Am I going the right direction?

[artx15 0]

I am gearing up for building another AK, I have done at least 10 builds so far a few Romy G kits, a couple polish underfolders, and AMD 65 and 63, and I have a tutorial on AR15.com on how to convert a WASR-10. I was looking into buying a 5.56 parts kit and going that direction, but for some reason they are really proud of them, even thought about converting a WASR3 or whatever but would still be left with a romy gun. Anyway I have this sort of planned out but not completely.

 

I want to build one similar to this.

 

I plan on achieving this using a saiga 20" barrel version. I figure on a 20" that way I can cut the FSB off and still have about 17-18" of usable barrel left. Then either using the KRebs FSB/Block combo unit or having the HK style installed for my sights. I figure this way would have the entire barrel open to do the handguard conversion while I was in there. as for the stock I have been looking into the ACE skeleton stock with internal Reciever block. I dont care much for it to fold. And have the Flash hider out a few inches in front of the FSB.

 

Now to the barrel threading, I would like a 1/2x28" thread but I think the only way to achieve this is on my lathe? I am correct to assume that or is there a nifty trick? I could prolly do the 14x1 metric thingy, but I am shooting for the crush washer look with a birdcage.

 

 

Did I miss anything except the mags?

any input would be great

[vjor 2]

Now to the barrel threading, I would like a 1/2x28" thread but I think the only way to achieve this is on my lathe? I am correct to assume that or is there a nifty trick? I could prolly do the 14x1 metric thingy, but I am shooting for the crush washer look with a birdcage.

 

 

Did I miss anything except the mags?

any input would be great

 

 

Is more ways to skin a cat, get a TAT 1/2x28 install it on barrel, file side of barrel first to the same diameter

of TAT, 4 square files on the barrel to take meat from the barrel, latter file again on the sides that have not been file,

the barrel will look octagonal, remember all the filing is to be same diameter of TAT, after all filing is done

install TAT on DIE, secure the TAT to the DIE with your brake or nut ( same treats of the TAT, like that the

TAT don't move on the DIE and treat as much as you need ) the TAT will be half way on the die to let the die

make some starter treats on barrel, the TAT will make the die do concentric treats with bore on the barrel.

 

Looks complicated but is easy as easy can be.

 

Measure how deep goes your muzzle brake or flash hider or what ever you going to install on barrel

plus crush washer, or traded sleeve to secure what ever you install at the end of barrel

plus you can use a sleeve to index your brake and cover st6uff over barrel if you want.

 

 

If you go FSGB and you have all the barrel on the front, I have use a traded sleeves

to index muzzle brake and flash hiders, plus still can change stuff around when I want

the sleeve or index nut goes against the brake or flash and index it plus holds it on place

Dinsag can make you one if you want.

 

Now if you want a TAT and die for 1/2 x28 look here https://www.shop.preciseinnovationsllc.com/splashPage.hg.

 

But hey is not the only way to do stuff, like I say is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

If permanent you can treat you barrel and after that silver solder the flash hider to barrel

to index it and hold it in place, have done barrels cut to 14 1/2 inches with permanent

flash hider to make the barrel 16 inches or 16 1/2 inches.

 

Just my 2 cents of home gunsmith worth of nothing.

 

Hey you can ask bad bob here in the forum, he can explain all this more easy than I can

he have probably treat more stuff that I have for a long shot.

Edited July 14, 2007 by vjor