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About Salmonaxe

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    Guns, video games, anime, movies, art, 3D modeling, Airsoft, army surplus, military, music, women...
  1. I just took of the front and rear sights on my Saiga 12 in order to install an Ultimak rail system. Front sight has two flats on it and unscrews. I used a small set of pliers with a flat nose. Rear sight is to be driven out to the right. (Muzzle end pointing away from you.) I'm pretty sure that the dovetail on the rear sight has a slight taper to it. At first I tried a brass punch like the instruction said, but the brass absorbed too much of th impact. (Too soft) I then put Electrical tape on the trunnion to keep it from getting scuffed up and used a 1/3" diameter steel punch. Started off with a 5lb mini sledge and then switched to a 3lb deadblow and the brass punch when the sight started moving.
  2. Well, mainly I really really like Aimpoints. I probably have 5-6 of them on various rifles and on my Saiga. The Aimpoint has really good battery life, a simple design and can take a lot of abuse. With the micro, it has that same level of battery life and durability in a WAY smaller package. Yet, it only has a tube diameter that's about 3/4 the size of a standard Aimpoint M2. I really value the durability of my optics since I live in a wet climate. On top of that, the micro should sit even lower than a standard Aimpoint and weighs considerably less. This should be a great combination for a shotgun. Also, Aimpoints have one of the brightest dots I've ever seen. I've never had any issues with my dot washing out, even on very bright sunny days. I think that high visibility is a must for a shotgun which main purpose is 3-gun. I think I'll be saving some clams and selling off a few accessories in order to fund a Micro. Hopefully I'll have it before my next 3-gun.
  3. Just an FYI to all you folks out there. If you want to use one of the new Ultimak rails for your Saiga 12, the Larue throw lever won't work. Larue's throw levers need clearance below the rail. The Ultimak rail juts out and blocks the Larue from fully closing. Even though I don't like ARMS mounts, they fit. So I'm using that instead. I tried a QRP and that also worked. Also, this rail system is quite nice. It sits even lower than one of the low Kvar mounts. (About 1/2 inch lower.) Currently I've got an Aimpoint Comp M2 mounted in an the ARMS M68. I'm thinking that it might be even nicer to get lower using a unit like the Burris Fastfire (Jpoint type optic) or an Aimpoint Micro. (I'd LOVE to have an Aimpoint micro.) I'm thinking I might just have to try mounting it using one of the really low Aimpoint manufactured rings.
  4. Salmonaxe

    Saiga AOW

    Are Saiga 12 AOW's possible? I'm pretty sure AOW's need to be made from a virgin receiver or a factory pistol gripped shotgun. Has anyone produced a USA made Saiga 12 receiver? FYI No SBS's in my state, only AOW's. That's why I'm asking.
  5. Well, I'm not talking about stuff I heard, just my own personal experience. I know that I like to hear peoples experiences with accessories, especially if they are bad. It sucks to drop $$$ on junk. I don't baby my firearms, and I expect them to be able to pass a drop test. Both my AR-15's have accidentally fallen and have no loss of zero (and definitely haven't fallen apart). And I expect the reason for this is that the price of these optics reflect their quality. Naw, you can keep your $20 I'll find some sucker at the gunshow who will pay more.
  6. I got a PK-A Reddot with a Bulgy AK I bought, and I thought I'd try it out on my Saiga-12. (w/ 2 3/4"slugs) Big Mistake! I made it fairly tight on the side rail and after a couple of shots it popped off. So then I tightened it some more and sighted it in. I decided to run it at my rifle league and after 2 shots it came flying off the rifle again and I had to run the entire course with irons. (which leave much to be desired since they aren't all that adjustable). The scope didn't retain that much damage considering it was launched about 6ft onto concrete. Just a couple of scuffs. I didn't think much of it and later I really tightened it down so it wouldn't fly off anymore. So then I took my Saiga 12 to the range to shoot some slugs. I shot maybe 10rds and then the red dot started moving all over the place. Fed up, I cased the gun and shot my less Ghetto guns. I didn't really think about it much and then today I decided I should pull the junky scope off since it was adding unneeded weight to the shotgun. I messed around with it, and couldn't seem to get the reddot to show up at all.... Then I noticed something. The front lens was missing from the sight!!!! This leaves nothing for the led light to bounce off of and create the red dot. DOH! I don't know how this lens was kept in place, but it seems that it was probably held in by an E-clip of some sort, or possibly just some kind of epoxy. (I know that it had some sort of sealant to make it airtight) Seems pretty crappy that a simple thing like a red dot couldn't handle a drop and the recoil from some slugs. Oh well, better now than at some "critical" moment. I think an aimpoint will probably be much more durable. So far, my experience with Russian optics, is that they are pretty awful. I also have a PSOP scope that walks all over the place. (actually moving the point of impact between a couple places consistently.) Poor Russian soldiers, Having to deal with junk optics, no wonder they lost the cold war.
  7. Well, some Chinese AK magazines have a follower that has a tab that sticks up on it and holds the bolt back on the last round. I think they are for some special chinese gun, but they also work in a standard AK. I'm guessing that this could possibly work with a Saiga 12 mag, but as soon as you remove the mag the bolt will end up flying forward. So it's kinda pointless. And personally, I'd actually prefer 8rd mags. More specifically exact duplicates of the standard saiga 12 8rd mags. Ishmash surely had to do a lot of bug testing on these mags, and reliability is the MOST important aspect of a mag. If it holds ten rounds, but jams (even occasionally) then the mags are worthless. In the time that it takes to clear a jam, you should be able to change a mag... maybe even more than once. Also, you have to consider the stress that the extra added weight of a couple rounds will put on the front tab of the mag. If these mags aren't made with steel inserts for the front tab (like a standard 8rd mag) then there's a possibility that it will be too weak, and will snap if it caught on anything. 10rd mags could be too cumbersome, making it difficult to, place on your body (like pouches) change mags and move around with. I know that the Finnish members have made some seriously modified extended mags, and it sounded like they had to re-enforce parts of them, and their saiga's. I guess I'm saying that I want reliability over novelty. And making exact duplicates of original 8rd mags would be the easiest solution. Just my 2 cents.
  8. One of the fastest (and probably goofiest looking) ways I've found to load a fresh magazine and also maintain a good cheek weld is to: 1) Make sure you have a good cheekweld and the butt is placed firmly in your shoulder. 2) Maintain a good grip on the forearm with your left hand, then pull and hold open the bolt with your right hand in the way that is strongest for you. (for me it's with my index finger like I'm holding a bicycle handlebar. Specifically at base of my finger and with a closed fist) 3) Let go of the forearm with you left hand. (You should have a nice triangle of support between your cheekweld, shoulder and right hand. If not, maybe you'll drop your gun.) 4) Use your left hand to release your old mag, then grab a new mag and rock it in. 5) Grab the forearm with your left hand and release the bolt with your right hand. 6)Grab the pistol grip. 7) Rock and Roll! This could work really awesome if you had a Galil style charging handle. Also, I've found that when trying to load mags on a closed bolt, being as choked up to the top of the mag will help with indexing the mag but not with leverage. So if you are having problems with inserting the magazine, grab farther down. Though too far down and you might not be able to index it just right. No matter what, mag changes with a Saiga 12 is strenuous. So a BHO is nice for laid-back shooting since it can add extra steps. (dependant on your technique) Just my two cents. *BTW, I love that saiga video. The funny space suit and that kick ass van, all to the top gun music. Classic! Russians are too funny.
  9. Salmonaxe

    Grip screw base

    I think something like that could work, but I don't see the reason why... I'm pretty sure that this grip nut, from a milled reciever gets it's strength from fitting into a slot which keeps it from moving from side to side. But on a standard stamped reciever grip nut, the strength is retained by having large flats on the grip nut pressing on either side of the grip nut hole. This gives the nut an even distribution of pressure on 2 axis. (like a cube) It looks like the grip nut in your picture would only really give an even distribution of pressure in 1 axis. (like a domino on its side) This could potentially cause your pgrip to wiggle side to side and loosen up over time. Or, it could be totally fine. The length of your pictured grip nut might be a little long and could potentially interfer with your trigger group and possibly the portion of the buttstock that fits into the reciever. If I was you, I'd just buy a standard grip nut from tapco. I mean, there has to be some good reason that the design is different between the two and it's always a good idea to stick to the tried and true.
  10. Yes, it is exactly like the mag you have in your picture. The torture test I did was basically an all day trap shoot with my buddies on the 4th. I noticed that whenever I had a jam, it was on that specific mag and it was always a failure to feed. It usually was a pretty bad failure to feed, where I couldn't clear it very easily. I'm thinking, part of it was because the shell wasn't angled the same as the newer mags. This caused the bottom of the shell to catch on the lower "feed ramp" and deform really bad. The only thing I could really do was to lock the bolt back and remove the mag to clear it. Also, since the older design seems to trap the rim of the shell, it needs a lot more force to break free, and I think this causes the shell to tip down. Now, I might be able to make this mag function reliably with heavier loads. Since more force is exerted over a shorter period of time, I think it's tendency to tip would be less. Oh yeah, I was shooting 8 lead birdshot... so the loads were really light. So, no one has any extra lips?
  11. I noticed a couple people have gone through the trouble of taking 2 5rd mags and making one 10 rd mag out of them. I was wondering if any of those people kept their feed lips from the donor mag? You see, I have a old Saiga 12 mag that has a different designed feed lips and when I finally did a torture test on it, it turned out to be very unrealiable. I while back I posted a pic of this different type of mag if you want to see what I'm talking about. Anyway, I would be willing to pay for a replacement set of lips if anyone has some. Looking at the design, the lips should be interchangeable. Also, if possible, I'd like to have an extra follower, just in case that is slightly different. (maybe I should compare it to my already existing mags..... hmmmmm.....) Anyways. Thanks.
  12. I'm with you on that! That mag doesn't look like the saiga swat mag, so it seems that the magwell could be custom... Maybe this an earlier version of the saiga swat? The extended mag release is really interesting.
  13. LOL!! Gotta love the bunny suits!
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