macaholic

The gunclub is good as any. Personaly, I don't realy see any differance in any of the brands listed. They all run the same and produce the same fouling. My latest experience has been fouling on the gas puck of my Saiga-12 K. I have a 16" barrel with four port holes. I took it to the range and ran 150 rounds of three different brands of low brass bird shot and when I got home to clean it, I noticed that there was a plastic waifer formed in a half moon in between the gas plug and the gas puck. Yeah, the fouling from the burnt powder hardened into some form of plasic looking sruff that glued the

I shot my Saiga-12 for the first time after getting the barrel cut to 16" SBS on form 1. I'm happy to say that the gun functioned without failure on three different brands of low brass bird shot, but when I got home, I noticed that I could not remove the gas regulator screw. Long story short, after working the gas regulator loose, I noticed some plastic looking gunk formed in between the gas puck and the gas regulator. I could not move the gas puck and had to pry this plastic looking crap out with a small screw driver. I ran about 150 rounds of 2-3/4' bird shot. The three brands were Remington

You can't go wrong with an Arsenal. I'm impressed with how faithful they adhere to the original specs. It would be nice to see them start doing factory correct conversions on the Saiga-12's as well.

At this point, the NRA should file suit to repeal the whole 922R piece of sh%t legeslation.

I can't seem to get my photos to copy and paste on a thread for my new Saiga-12. I want to post pix but I can't get it to work. I have a new Sony digital camera so it's not out dated. I did get one picture to copy and paste, but I could'nt enlarge the photo without distorting the demensions. I'm not technilogically saavy with computers or digital cameras. Is there an instructional section on this site? HELLLPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!

After all has been said and done, I decided to forget about Molly, Guncoat or Dura Coat, and sprayed the reciever in flat black laquer from Ace hardware. I can't believe how well this paint matches the original finish. It's damned near perfect in color and texture. I went this route for now, because I may send this gun to CGW to get the barrel cut to 16" like the one Tom is working on presently. I will wait untill the gun comes back from CGW and if all is well, I will do the stock and pistol grip conversion and maybe refinish them both in Dura Coat. Or, I may simply stay with the Laquer in f

I plan to use rivets on the side holes of my other Saiga-12 when it ever gets back to me from CGW. It's been four months now and I'm begining to get a little worried. I sent it in to get the barrel cut to 16" and the reciever engraved as me for the manufacture on the Form 1. I hope everything is okay. Anyway, I don't plan to go through the same pain in the ass fileing and grinding like my first Saiga-12, but I do plan to MIG weld the two holes on the bottom of the reciever. They are easier to fill completely because I have access from the inside as well as the outside of the reciever. I guess

Here are some videos of the March 2011 subgun/shotgun match. The first shooter is Andy who is currently the nations top subgun competetor and has two consecutive national top gun awards at Knob Kreek. Check out the Saiga-12 action. http://bullethose.co...86&p=1797#p1797

I srtipped the gun down after last weeks subgun/shotgun match, and took it to a cetified welder to have the four side holes TIG welded. After some hours of the ussual fileing and grinding the welds are perfect. now I have to respray the reciever. I will use flat black laquer from Ace hardware a second time now. I can't believe how good this finish matches the trunion and barrel. It's damned near perfect. You can see the gun on a video at my Florida subgun match thread.

Years ago a friend of mine had a friend in the businees with an old 1928 war time Tommy that came back from WWII. It was one of the guns on the lend lease program. Story short, we were all at the range one day with some of our toys, and I got to shoot this vintage piece of old world war weaponry. I'll never forget the looks of that old beauty with the nicks and dings from being in action. It was a pleasure to shoot as well. Nothing beats the old Thompson, there's just something magical about it. We have at least one competetor that shoots one just like I described at our monthly subgun matche

Yeah that is what I want to do is to shoot up a ton of ammo pay them $20.00 to shoot, and get a plastic trophy.... LOL no thanks, when they get a prize of at least $5000.00 please let me know..... Well I guess you'll just have to show'em how at Knob Creek.

Without the Blish lugs(friction delay system) on the bolt a semi-auto Thompson bolt converted to full auto is fast as hell. By the way a full auto Thompson is very controllable for an open bolt machinegun because of it's weight. I like the vid on your new Arsenal AK. I'm one of those pain in the ass traditionalists who believes you should leave it alone and screw all the hip, slick and cool daddyo gadjets. Personally, I like the Arsenal AK's the best because of thier fathfull adhearance to the factory specs, thats why they make the best AK money can buy from an American factory.

Here are a few videos from last weeks steel match and the Feb 2011 Miami Vice shoot at Port Malabar.

That's it... there, there now... let it all out... don't hold back like that... tell us how you really feel. Looks like I hit the nail on the head!

This is the trigger guard I used on my first Saiga 12 conversion. It almost replicates the original but not exactly. I made an exact copy from an original AK 47 TG, but it was about six hours work. Yeah, alot of fileing and grinding which I fu*king hate to do. Anyway, I like this TG from AKbuilder and I also like the screw build rather than rivets. I will probably use this same TG assembly on my other Saiga 12 when I get it back from CGW with a 16" barrel. I agree that this trigger gard with a black polymer AK 74 stock and PG is the closest combo you can get just shy of the original fom the

I just got back from the Ft. Lauderdale gun show and the greed fest is in full swing just like the gun dealer scumbags wanted. I swear I hate every greedy fu*k in the firearms sales industry. I realy don't know who's worse, the scumbag liberal left or the piece of sh%t gun industry ass cracks who just want to jack the price at the nearest whisper of any kind of gun ban. Saiga 12's have dried up. I saw a new one with LRBHO for $895.00 and a friend of mine bought one of the H08 series brand new for seven and change. Of course, all the Saiga 12 butcher masters are telling everyone that the've b

Sinse I last posted on this thread, I've done a complete conversion on this gun, and it runs like a scolded hound dog. The only problem I've encountered, and I knew I would, was the welding of the holes on the sides of the reciever. For the most part, it appears as though I did a solid job on the welds, in the sense that they are solid and penetrated completely. However, I can see a slight hairline half moon on a couple of them. I tested them with liquid to see if it would seep through and the other side stayed dry, so it looks as though the welds filled the holes all the way. I plan to use D

When you grind the weld down flush, can you see an outline of one side of the hole on any of your welds?

I do it the same way with a die grinder then I file down flush with a fine machinest file. The only problem I have is the weld not filling the hole completely. When I lay the bead down, it covers the hole but when I get the weld filed down flush, I can almost always see a hair line of the other half of the hole. I am using a Miller MIG welder on #2 setting so I believe the heat is high enough. I don't want to burn a bigger hole due to too high a heat setting. I just got finished with my first Saiga-12 conversion and I chose to weld the holes on the sides of the reciever. It was every bit the p

I saw a tool on aktools .com called a rivet jaw. Does anyone know if this tool can be used to install rivets in the trigger holes of the Saiga-12, rather than welding them and going through all that F%#CKING BULLSHIT filing and grinding?

I want to install a new FCG in my saiga 12 . I like the original FCG but the trigger has been ground off . I have seen an FCG offered by Carilina shooters supply that's similar to the original, but my question is, do I have to do any monkeying around as far as grinding anything down. My Saiga 12 is an SBS so I dont realy care about useing the american made parts. However, I would like a replacement FCG that works and goes in exactly like the original, if any exist. HELP!!!!

Yeah, that's what Tom at CGW said, but after he sent my other Saiga-12 back from warrantee, it ran 1oz low brass no problem. I have a friend who has a bone dry Saiga-12 that runs 1oz bird shot as well. The only reason it's an issue, is that none of the Wall Marts in my area carry the bulk packs of 1 1/8 loads, they only carry the Remington 1oz loads. So I have to be able to shoot whats readily available. Anyway, so long as it will shoot the 1oz bird shot, I'll be very happy.

It's a three port just like my other one. It's also one of the H09 series which is supposed to be in the new batch that had the port hole problem corrected. I got that bit of info from Vickey at CGW the day I bought it. Because my first Saiga-12 was a Vodka special that went in for warrantee, and I wanted to know if I would have to repeat that morbid opera with this one. Anyway, I hope this one is doing what it's supposed to, because I plan to run it in tomarros subgun match. Like I said though, it seemed to run better as each mag went through it. The very first mag I ran was lobbing the empti

I puchased my second Saiga-12 this week from a friends gunshop. I ran about three boxes of low brass on #2 setting and I had one FTE at the very beginning of the first box. I ran two boxes of 1oz 8 shot, and one box of 1 1/8 7 1/2 shot. The gun seemed to run better and better as it began throwing the brass about three to five feet from the ejection port. I have heard from some folks that these guns require some break in period. I would like to hear some personal experience, any feed back would be appreaciated.