Gothiq1

I don't care much for hip shooting, not even with my full autos. agreed, i can do it pretty well but i reserve it for wowing friends at the gun pit. if you dont have the 1/2 sec it takes to shoulder your weapon your dead anyway in my OP. thats why NO special ops teams train in hip fire

IM pretty sure it should go in all the way till it stops. then back out to setting 2 to have all your gas ports exposed.. (provided you gun has no blocked gas ports. do a forum search on this) then rotate it to setting 1 from setting 2. they should not be rotatated a full turn either way. setting 2 is all ports for low power stuff and setting 1 is for high power, you may have had probs because of gas leaks beacuse you unthreaded the plug too much and gas was getting by the few threads that were still engaged

NP bud, if you have any other Qs shoot me an email , i have my S-12 eating any ammo i feed it including Blackpowder loads. I work for Thompson Center Arms as a welder so i have ALOT of help to call on when i work on my firearms that goes for any other forum member too..

since the instructions say vote and if i vote no it says to exagerate i will My plasma Rifle in the 40 watt range is far superior to the S-12 as is my helmet mounted minigun AND my Railgun built into my watch. But all of these are factory stock if i was talking custom weapons.. well.. i could go on for minutes!

If your reqading this thread, go HERE: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=42564 for the actual HOW - TO

OK first let me say the quality you get out of this is based on the effort you put in. i used any old screws i had lying around but you can get nice little set screws and make this look pretty and almost invisible Also I TAKE NO RESPONSIBLITY for people who damage their firearm. ive done my best to add everything including warnings, but remember folks, unless your a welder like me you CANT put the metal back once you remove it. If your nervouse or unsure take it to someone you trust who CAN do this work properly! TAKE YOUR TIME! Measure once, twice, three times, THEN drill and cut!

ok How - To is almost done, got the pics done and am working through the step by step so as to eliminate mistakes and any confusion pictures are a bit blurry cause my camara sucks (money saved on cheap ass digicam goes into ammo budget ) but here's a video showing how nice the new trigger works How-to set to be posted by EST late ish 10pm or so on saturday the 18th ABSOLUTE date by 19th i want it to be easy to understand and not cause anyone to damage their gun

Entirely getting rid of the slop is pretty impressive. In your opinion, how do you feel it compares to a regular AK FCG? I think a lot of people could benefit from your "How-To", as I've seen numerous posts of "I don't want to convert.....but how can I improve the trigger pull?" over the years. 1 i SWEAR ill post the how to this weekend! i only have a few mins each workday to hit the forum, hence my replies but still no how to LOL 2 ok to answer your Q, IMHO the AK trigger is not a bad set up, its merely has too much travel before sear let off. that plus rough metal bearing on

MY AA drum works fine. All my mags that worked fine in the first place still work fine, 99% of the modding i did to my gun i did before the AA came in the mail and i did it to get the gun to work with cheap ammo as per the forum members experience and suggestions. all i did for the drum is shave approx 1/16 off the mag catch. which IMHO makes more sense then shaving weak plastic or aluminum mag tabs. The steel mag catch isnt going to be worn out by interfacing plastic mags or an aluminum drum but the reverse is certainly true. thats my 2c worth, BUT the MD drum is by far cheaper and ligh

I'd be very interested in a 'pics and a "How-To"'. Thanks! Later... Brewster... this weekend (7/18-7/19) i will post the pics and organize a step by step for everyone. tools needed are a hand drill, dremil tool or griding wheel or hand file and a hand tap. takes 20-45 mins depending on the tools you have BTW 1 half of the procedure can be used on stock AK FCGs to improve the trigger pull i developed it back in the day when i was a major AK head, haveing since moved on to the FAL im glad my old trick still works (not dissin the AK just wanted a bigger bullet and a butter smoo

its not a matter of being exempted we all know they will do what they will do. BUT as in the clinton ban many areas that were freindly or at least toloerant of "military looking" firearms became down right hostile to them once the clinton ban came into effect. PDs that could care less what you were shooting at the range suddenly crawled all up in your ass if you had anything with a pistol grip and a big magazine sticking out. The OTHER reason i didnt convert was simply by leaving the FGC where it was it forces more weight to be forward of the balance point between my hands and IMHO helps cont

The Military Channel has run a special on this gun, the one with that Mack guy that used to be a navy SEAL. Firepower? maybe..not sure of the show name. Lots of footage of the thing firing and looks impressive UNLESS you look carefully and see the footage was edited to hide at least 2 jams. 1 while mack is shooting FA and he stops you can see three rounds still in the drum through the clear back of the drum mag. and very briefly the bolt half closed on another shell, bofore the camara cuts to a scene of him holding the gun in one hand and the empty drum in the other, as if he'd emptied it th

I have with 2 set screws and about 20 minutes time removed all over travel and slop from the stock config Saiga trigger group if there is any interest ill post pics and a "How-To" i myself wanted, if the worst happens, to be able to make my saiga go back to looking as inoffensive and "vanilla" as possible. not so easy after a convert job to "ak" style trigger and furniture sometimes hiding in plain sight is the only way to go in these uncertain obama-esque times.

i thought it might be a good idea to list what i'd done to the gun. For those who dislike link surfing or dont like you tube etc Mods include: 1)top 2 gas ports(of 3) enlarged to .0925. 2) Gas Puck turned down to fit into gas piston tube at one end. 3)Lower bolt face relieved and polished to allow loading of magazine on a closed bolt. 4)trigger slop and over travel eliminated by set screws 5) tapco interfuse M4 style stock. All Mods and gunsmithing done by me. once i have the last few odds n sods for it ill post a pic, in the pic section. Working for a gun company has

for what its worth i found my S12 to work best with 7 1/2 shot as the smallest size, even though the load weight and powder charges are the same, no 8 shot FTEs more often so i stick to 7 1/2 or larger when shooting low brass, havent found a high brass load it wont eat including cowboy black powder loads. my shotgun has been modded according to many of the posts here about reliablility.