Remontti

I tried bigger hammer and even bigger hammer but they did not help. I used saw to cut the sight as you would do to remove the sight. Instead of cutting it straight to the bottom, I cut it to half way. Then tried to hammer it again, little bit of cutting and more hammering... and success! The sight is now movable, but still tight.. I wanted to use original sight because getting U.S made parts to Europe can be costly and troublesome.

I'm trying to adjust original Iron sights on my 12K, because slugs are going 50cm to the right at 25m. I can't get the rear sight to move with hammer and punch. I have read that they can be real pain to move. Is the rear sight just real tight fitting or is there some kind of glue applied? Any tips on adjusting the sight other than Dremeling it out and replacing with 3rd party sights?

I've been following this forum for a while. I never posted picture of my Saiga, but here it is. Pretty much factory configuration. Foregrip has been changed and gas ports has been drilled. Pretty simple but it works.

Sure

The ablity so shoot light loads seems to be a quest that almost everyone here pursues. I wanted that my Saiga to be no lesser. I recently knocked tha gas block off and drilled gas ports open. Now I'm able to shoot light loads that would previously cause FTEs. I bought about 300 rounds of skeet/trap ammo and thought "Oh man, this stuff is cheap. This is great". BUT... I've been on the range two times after the mod and shot IPSC targets as usual (I couldn't use those falling metal plates because there is a huge pile of snow blocking the container they are in). Then I discovered something

I never had a missfire so no light strikes here. I've fired about 1000 rounds and I see no wear on the bolt tail.

I'm asking this because this is the Factory hammer profile and it's not resting flat in my case. I know lot of you guys have changed the trigger and reprofiled it. I didn't reprofile mine because i wasn't sure if factory hammers need profiling too (do they?). What would be the benefits of ideal hammer profile (Other than reduced friction)? The hammer is striking the firing pin fine. All I can think of is that the bolt tail could wear more from the upper side as the pressure is not distribued evenly. Is there enough force in the hammer to damage the bolt? Something else?

I have the factory hammer and I have polished and rounded the corners bit. So I didn't alter the profile much. I've been reading that the hammer should rest square on the bolt tail. My hammer has a little gap on bottom part when resting on the bolt tail. Should I make it more flat or is it flat enough? Damn difficult to take pictures of that...

I took the trigger out and polished contacting surfaces. If it happens again i'm going to take a photo of the trigger group. I did have my camera with me last time but for some reason I didn't take pictures. Stupid of me.

I had a bit similiar problem today with the OP. In my case the carrier traveled back enough to eject but the disconnector somehow jammed on the hammer. When the cycle was complete and I released trigger, the trigger didn't return to forward position. I field stripped the gun and i was able to reproduce the problem: -pressing the hammer down while keeping trigger -release trigger and the disconnector would jam on the hammer preventing trigger to travel forward position I thought there might be some dirt, plastic or similiar jamming the gun. I wiped hammer, disconnector and trigger group p

Ok. I did some more filing and I was pretty sure it would work. I also set the MD20s spring tension back to three revs. Got a chance to the range today. I fired the first drum without any problem. In the next drum I had one FTF like in pic above. Same thing with the next drum. Oh man, I was so dissapointted... but I was prepared too. I brought my file set with me. After some field-filing I tried again and fired about 100 rounds without any FTFs. So I assume it's fixed now. I did notice that loading more than 18 rounds in the drum would cause FTE with the first round. But that ain't big

Hello I'm having trouble with my MD20 drum magazine. When I used the drum at the range for the first time, I got Failures to Feed. This usually happened during the first 5-7 rounds. There is sharp part in the chamber (Circled with red in the picture) that would cut in the front part of the shell and the bolt carrier would hang up. I suppose the spring tension was 3 revs as I had not altered it. At home I rounded the sharp part a bit with a fine file. I also reduced the spring tension to 2 1/2 revs. I compared the feed angles of the drum mag and a factory 5 rounder. They looked very

I used 2mm (0.079 inch) and 3mm (0.118 inch) punches to drive those pins out. 2mm for the upper and 3mm for lower pin. These millimeter sizes appeared to be just the correct size. I also put my gun outside the house for a little cooling since it was 6.8 fahrenheit degrees outside. I don't know if this helped but thats how I did it. I took the lower (bigger) pin from opposite side, ejector side down.

This thread was very helpful. I had 4 port gun with all holes exposed. The holes were about 1.5mm. The gun wouldn't cycle skeet/trap rounds, but I found relatively cheap ammo that worked fine (Saga Export 32g). I decided to drill those holes to 2.0mm to make it more reliable. The pins came out nicely, but the gas block was harder. Shelf bracket didn't do nothing in my case, but a hammer and a brass rod did the trick. Assembly was easier and I got the gas block in the right spot with first try. No problem inserting those pins either. BTW, I used 2mm and 3mm pin punches and it seeme

Thanks for the link. So the latch does indeed interfere with the MD20 drum. I don't think I'm going the change that buttstock but I wanted to know how it's done. I just need a factory recoil pad and then I'm happy about it. I had one those slip-on recoi pads on it earlier. It felt good but it was too big for it and it looked silly. Hopefully Rusmilitary will get them back in stock soon.