cobravenom39

I ordered the Kvar fixed and quickly returned it based on fit and finish. I ended up going with the T6 collapsible stock and it feels far superior. I don't know why everyone knocks Tapco. US made, great customer support and good fit/finish for the money.

This is the Saiga specific one.... I had to wait a month and a half to get it, though. It's held in place with set screws on the gas tube. I haven't shot it yet, but it feels ULTRA sturdy and it's doesn't wiggle at all.

I love mine. I just installed it yesterday. It's the Saiga Specific and it's held in with set screws on the tube.

I wanted my first one to be "tacticool" and then the next one (a 5.45)will wear the classic furniture.

Any more FSB's and muzzle breaks for sale.

I'd like to know, too. I just cut the shroud off and no threads. I'm confused about what to order. If I order the 74 style from Dinzag, which one do I order if I cut off 5/8 of the shroud? How do I know that the break will be orientated correctly to provide downward thrust at the muzzle? Crush washers or what? Thanks guys.

Please do not purchase that. It is a particular type of design used by chinese red dots and they are worthless. It WILL NOT HOLD zero for a significant time period. If you buy that, you're just adding $75 dollars to the cost of an aimpoint or Eotech.

only if you opted for the "modified" one. I got the modified one and I would highly recommend grinding down G2 and installing the BHO while the guns apart. It's not THAT difficult and then you can use it on all ranges.

Are you facing the target with your shoulders square? Or do you have your shoulders at a 45 degree angle from the target with only the lower part of the buttstock touching your shoulder? I'm 6'1 200 lbs with pretty long arms and the Warsaw buttstock is fine for me.

I'm going to add some loc-tite to the bullet guide screw and notched the barrel so I could get the screw through the top of the handguard retainer. Is there a prevention fix for the spring? You could file down your FTG and reinstall the BHO. I know nothing about gunsmithing or converting and I figured it out in an hour or so.

I'll give you a bought of confidence about Tapco hardware. I don't know the handguard but I bought the T6 collapsible stock and saw handgrip and they are AWESOME. I'm glad I didn't spend the extra money on the KVar overpriced nonsense. Plus all the Tapco stuff is warranted for life.

I have NO EXPERIENCE WITH GUNS and just got done doing my conversion and included the BHO, which some say is very hard to do. I read tons of threads and took my time and it went soooo smoothly. It was AWESOME now I know everything about the gun. BTW THANK EACH AND EVERYONE OF YOU FROM DISDAINING THE SAIGA FURNITURE AND PUSHING THE FULL CONVERSION!!!! Oh and another BTW, why does everyone hate Tapco? I installed their six pos stock and grip and it's tight and feels ultra sturdy.

I really like and actually just ordered a Midwest Industries one made specifically for the Saiga. This way I don't have to change anything out. Can't beat it for $130. It's about a month out on backorder, though.

Thanks for the comp! I've had BRD for a while, but now I'm addicted to AKs

The Midwest industries Dark Earth Quad rail and Aimpoint m2 are already ordered and on the way. Thanks for all your help, guys! BIG thanks to Craig at Carolina Shooter Supply. That poor guy must have NO life. Every email I sent him (and I sent a lot of questions) was responded to within minutes. Even on Sunday. His prices are GREAT and received within two days!

I just stripped off the sporting plate and bought some high temp paint to touch up JUST the bare section by the trigger. My question is, if I heat it up in my oven to 450 after painting the bare metal, will this present any problem on any parts of the rifle? Will the OTHER paint from the Factory ignite? I took off all the furniture, so I have nothing else to worry about, right?

I JB welded the screw in instead of locktite it's never coming out . Now this man has a future in politics ) There are so many other things so much more likely to go wrong that its just not funny. Over charged rounds, incorrectly inserted primers(Look as you load mags), barrel obstructions, Bill Cheney shooting you first, etc. My thoughts exactly. I'm getting ready to do my guide, and I think i'm gonna use a tad bit of jb weld on the guide to put it in the right spot. Then I'll drill and tap with the bullet guide as a "guide." I'll use some jb weld as loctite on the screw.

Hi, If I go with an Ulitmak gas tube/mount and go with a DPH Tri-Rail will I need any other parts? Is this a good combo, or is there somthing else that will work better. Does the Ultimak count as a compliance part since it replaces the gas tube? Thanks Guys!

Is this code still working?

Have you cut off the shroud?

I just got the rifle and I'm trying to figure it out. Do I file the part on the lower part of the receiver or the end of the spring loaded latch? I'm really confused.

How do I know if I have a threaded barrel. I can't see under the FSB but it looks like the barrel is tapered inward under the FSB shroud, so I think it might be threaded. I just bought it and it looks like it was just recently made. Thanks, Guys

Very nice! I have some questions, though. what's holding on the break? Loctite. What is the internal receiving block used for, is it for the stock you are running? Finally, are you using the BHO? If so, what did you have to do?

Thanks all of you guys for the replies. I feel way more confident now.

Thanks for the reply and the how-to. Not to sound like a dildo, but does anyone have a better pic. I don't have my Saiga yet and I'm trying to familiarize myself with it.