Rustynuts

Thanks, that gives a good description of the parts, but it's not the "exploded" version that would show how things go together.

Are there any good exploded diagrams of the S-12 internals? Ripped mine apart 3-mos ago and don't really recall how it all goes together. Yes, I've reviewed the Shiek tutorial and seen some Youtube how-to's, but still would like some more definitive instructions or pics.

Yea, I figured out the offset hole. Mine also springs into place and remains flat. Not sure what the Ace internal block is, so I guess I'm not using it! Still wish the rear washer was larger or thicker if possible. Seems like this bolt-up will be under tension from the grip torquing when firing. Tension will tend to pull the washer into the hole. If it's compression I wouldn't worry about the washer.

The two front holes on my DIY guard do not line up with the old existing rivet holes. It looks best with the middle hole lined up, but the front hole is forward of the DIY guard and overlapped about halfway. I assume it's OK to re-drill this hole which will make it oval. The middle hole should keep things aligned. Now the rear hole of the DIY guard. It's right in the middle of the stock grip nut rectangular hole. The enclosed washer barely goes over the edge. Doesn't seem wide enough to provide adequate support for the grip? Is this normal with the offset forward hole and the rear

or welding skills!

Mine too! Now I need to stop lolly gagging and get my receiver refinished.

Dammit, still waiting for my email from MAA! Pretty sure I was one of the first to sign up. Hope I didn't get lost in the shuffle!. My S-12 has been in pieces waiting for this part (and others) since March! Finally got the nerve to try some moly resin on a KelTec slide (didn't really care if I screwed that up!). Now I need to get serious about re-coating the S-12 now that this part is imminent. EDIT - Nathan took care of me, got one ordered. Great service!!

WOW! Still $9,999 on MAA site. Guess I'll wait for the non-platinum/diamond encrusted version to come out!

mmm, thought you had to bake it before drying to get the hardness, guess not!

How do you get the darn thing into the oven without totally messing up the paint job? Seems like it would be tough to keep it bumping the sides or your arms when trying to hang just right.

Tried it crossways, but not angled down without the grates. Might "just" fit that way. What do you hang it from with no grates?

Got my S-12 gutted and obtained a sandblaster, K-phos, moly resin, and some black diamond media. Waiting on the Tromix DIY part to assemble and went to check out the oven for baking. I can't get the whole receiver/barrel in the oven for baking! Should I press off the gas block and remove barrel, or am I asking for WAY too much work? Options? Get a local shop to paint after I strip and k-phos?

Gorilla glue will not take stain AND it's not good for gap filling. Basically it foams up and has no real structural strength in the gaps, kind of like that gap foam sealer for your house. The foam will deteriorate over time. It's hard to stain a large gap. Small imperfections can filled with a mixture of sawdust (from the same wood naturally) and 2-part epoxy. You can either try this and attempt to stain later (not sure if that will work) or add stain to the epoxy mix while wet. You will have to experiment with a bunch of small batches to get the right shade before doing the final glue-

Another asinine law technicality, taking the barrel off just work on the end. What if your mechanic said you had to pull your engine just to put on a K&D air filter to be legal! Ridiculous (but still the law!)

Does everyone thin their moly resin a little before spraying, or just use it out of the bottle?

I didn't have a push vise, just pushed by hand against a fence between two stops. I think that's what caused it to get jumpy! I thought it would cut like butter, but it didn't want to go sideways at all! The short slot on the top pic doesn't look as bad as the pic, the pic is showing an undercut. It's a little more even straight on.

Did the self venting on my Tapco Galil foregrip. Came out OK I guess, not perfect. Used my carbide mill bit in a drill press but still didn't come out smooth. Ended up with a lot of filing and sanding. Couple slots are a smidgen long (one runs into the border area), the short one on the right side is a little lopsided at the rear (need to do some more filing on it). Looks good from 5-10 feet away though! May get disgusted with it and buy a commercial one later.

MAA is taking waiting list names. At least they were.

Thanks, might look into the Gunkote stuff. I'd rather not have to dip if possible. I may not re-do the barrel for now, just the receiver. The cold blue would only have been used as an undercoat to the moly resin. Would it make the moly look spotty?

What's the procedure to Parkerize? I've never done it before. Is it a dip, brush, wipe-on, etc.?

Do most blue or parkerize before painting (after stripping the old finish)? Will the cold blue stuff work, or does it need to be hot? Don't even bother?

When you sand does it have to be down to white metal, or do you just knock it down some and rough up?

Is it a RULE you have to sand/bead blast the old finish off before refinishing? Or can I just sand the crap out of it? Using Norrell's moly resin if it matters.

Never thought of that! I guess I assumed I'd need the Tapco hammer to mate with the Tapco trigger or something. Guess not!

Got my Tapco G2 trigger kit. What do I need to do to the hammer? Make it identical to stock? I ground of the one end to make room for the BHO and tapered the one "wing" up by the top of the hammer. Do I need to grind down the hump at the bottom of the hammer on the front? Any mods needed to the actual trigger?