SBL

A heads-up for those with the "old-style" .410s - I just received a V-plug (from CSS, naturally) and it will NOT fit mine, dated '99. It has the plug that looks like a giant slotted screw, and a solid piston, though it does have the sliding dust shield and lengthened dust cover cutout. The V-plug is quite a lot too large to fit - so is the MD piston/puck. The calipers show the old puck to be .727" OD X .552" long, the MD puck being .826" OD X .593". The V-plug OD is larger by about the same amount, including the threads. I plan on doing some gas system modifications, though, so I shoul

Ahh, ok. Yeah, Mothers is good stuff from what I hear. Flitz is supposed to be another good one - in fact, I used a little bit of Flitz to "brighten" the barrel after polishing. 7.62_Scout

Chevyman, I'd be glad to take you up on your offer! I'll keep that in mind if I'm ever out that way. I'm used to redneck anyways! BlackLS1Top, Hold on a second... don't use a drill! Just a friendly caution... Ya gotta be 100% sure of what you're doing before even thinking about doing this. What will happen if you use a drill or other rotating tool along with a soft pad, is that the lands in the barrel will be worn down, on one side only - basically it's just hitting the "high spots". Result = maybe a ruined barrel. If you run a patch straight up and down the bore, using arm power,

chevyman - thanks! I'm sure you're right about places to shoot. I hear ya on the range applications... I haven't been in the area long, though, so I'm not sure where all I could go. I was also looking for someplace convenient. At least one of the guys from work goes to OC, so I thought I would throw an application out there and see what happens. blackls1top - No brush. The Buehler polish, which is a metallurgical polish used prior to etching a sample for viewing under a microscope, is a fine, pure white flour of aluminum oxide. Warning - Do Not attempt this unless you are confident wi

Heh, sometimes I think I like working on things more than actually using them. Case in point, I have 3 milling machines, and 3 lathes... only 1 of each are in working condition. I actually haven't been able to get to a range since working on the rifle last, it's been awhile since I have even been shooting. I have an application in at Oil Capital here in the Tulsa area, but who knows when a membership will be available. Oh, one other thing. I also polished the bore with some Buehler 1 micron micropolishing powder. The bore is like a mirror now... I am looking forward to seeing whether

Hi all! Since I have started posting here, I thought it would be a good idea to introduce myself. I got my 7.62, 20" Saiga a couple of years ago, on a recommendation from a friend. Probably (ok, definitely) the best firearms purchase I ever made, and my first non-.22 rifle! Being the mechanically inclined type, I started thinking of what all I could do to my rifle to make it better as soon as it came out of the box. I did some searching around, and found this forum... the collective wisdom here has helped me on many occasions, though you've never known it. So thanks to all! As for the

If you do the conversion, you would have to ditch the stock anyways, since the conversion moves the trigger group forward about 1". If you like the skeleton stocks, though, there are a couple of vendors who offer them. Choate has one, there's one in the ATI "Fiberforce" line, and there's at least one more that I'm forgetting who makes it. I would definitely do the conversion, it's worth it! Congratulations on your new addiction... If it hasn't hit you yet, it will soon. Here's a converted Saiga with a Choate stock and an Ultimak rail: -7.62_Scout

Agreed... Micah, that's one heck of a nice looking rifle. Here's mine; I'm considering replacing the stock and PG, and maybe fitting a quadrail. Sights are Yankee Hill flip-ups with homemade rail adapters. I was also thinking about sticking a LER 1-4X red-dot on the Ultimak rail, but these don't seem to exist. I may have to go with a Strikefire or something...

Jim, What size tap are you using? #8-32? EDIT: Nevermind, looks like Dinzag uses #6-32 hardware in his kits. I think the easiest thing to do would be to use a tap extension.

Hmm... that's an oddball thread for sure, but not entirely unexpected in something like a sight. I couldn't find any screws in that size from any of the usual suspects, or even some specialty places. The good news is that I can make one for you, although it may take me a while, as I'm kinda busy with another machining project at the moment (making an M14x1-LH tap for my x39). Send me a PM if you're interested.

Ok, that makes sense. It makes no difference to me whether it's dented or not as long as I know what is causing it. So, no worries. I actually already knew about the dual-diameter neck, although I didn't really say so. Thanks for the help.

Hey all, Got my Saiga over the summer and have put about 160 rounds through it. Ever since the first cartridge was fired, I have been getting this: Anyone have any ideas on why the cartridges are being dented like that? The dents are probably about 1/16 inch deep on the brass. Is it anything I need to be concerned about? I can't see anything in the chamber that would be causing this condition. Thanks in advance for any help.