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I bought the Phantom Flash Hider for the Saiga .308 listed on Dinzags website. I also moved the front sight back per the instructions from the website. However, the flash hider has about 0.5 inch too much threading and therefore the opening of the flash hider sits about 0.5 inches from the muzzle of the rifle. I've e-mailed Brian about it, but he takes a bit to answer e-mails. Meanwhile, has anyone else run into this problem? Should I cut the flash hider by 0.5 inches so it fits somewhat flush to the crown?

I finally knocked out the pins today and I started on the FSB. I used a rubber mallet to hammer the sights until they're 90 degrees canted. Then I clamped it to a table and used a 1.5'' hardwood dowel as a drift punch and knocked it off. If it matters, the outside of the barrel and the inside of the FSB was soaked with small motor oil. I had used it the day before as cutting oil to drill into the pins some to get more purchase with a pin punch. I'm surprised it penetrated that far.

Mine came right out, they should NOT be tapered and should come out in either direction... Do you have pics of both sides? Turns out my problem was I clamped the rifle to a wooden table and the wood was absorbing the shock. I stacked a set of bricks, pressed the rifle on top and gave it a whack with a tap starter and the pins started moving. Unfortunately, I had broken the normal tap earlier so the pins are just sitting halfway out. I'll visit the hardware store tomorrow to get another set of taps, but I'm having trouble finding a brass tap to move the FSB. What did you end up doing

I believe that the pins are removed from left to right looking down the muzzle so put the rifle down on it's left side, are you sure you are using the right size punch? I use something that looks like a ice pick with a rounded tip... Are you sure the pins are tapered? I've actually been hammering it from right to left as you've described, but I did try it left to right today (no results) and I'm starting to notice if anything the right side is larger than the left. The pins on my gas block seems to be a straight pin though. I think I'll have to resort to drilling the pin out.

Not everyone has the type of barrel you have and that is why it came out easily.... Most of these barrels the FSB are pressed on, when I tried mine I hammered & hammered & hammered and nothing it would not budge.. As AL stated the pins themselves should pop right out, the issue you are really going to have is to remove the FSB itself.... So what is the solution to removing that type of FSB? I read Al's post, but it seems like he does have a different FSB than mine. Mine has the cap on the front like in dinzags instrucions. However according to dinzag, you hammer out the pins

I've been trying to remove my FSB off my Saiga .308 per Dinzags instructions. He dictated that you just tap out the 2 holding pins with a tap and a hammer. I've been going at it for a day with a tap and hammer. I've already broken one tap and the pins aren't budging. I'm assuming the pins are bi-directional and come out either way. I noticed the non-cocking hammer side is more recessed. My last resort would be to try and drill them out, but then I would be stuck trying to find a replacement pin. Is there something simple I'm missing?

I'm in Broward county. I can help you get started if you want.

What furniture is a drop in for the .308? I'm looking through TAPCO products and then I stumble across this on dinzagarms and I see the bolt-on-lower handguard retainer. The description is : Installation of this retainer allows your rifle to accept regular AK lower handguards and cleaning rods. So if I buy the TAPCO upper and lower handguard set I have to buy the retainer as well?

Andrew, There is a major problem with the rifle you sold me. Please check your PM.

I have noticed that not all pistol grip nuts are the same. I have two pistol grip nuts, one is a bit larger than the other and will not fit into one of my rifles. I would suggest you buy the grip nut first and measure it off that.

Put the bolt in the bolt carrier. Move the bolt into the forward position. Place the assembly on the slots in the receiver (two slots on the back for the carrier, two slots near the middle for the bolt). If pushing down on the bolt doesn't work, you may need to hit the bolt with your hand to get it to slide in. The problem is the hammer is pushing up against the bolt when you're trying to put it back in. I have to use some force to get my new 308 carrier assembly to go in.

Um. I think it's quite obvious that getting the 16'' and threading is easier than cutting the barrel then threading.

You need carbide drill bits. Also, you only really need 1 screw for the trigger guard. The second screw inside the mag release well is unnecessary unless you plan on hammering on your trigger guard. As for the safety lever, have you placed the hammer springs and cocked the hammer before attempting to install the lever?

I have heard of people using the org. hammer in their 308 does it work without any problem I think the original hammer would work, but then you'd have to find another part to replace for 922r compliance.