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Everything posted by gunfun

  1. To continue, some mount to the nut with small screws. Others basically screw onto threads on the outside of the barrel nut, then use a small set screw to keep their orientation.
  2. In general, they mount to proprietary barrel nuts that come with them. There are a few standardized patterns of barrel nut mounting system, and wrenches that fit them. So for example, many of the free float forends out there use the YHM style. There are exceptions that mount to the upper receiver, which come with a special upper, or are even integral with the upper. IMO get M loc not keymod. Watch a video of installing a forend, and it will make sense. Also, the quality to price ratio has gone super super low. That means that you could get a $60 UTG pro forend that is IMO a lot nicer than a Knights Armament quad from 2013 or so which cost $450.
  3. You should not take away that 922r does not apply to you. It does. The statutory language is based on assembly, and the definitions for that statute consider inserting a magazine assembly. The fact that you are not the importer, or original manufacturer, or gun store doesn't get you off the hook. The law is stupid, but that is what the law is. (I am a lawyer, and I did the actual work to parse out the statutory application. I've also read court rulings which would bear on the matter. This is one of those few places where dropping credentials is legitimate.) p.s. CSSPecs makes excellent magazines, and is a very upright business. I wholeheartedly endorse their products. I also like the SGM mags.They've both got positives. The rock and lock gun has a Csspecs mag in it all the time, because it is completely trustworthy. The other one would have a CSSPecs mag if I had one that fit its magwell. Get a 3 pack of the steel 10 rounders, and you will be happy. If you feed this gun with quality ammo, such as #4 or #1 buckshot at 1325 FPS or faster, you have a superb home defense gun with near unbeatable fire power, and optimal ballistics.
  4. Here is the thread which explains in the simplest terms how 922r works for the end user.
  5. Ah crap. They deleted my signature links. Now I have to find the threads. Here is the hammer and trigger group profile thread
  6. Keep the legal concept of conversion for 922r purposes separate in your mind from where the pistol grip is mounted. People tend to call both things conversions and that gives confusion. Yours could be converted depending on what trigger group, puck and magazines you use It starts with 15 parts and you need to eliminate 5 of them to use any mag. So 3 are the trigger group, 1 can be the puck, another the pistol grip and you are golden. even with the goofy stock. It is worth doing it right, though, and moving the pistol grip to the correct place. It will make the balance point way better, and put all the controls where they ought to be in relation to your hand. It turns a pretty good gun into a well thought out gun. Moe's thread was good when it came out, but there are easier ways to do the things, with cleaner results now, due to more experimentation and parts support. If you do a proper restoration to a conventional layout, the big deal is to profile the hammer correctly so that you aren't adding drag to the operating system. It isn't hard if you are handy, and most of the "drop in" trigger groups have kinda crappy fit and geometry, because they are one "size kinda fits all" rather than "tailored to your gun." Follow the link in my signature line to save yourself some trouble.
  7. 1) 8", threaded for rem chokes. Keep the design of the gun simple. Don't add 10lbs of junk to it. Have a stock that is inline with a decently large footprint. Reliable is mostly a function of whether they moved the gas system properly. If they do it right, it will run any ammo above a certain energy threshold, which will be toward the hotter end of cheap trap loads and up. 2) Tromix, evlutions llc, lone star arms... 3) Get a trust, no exceptions. Just get a trust and get started. It isn't hard or scary. I do these as a pro, and you are a fool to do it without a trust. Sooner you start, the sooner you finish. Don't do a DIY trust or some random form your gunshop has on the counter. You aren't a lawyer, and neither is Jimbob at the shop. Some of the online ones are OKAY, but there are good reasons to have one made to order by someone who knows your situation, the law in your state, and does them all the time. If you get the gun before your stamp clears, some dealers with ranges will let you play with it at their range while you are waiting for the crown's permission to take it home. After you do your first stamp, you will realize that it was a nuisance to pay and weight, but it isn't as big a deal as most people think. 4) I would keep it and get an SBS. As for whether to commission or purchase- that's a question of cost and what's available at the time, and how specific you want your setup to be. Can't hurt to ask for quotes, and wait times. I see tromix builds show up surprisingly frequently from people with more money than attention span. They buy an expensive custom, shoot it a couple times, chuck it in the closet for a year or two, then get the itch for something new and hawk it for 1/3 of what it cost to get built. I would kind of expect that any builds with the red jacket label on them go for a discount now. Quality varied. Pretty good before show, not as consistent after. As with the answer on #3, sooner you start the sooner you finish. Custom orders often take a while, but that can be about even with the tax stamp wait time, so not as big a deal as you might think.
  8. gunfun

    80% ??

    And the right grade of steel, and the ability to precisely heat treat. ARs are easy to make because all the pressure bearing components are non serialized in USA. Those are the hard bits to make safely at home. Europe doesn't care about receivers for that reason, they care about barrels, bolts, trunions, etc. Hence serials on those parts in EU guns. Import AKs tend to have serials on both parts as a compromise to the US system. The S12 and derrivatives got approved using the system from Europe, without any thought towards making them easy to clone or remake. There's no money in that for the manufacturer, and no surplus market, since it was never a mass issued gun to turn into parts kits. Further, all the pockets in an 80% Ar receiver are vertical plunge operations. Everything tricky has already been done. An AK trunion has a lot of complex geometry that isn't just going to happen with a drill press. It would be pretty hard to measure without custom jigs, let alone make. Part of why ARs are clever, is that he borrowed johnson's clever thinking about how to make easier to machine precise lugs, then made it in two pieces, so that it is a single broaching operation which can be cleaned up on a lathe, then joined to the barrel, then heat treated as a unit.
  9. Yeah. That's great. I wish I was there with you. Have an awesome hunt.
  10. Thanks. I still want some kind of auto counter or dispenser that does it with a pull of a lever, like a powder measure drum.
  11. I usually go with this one, but I have used the berger calculator to double check too. https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi A lot of 1-10 precision guns use the FGMM 168 match king as their recommended load for factory bench marks. i.e. the LWRC REPR that I was playing with a few years ago. Arguably 168s are "over stabilized" in 1-10, but they seem to shoot well out of pretty much every 308, which is why they are so popular as a standard. I don't pretend to expertise, but I think of 165-170 in 308 /30-06 as the overlap load which is likely to give good results in a gun chosen at random, since they are right in the middle of the overlap between what the common twist rates are good at. I don't pretend to be a good precision shooter, though I am working to improve. My take on this topic is that for 308, if you are wanting the ability to shoot cheap ball, and also do some precision shooting, potentially using some of the ELD bullets, 1-10 will work well with the long range precision loads (& heavier hunting bullets), and well enough with the cheap stuff too.
  12. Wouldn't a 1-10 be better for that range? I thought 1-12 was more suited for 150-168grn
  13. Put a chunk of plastic pic rail on top of a baseball cap bill. Maybe a counterweight at the back.
  14. So a guy reading the article from TFB which basically recaps what I said months ago. It's a straight up ultra-vires action.
  15. Tulips are good once they get going. Look kinda crummy most of the year though, after the flowers are gone. Also you will need to know if your area freezes hard enough to kill the bulbs. Some places you can leave them out, other places you have to dig them up and stick them in the cellar for the winter.
  16. I always thought that using combination features would be a good idea. I.e. the berm would be the mound for a sweeper turn on a dirt bike track. The interior of the dirt bike track would be paintball course, with a fair amount of the jumps doing double duty as cover. The pond idea is nice, and would cut down on the area you need to brush hog. Unless you are in mosquito country. Perhaps some butterfly bushes to make it smell nice? I could also see wind break trees being a good idea. Also shade trees for wherever your bench/ firing line is. I agree with evl, that you don't want to add future ongoing chores, so only put in stuff that basically takes care of itself.
  17. I think that would be helpful. They aren't infallible, as what happens is the spammers will have a human teach their bots the answer, but they do weed out the less sophisticated spambots. Suggestion: What end of this picture is facing you? 1) muzzle 2) butt
  18. 1, "knock down power" is a very subjective and debatable thing. 2 for steel plates, there's muzzle velocity, shot weight, and pattern density. If any of those is lower, the plate is less likely to fall. If any is higher, then more likely. 3 a 19.5" barrel is going to be maybe 300 FPS lower than a 26" barrel with most light ammo. That's just a gunpowder thing. The action doesn't use enough gas to make a difference in velocity, and the shell is shucked after the shot is out of the barrel, so it also doesn't affect velocity there either. If you want more velocity, choose a spicier shell. It's that easy. You may prefer more mass though, so keep reading. 4. Chokes aren't all the same. Pattern yours https://www.chuckhawks.com/pattern_shotgun.htm You might have a wider pattern, and it might be offset from where you think you are aiming. Only way to know is to do the work and know. You haven't said what choke you are using, but there are a few adapters out there that let you have an assortment of either rem chokes or winchokes. I like the DPH choke adapter with full winchoke, but your application might want something tighter or looser. It's the combo of specific ammo and specific choke at the range you plan to shoot. 5. Easy fix is to try a couple of chokes that give you a reasonably dense pattern at the ranges you plan to shoot. Then chose a load with a little more pellets at about the same velocity. If you use 1 1 /4 oz loads at 1200 FPS, you will have a pretty good smack, and still less recoil than a lot of the other semi autos, and way less than the pumpers.
  19. If the bolt was upside down and /or grit held the firing pin in the forward position, it could have either slam fired on chambering, or fired without the lugs engaged?
  20. gunfun

    Howitzer70 brake

    First I have heard of it. I can say from the pictures that it isn't optimized for 12 Ga, but would probably do a little bit. If you look at the brake testing done by me, by Fitty, and Vadim, and T&N.... You notice that nearly all the gas vectoring stuff happens in the first inch past the muzzle. Lots of gills close together does the most After that inch, everything is working with so little gas pressure that it may as well not be there.
  21. The AK market is smaller: It used to be the tightwads, and those who had a mythical idealized view of Russian simplicity/durability/reliability. That latter group is very traditional, and posts stupid "nyet rifle is fine..." at EVERY improvement. Now ARs are way cheaper than AKs, and so the tightwads are gone. That leaves the traditionalists. You don't wow that crowd, you sell them old ideas done as conventionally as possible. (Or convince them that the Romy M10 with tapco furniture is the traditional formula because they don't know better.) The AK-103 has been around long enough to be "traditional", but is still seen as "High end". That justifies the higher cost of an american made AK.
  22. I was referring to CMMG's radial delayed AR bolt patent for PCC.
  23. There is a small difference. Blue printing is making the whole receiver precisely conform to the dimensions as claimed in the drawings. Since you can't add material, this is generally at the small end of the dimensional tolerance allowed. Truing would be a part of that, but not necessarily the whole thing. Generally truing means getting something straight or square. In the case of rifle truing, that's generally getting the barrel on axis with the reciever, and making sure it is fully supported by contact with all the bearing surfaces, which are also either concentric or perpendicular to the line of the bore. Usually also the bolt face and lugs. So you could get the areas that matter, and ignore the other spots. Possibly supporting contact with crooked metal by inletting the stock to fit, or using glass filled epoxy to match whatever irregular shape it happens to be.
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