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Thanks, after viewing that I'm even more perplexed at what could be causing the gritty return.

While mine is a removable barrel, I'm wondering if it is necessary to do so for just trigger work.

I wonder if you can work the trigger with the face plate off with out stuff flying out at you.It would be

much easier to pinpoint the problem while viewing the mechanism  internals in action.

Kind of funny that a revolver in all of it's simplistic character, has waaay more parts than your average auto.

Edited by SHOTGUN MESSIAH
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There should be no need to remove the barrel in order to work on the trigger. Remove the sideplate, place your hand over the everything, or place it all into a ziplock gallon sized bag, and mess with the trigger and hammer. Cock it, decock it, squeeze it on double action, etc. From the Taurus and S&W revolvers I've toyed with, nothing "should" come flying out, but doesn't mean it won't. Just be prepared for it if it does. After making sure everything will stay put, then find the culprit to your gritty return. Just keep an eye on everything as you work on it. Just because something didn't fly out the first few times, doesn't mean it couldn't at a later time. It's also a very good idea to watch as many videos on disassembly/reassembly of something as you can find beforehand. If that's not possible, just take your time, and learn how everything works. Keep an eye on the small stuff, what actuates what, etc. If it's an older firearm, my guess is that it just needs a good once through, but a burr is just as likely. Good luck.

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Ziploc is a good idea. I probably will remember that just after the next time I launch a small spring into a pocket dimension.

 

Done that enough times... Somehow, though, I've been very lucky in finding even the smallest parts (projectiles).

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