Saigaczech 9 Posted December 12, 2007 Report Share Posted December 12, 2007 Well I started on my conversion today. Parts are in the mail according to K-Var and Tapco, should arrive by the end of the week I figure. Mags are ordered from FBMG, got what looked like automated reply from them, will see when they arrive. So far I got the fire control group out and and the rear part of the trigger guard free. Tomorrow I will work on the spotweld on the front part of the trigger guard. I got ti started today but, dang, that Russian steel is tough. I am using cobalt tipped drills and barely making headway. Will see how tomorrow goes. Had to stop for the night lest I disturb the neighbors and their kids. Anyway, I ordered the Tapco retention plate to hold the trigger and hammer pins in. Will that work OK? I never used it before, usually use the provided shepherd's hook spring but the one on this build was so hard to get off I want to replace it. So far the conversion looks fairly straight forward and I have not marred anything yet. Still looking for a decent muzzle attachment but that can wait. Danzig's site gave me a few ideas, might have to borrow that threading kit from him. Thanks for all the info Danzig. I am thinking of playing with the hand guard. Any suggestions and advice on cutting cooling vents and changing the shape? Do I need to consider a heat guard? Anyway, advice and constructive criticism and comments welcome. Will post more as I get more done. Once done I may post picture fo my AK collection. Got a AMD-65 customized in 7.62x39, Galil in 5.56, Wz.88 Tantal in 5.45x39 and now this Saiga in 7.62x51. Covering all the bases, heheh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Saigaczech 9 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2007 Never mind, found my answers in the Tech section (I think). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo mike 1 Posted December 12, 2007 Report Share Posted December 12, 2007 I wouldn't waste my time with the drill bits. I used my Dremel with a cut off wheel to get the rear trigger guard rivet off and a metal cutting/grinding bit to get the front spot weld started. After cutting the rivet head off the back one I used a punch to knock it out. On the front trigger guard spot weld I created a hole and then finished it off with a drill bit. I have been taking pictures of specific steps and the bits that I have used but I am not done yet. It sounds like you are at about the same point I am. Right now I am waiting for my new trigger so I can start to put it back together. Good luck with the rest of your conversion. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Saigaczech 9 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2007 Yeah, I hear what you are saying. My problem with using a Dremel is the high speed low torque mode it coems with. It leaves a lot to be desired as far as precision work too. I am trying not to mar up my receiver too much (succeeding so far too). I am goign to try the masonry dril bits first and then move on to the Dremel grinding and cut off bits. BTW, the rivets are so soft that a good file wil take the ends off like butter, just need to be careful and protect surrounding metal. I started my rivets by filing them flat and center punching them before going on to the drill. Oh yeah, for those hard to find screw items, Tacoma Screw Products has lots of screws, nuts and bolts that you won't find in Lowe's. They are a local store for those of us in the PNW only though. Just an FYI for those close to home. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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