Wagnikov

So no one has facts to lay this rest? Hmmmmm

I don't think you were referring to me cobra. I did the d-mod as a noob. It was part of what got the gun running. And that started the saigaittis! Lol I do believe it to be excessive. And after better understanding and theory I only bevel from the bottom side at the same angle as the gas ports similar to what you just suggested. That said, some people are just fuckups, that's what they do. I personally don not see the "OMG" factor, and would appreciate an explanation of what the dangers are. It would help everyone. Sometimes the best approach is what NOT to do. ie don't fuck with the cam cha

+1 as long as you don't cut towards the piston side. And the whole "you have to leave the shoulder by the threads" is total bs. I have one gun w/o the d-mod that's takes a pipe wrench to remove. The gun with the d-mod is never more than hand tight. Ymmv

I think the distance of ejection is the best indicator of over gassed. I think 5-7' is a good tune. Still reliable but not excessive.10'+ is a prob imho

Posted pic for anyone to reference the handguard brakets to mount a SVD forestock. This is a factory 040 . Iz-447. Thanks again Legion USA

+1 this is exactly what I use successfully!

This is the front sight block at the end of the barrel, that lines up with the rear rifle sight block on the 040 guns.

If there is one thing standard about these guns, it would be that there is no standard! Lol Hence no 030/040's have a side rail. Looks like a couple saiga's cousins from (insert: your state) had a little too much "alone time" in the gun safe!

It was all I could do to keep from imagining just how "big" that would be!!!! Lmao

Nice pics Cobra. That's doin IT!

FREEBEE! Lol, I didn't want to love the vepr12, but there dam good!

Reference this for pics (i don't know how to make it link? Anyone wanna privy me with that info?lol) NEVER struggle to remove upper handguard again!

Welp, turns out my brother's mother-in-law can't make the parts, and I really don't have the money to shell out to convert my Saiga and buy the SVD stock so how hard exactly is it to replace a gas puck? That, my friend, is a quantum leap in the change of "scope of work" lmfao Ok. First you have to field strip the weapon. So remove the dustcover, remove the recoil spring, then slide the carrier all the way to the rear pull it up and out. Then on the right-hand side of the rear sight block there is a small lever. You have to rotate that lever up(yes it will prob be very tight) once not lever

I really like my 20ga, but that is the only drum avail. How much would you pay for one within a range of well used -bnib? I don't ever consider a drum a "need" lol, but they are the icing on the cake for a mag-fed shotgun.

How has the 20g drum worked for you?

I think they will be factory SVD. The SVD has an entirely different reciever, so it would require extensive mods to s12 reciever or stock or both? I really don't know tho

I shot 60 rounds through my 16" saiga. I was shooting 3moa, as good as most. But had several fail to chamber the last 1/2" or so. the round seemed to stick. Never tried forcing the carrier foreward. Just ejected the unused round. I believe it was the bullet and not the case? Anyway remember at least three in 60. Ymmv

You can prep with a the dremel and hand sanding. But I firmly believe you need at least a 6 inch buffing grinder to do a decent job of polishing. Red rouge Is fine enough for steel. (guess I didn't ask if you knew the rouge is color-coded or not) I got the polishing motor all of the pads and the rouge at Harbor freight

I was just trying to explain to you why people get so pissy and nobody seems to want to answer any questions, more than likely they probably Artie answer those questions 100 times. Even worse is when they have a big long debate and somebody does their best to try to help them and spends a bunch of time and they either nor the advice or never give any feedback Truly polishing is a dirty nasty job so unless it's just for personal satisfaction or extreme boredom and you time is worth no more than five dollars an hour you're way better off sending it to somebody like cobra.

That's pretty good, but it took a little long, so it would raise the question whether that new fancy smart phone help you out or not. Either way we both know that you know, therefore we are all better informed.lol Ps i'm driving back from a job site and I'm using Siri on my iPhone

Basically the guys that actually do shit don't want to sit on here and argue with the keyboard commando in his moms basement cuz they heard about a Saiga12 on call of fucking duty. For you that may be an over exaggeration for some it's not

Okay, I reread your original post and you begged to not get picked on. So here goes. Through the process of polishing you will not be adding material you will be taking it away. therefore if you want it smooth and flat and like a mirror. you have to take off enough metal to get to the very deepest existing tooling mark,scratch, gouge or imperfection. If those tooling marks are I'm going to say .010 deep you have to take off .010 off the entire surface you're working on. if you just dig into the individual spots you will get a wavy look in your polish. And that is a lot of metal. Not all parts

Ok what does "grit" stand for? Tell me what "rouge" is?

What gas setting is it on? What ammo are you running? Do you hold the gun like a girl? Is it "converted". Yes/no If yes look up "profiling the hammer" If you enjoy the hammer profiling project look up "profiling/polishing the bolt" Answer the above questions Check your progress see if your gun cycles If no move on to "gas block mods/redrilling gas ports Give feed back on forum with pictures Check your progress see if your gun cycles Ask lots of question, more important have pictures and respond if someone asks you a ? There are no terminally ill saigas. If you're willing to stick