pavel74 0 Posted September 23, 2004 Report Share Posted September 23, 2004 i'm at the point where i need to drill the hole for the p.g. and i'm wondering is the diagram i downloaded from the saiga conversion web page (for rifles) going to use the same measurements as the 12 gauge? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
inparidel 4 Posted September 23, 2004 Report Share Posted September 23, 2004 If you are using the TAPCO M-249 SAW grip as many of us have, a 1/4" carriage bolt works much better than anything that comes with the grip. The existing opening in the receiver fits the square on the bolt perfectly. Just get a roll odf quick-set epoxy putty from Home Depot (paint dept.). Snip up short strands of fiberglass cloth and knead it into the putty. Then bed the head of the carriage bolt with the putty and make sure that the putty squishes through the entire receiver hole a bit. torque the nut down on the PG just enough to get it where you want it on the receiver (check the distance between the web of your hand and the surface of the trigger to fit your hand for optimal trigger pull comfort). Torque it so everything is just firm. Waity until the epoxy has set to torque it down completely. The putty sets in 10-15 minutes, but wait several hours to torque to be sure. The head of the carriage bolt does not strike the receiver bottom squarely, because of the PG angle. The putty will provide an angled surface and will lock the bolt from forward and backward movement if it fills the entire rectangular hole. If you are using a standard AK PG, get a standard bolt and locking nut and again establish a comfortable location for your hand. Then, mark the position of the nut in the receiver hole and use a drill or dremmel to enlarge out a square hole by widening the existing rectangular hole in the appropriate place. Torque down and you're done.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Salmonaxe 0 Posted September 23, 2004 Report Share Posted September 23, 2004 Personally, I rather like the original "normal" method, of cutting the square hole for the grip nut. This grip nut, is the standard for all AK's and I've never heard of the Pgrips falling off or anything, so I trust it the best. I used the measurements from the standard saiga conversion page, and they worked great. The hardware I got with my Tapco SAW style grip also worked well, and I have suffered no slipping or movement in the grip. (The biggest improvement they made was adding a lock washer) The only thing I might suggest different with their hardware, would be an allen bolt instead of the flat head that's provided. And that would only be for ease of installation. Using the original/old trigger hole would put the P-grip too far back in my opinion, shortening the distance from grip to shoulder. You want to have a proper length for yourself. A good way to tell this, is by holding the gun by the Pgrip at a right angle (like you'd do if you're giving someone the finger) and the buttstock should be cradled on the inside of your elbow. If it's too long, or too short, you should change this by getting a different length buttstock. Creating a grip nut hole in the proper spot, will allow you to use a multitude of different grips, if you decide the one you currently have isn't to your liking. Which I think is pretty valuably. So in answer to your question, "Yes, those measurements work!" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pavel74 0 Posted September 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2004 thanks guys for the answers. i think i'll probably go with cutting the hole out, the other method suggested sounds easier but since i work in an automotive shop i've got all kinds of fun cutting tools. one other thing i must decide on is what type stock to use? i would like to find one that requires minimum modification if possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Salmonaxe 0 Posted September 24, 2004 Report Share Posted September 24, 2004 Any fixed stock that's made for a standard Stamped AK receiver should work. Original Eastern Block made folders will most likely require you to replace the rear trunion. American made folders Like ACE, I don't think require the removal of the rear trunion. If you decide to go with using a shepards crook(retaining wire) you won't have to make any modification to the stock. (On the saiga conversion page, they use the original retaining spring with some binding posts, which requires you to cut a notch in the stock.) If you're going for a fixed stock, I'd suggest this one: http://www.k-var.com/product.asp?3=194 It's longer for us big American types. I have a Euro/Warsaw length one, and it's a little short. But, I'm thinking I might get the Tapco 1" rubber buttplate and see how that feels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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