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gunfun

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Everything posted by gunfun

  1. gunfun

    Kalashnikov USA finally shipping Saiga 12

    So run it on setting #2. It isn't about the type of shot, it is about the energy level of the shell. If it won't run it on the restricted setting, open the restriction up.
  2. They are roughly the 4th company to try something like this. I bet it is still picky about which 2.75 shells it takes.
  3. gunfun

    Kalashnikov USA finally shipping Saiga 12

    A while back I helped a guy tech a problem on the other forum, and we conclusively determined that the bad factor was out of spec Federal Flite control LE 9 pellet OOB. i.e. the shells most people would call most appropriate for "serious use". It's been a couple years at least, but IIRC, both the head diameter, the rim thickness and the rim diameter were significantly off from the largest of any fired or unfired hulls I could find of any brand. And before someone asks what I mean by "significantly off" - I don't remember, but I think it was pushing 1/16" of an inch larger than the largest shell I could find. The shells hung up in a pump feed tube. So we had an informal survey and several people found that their fed shells had odd oversize rounds here and there, but none as bad as the OP's. I think any brand can do this, and it's part of the reason why I dry cycle the whole mag of shells for anything that I plan on keeping loaded in the gun for HD.
  4. gunfun

    Clone comparison

    This will be worth following for sure! If you haven't done so, this would probably be a good time to mic various dimensions of parts that take pressure or impact to be able to measure any deformation. It might be worth putting a couple punch marks or scribes in to measure from on some of the wonkier shapes on the bolt head, and trunion.
  5. Ditto. My wife's work week is currently offset. So I tend to do half days on mondays or tuesdays (her weekend) and make up for it on saturday afternoon. A weekday with her is a lot more fun than a weekend. When I was in high school, my stepmother was an avid skiier with thursdays off. I would do my schoolwork ahead and go ski with her on a regular basis, not having to share the hill or waste time waiting in line at all. And they were discounted. It made us into snow snobs. Midweek weekends work great for play. Not so much for playing with friends though.
  6. Sounds great. I would love a break from being a small business owner. It's been very tempting lately to be an employee with fixed paycheck and fixed hours/ hours off. My wife would feel a lot better about that too.
  7. gunfun

    Short shell reloads

    Glad to help. I think the FGM hull is the best plastic, but the "mid" brass might have a little more drag than the REM STS/Nitro style low brass. I think those might be what I would use for your project. Cut them down. IIRC those survive the most loadings for the people inclined to waste their time wearing out shells. That would mean that they are probably also most resistant to black powder scorching, and therefore most likely to save you trimming operations. Plus the gold color of the STS flavor kinda looks like the traditional brass, so that fits your theme a little better.
  8. gunfun

    Short shell reloads

    Haven't done it personally, but read up on it. I assume SASS? I've heard the same is true for the original winchester 1895 lever action shotguns. They want hulls that are a shade short. You are giving up the pattern benefits of the wad, unless you aren't going full short. That's my suggestion. There is actual load data for 2 5/8" British shotshells. i.e. these https://www.aerostaroutdoors /product/f2-subsound-12-gauge-1oz-7-5shot-1082fps-250-rounds/ (Link broken on purpose, just in case a forum vendor sells something similar.) Also, if you base your load off of standard AA12 data, but then use the claybuster clone of the winchester red wad, you are probably in the right neighborhood. It's basically the same wad, but with a shorter leg section. How much would you have to chop off to get your clean shucking? That's the length I would go for. Also, probably cleaner with a straight wall hull, as much as I like the gun club hull for most things. You could get some of the smooth style plastic federal gold medal hulls and probably get enough loads out of them to justify the effort in cutting down. Plus really good crimps. Otherwise, maybe work up a soft load from cheddite or fiochi hulls?
  9. gunfun

    i get to try slugs

    Looks like that's .822 ounces 7/8 is 0.875, so I think they ended up at 9 pellets for two reasons. One is that #1 buck stacks in layers of 3 in a 20 ga hull, and 9 is the multiple that comes in just under 7/8 oz. So that's just over 3 dram equivalent. Pretty hot for a 20 ga round.
  10. gunfun

    i get to try slugs

    I forget how much each #1 buck pellet weighs, but something tells me that 9 of them probably come out to 1 oz... They are ~40 grains each. Of course that's assuming they are the actual size as labeled. Remington shot is notorious for being smaller than what it says on the tin.
  11. gunfun

    i get to try slugs

    So, compare the ammo that you've bought and put it on that chart. Then only buy ammo that falls to the right of the weakest shells which would function 100%.
  12. gunfun

    i get to try slugs

    Fastang, you need to look at both the velocity and the weight. Just velocity isn't enough. Particularly since 20 ga slugs can get very light. A lot of them are saboted or are lighter slugs designed to get a flatter trajectory for East coast deer hunting zones which don't allow rifles. There's a good chance a lot of them are low overall energy. I don't know the function factor for the S20, but you are going to need to know both of those to get to the muzzle engergy / dram equivalent number for your gun. Basically you will need to learn the minimum DR eq that your gun runs at and buy or make ammo over that threshold. Some stuff near the bottom of your threshold might be a little under it's printed numbers and not run, so if you are right on the bleeding edge, you are gambling. Based on your other posts, it looks like your gun probably starts out at ~2 /38 dr eq
  13. gunfun

    i get to try slugs

    Reloading is worthwhile, but I think you are incorrect about brass hulls being the ticket. As a general rule, the federal gold medal hulls are really good, as are the Remngton STS. STS are the least hassle, and have the advantage that gun club hulls are nearly as good and load to the same data and are everywhere for free. High brass is more of a failure point than a benefit, and has nothing to do with the pressure limits of the hull if it is any modern design. The Federal Gold metal are the highest pressure rated hulls, with the STS close second - at least in 12 ga. The STS is low brass, and the FGM is kinda medium low. High brass hulls are often paper basewad style and tend to actually have lower pressure ratings, as well as the potential for defects that can't be observed on inspection.
  14. I'm here a few times a week. However, there aren't always new projects or DIY things that snag my interest. Lately, I spend more time collaborating on youtube and through the reloader's network. I've also kinda been looking at patreon for keeping connected with people. You can follow people even without crossing the paywall. Mostly, I want the ability to filter and prioritize. I want to help new people, but also tune out the personal squabbles and inevitable political tinfoil, and general lechery that seems to accumulate around gun stuff. The ratio here has gotten slim, but there are still a few poeple whose projects and opinions I respect a lot.
  15. Maybe the thing for them to do is sell it as a kit to slap on your US made KUSA K12...
  16. gunfun

    S 12 ready conditions

    post script. There are a lot of right ways to do things, and a much smaller number of wrong ways. You can do your own, even if it isn't what I think is optimal. However, I do strongly suggest that you have a consistent system. By that I mean, have a constant policy about the condition of your guns. You should never wonder if a particular gun is loaded. My policy is that any gun not in the safe or a case is ready to go, and any gun in a case or safe is empty. You might do the opposite, or only have guns on your person or at your bedside ready.... Whatever your system, stick to it.
  17. gunfun

    S 12 ready conditions

    I keep mine fully loaded, with the safety on. There's no valid reason to leave an empty chamber with good ammo. i.e. Federal or hornady #4 buck. That leaves the operation with the most opportunity for error already done. The fabled deformed top round is mostly that. You can reproduce it with soft enough ammo with 00 buck or larger in a brand that uses no buffer or shotcup. At that point, I think you are going out of your way to have a bad time. I was able to get some S&B 15 pellet 00b to get some noticeable dents in the hull between the pellets over about a year of chambering it most every day. I shot all that ammo, and a couple did feed slugishly or need a little help to go fully into battery. They looked pretty rough just from sheer # of times they had been cycled. The main issue though is that those are soft hull with a roll crimp that can get kinda bent. Also the extractor will eventually chew up the brass. With common as dirt federal field load #4 B, #1 B or fancier stuff with flite control or Versatite wads, you just aren't going to have a problem. See previous posts elsewhere in this forum in which I tried to make a worst case scenario for shell deformation, having a gun stored next to the water heater with a topped of 8 round mag for max spring pressure, which I loaded on a closed bolt almost every weekend for 8 months plus (or whatever period of time my oldest post on the topic says.) After a long time of that, I took it that way to the range, and it ran the whole mag without issue. "Cruiser Ready" is a bad concept. It doesn't apply to this platform, and shouldn't be used in others. It's a dumb idea for your carry pistol to carry on an empty chamber, and the same considerations apply. If you disagree, please send your hatemail on the back of a $50 bill to ....
  18. gunfun

    Vepr-12 Drum, What should have been...

    For others here, I would worry that they might start posting pictures even if no one asked the questions.
  19. gunfun

    Vepr-12 Drum, What should have been...

    You know with some of the people here, I would be asking questions if they used a phrase like "My mom and girlfriend"....
  20. gunfun

    Muzzle Brake: possible DIY?

    The only steel brakes I hear of failures with are those amazon/ebay ones that are low quality cast steel copies of expensive brakes. i.e. there are a lot of crummy copies of the old Tromix shark brakes, that actually do break from time to time, and make the tromix people mad as can be when people try to submit them for warranty.
  21. Oh, the other thing about the festiva, was it was night and day in feel and performance, and economy at some undefined weight threshold. I could have a passenger or two, and it was the same as always. If I had my dad in there, who is a big guy, the thing was just struggling, and it was like a completely different car.
  22. I'm nothing special. I don't know much about the TDI, but I was impressed. feel free to be skeptical, I'm just reporting what I found on the trips I used it on. I enjoyed the car and was sad to see it die. As for the festiva, they came in with several different engines, and I had whichever the good one was with a 5 speed. We had a couple others in the family which were not as good, and one which was the same. The autos were garbage. I did a test driving for about a month and a half using 87 gas from arco, and ditto from the chevron which was at the time 10 cents more a gallon even. My cost per mile was identical, but the car ran way better on the chevron. I tried to not change my driving habits. So I do think fuel makes a big difference with some cars. I was a more economical driver then than I am now, but it really was a good car for me. Most of my cars since have been around 30-32 mpg most of the time. The car that really surprised me was driving a late model very borrowed loaded outback and getting 36+ mpg per the display while going over mountain passes and being kinda aggressive. I had noted mileage, and when I did the math for the trip it came out exactly what the display claimed. Older versions of the same car with less refined transmissions were much cruder and get rather dismal economy. I still don't see how they managed to get that much mpg out of such a heavy rig.
  23. reliable economy is a very freeing feature. Most of my friends got 4wd suvs for the feeling of being down for adventure. I always had econo boxes. My first car was even a ford festiva which was a better car than you would think. 55/45 mpg in a car you could afford that lasts for 450k miles and isn't made of lithium. then a crappy saturn, and then a protege 5 speed which I still have and like. It is more like 30-32 MPG most of the time, but if I am going over mountian roads at about 60, even if the car is working hard, my mpg goes closer to 42. It's getting pretty shabby due to the interfaces with antler bearing quadropeds screwing up the looks and the rear dampers are gone from having some very fat people in the back going too fast down Forrest service roads. At this point it would be dumb to dump a lot of cash into it, but it has been a great car for me. My friends always wanted to do road trips, then debated about pooling money for gas for their explorer or trailblazer or whatever. "We can go to X for the weekend, if we get another person to cram in, the gas will be $35 each..." I'd say, "let's just go. We'll take my car, and the gas will be under $35 round trip. Jump in and don't worry about chipping in on gas." economy is freedom to do what you want as often as you want. So is having a car that you don't mind getting a scratch on. I think my next car is likely to be a subaru hatch, or wagon, so I won't be as economical, but most of the miles go on two wheels the last few years anyway.
  24. gunfun

    Muzzle Brake: possible DIY?

    have your i.d. Close to bore diameter. Slots or holes work, but it's a matter of surface area that is perpendicular or more aggresive to bore, which is exposed to high pressure gasses. Pressure drops off rapidly after the first port or two. So those ports need to be designed to do the most work. Sometimes I see brakes with a few holes and then big ol slots, which is backward. A few slots close together, with enough meat in the remaining material to take the thrust of the gasses they are turning will do more than a lot of holes. My preference is angled gills and enclosed bottom. Gills need to leave stock that is somewhere around 3/16" thick between them. Also you are basically making a high pressure whistle. The shape of the vents will affect the tone, but I don't know how to predict what a less obnoxious design would be. You will probably see gas cutting and wear on the i.d. where it is doing the most work. Cut the same thing in steel, and it will do fine. People kind of make these into super high tech magic, but there are plenty of chineseum brakes that do fine in mystery steel at ~$20 each. Be sure to have clean threads with full engagement. Every bit of recoil the brake absorbs is basically thrust tugging on the end of your barrel. shallow thread engagement is a great way to strip the threading on the barrel. It needs to be solidly enough mounted that you would trust repeated slide hammer blows to never move it.
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