goelmo 0 Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 I'm in the process of doing a conversion on my Saiga .308 and may have a problem. The trigger hole under the plate is very large. My Tapco G2 almost falls right through. It does not just "drop right in" as I have read on other posts. I have also noticed the hammer is incompatible and will not install correctly unless perhaps I take a file too it. Anyone have similar issues? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Saigaczech 9 Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 (edited) Hmm, well the trigger is supposed to be held in place by a pin, not the hole, just like on a regular AK. The positioning of the pin and engagement with the hammer are the telling parts. Yes, a trigger hole should be larger then a slot for the actual trigger part your finger sits on. I am pretty sure the all the factory holes are within spec. Also, the hammer does require a bit of fitting. I had to use a Dremel on mine to make sure it pivots freely on the hammer pivot pin. It is just a minor fitting. Make sure that your hammer, sear and safety engage properly or else you could have an unsafe gun, check the sticky at the top of this forum subsection on safety. I ended up doing a recutting and polishing on my hammer and trigger sear engagement surfaces to have a safe trigger, also the safety required a bit of welding up so it was positive. I added a more positive camber to the hook on the trigger. If you are unfamiliar with how the AK trigger group works you may want to have this done by a smith. If you study the shape you should be able to figure out what this means. AKs are probably the easiest weapons to smith. Edited January 31, 2008 by Saigaczech Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fossten 1 Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 The G2 trigger should have a sleeve that keeps it in place; it should not fall through. And yes, you'll have to grind down the whale's head hump on the hammer. Take your time, don't overdo it. Use a dremel, it's much easier. Also polish it in that spot when you're done, it functions better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LESchwartz 9 Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 Some converted Saigas have too much side to side play in the trgger hole . . . is this what you're talking about? Larry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
goelmo 0 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LESchwartz 9 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 (edited) Too much side-to-side movement can cause FCG components to bind -- which is bad. You can reduce any side-to-side movement by using spacers to center the trigger. I used 5/16" OD x 3/16" L (#10 ID) for the left side and a 5/16" OD x 3/8" L (#10 ID) for the right. A little sanding and they hold the trigger rock solid in the center. I ordered PN's 67713032 & 67713156 from MSCDirect.com. For more information see my thread: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=7937. Larry Edited February 4, 2008 by LESchwartz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 It is normal for the bolt to bind when released slowly. The unconverted ones do this also. Less so as it gets worn in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LESchwartz 9 Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Too much side-to-side movement can cause FCG components to bind -- which is bad. Sorry for not being more clear: By binding I meant that the hammer can bind on the tigger hooks. Larry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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