Rustynuts 3 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Is it a RULE you have to sand/bead blast the old finish off before refinishing? Or can I just sand the crap out of it? Using Norrell's moly resin if it matters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leo.Kermes 1 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Is it a RULE you have to sand/bead blast the old finish off before refinishing? Or can I just sand the crap out of it? Using Norrell's moly resin if it matters. sand blasting is just faster than sanding by hand. be sure to degrease and bake it to clean off any oil from your hands. good luck with your finish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tatactical 0 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 (edited) I have done both used sand paper and sandblasted. You get much better results with sandbasting, more even surface. As mention it can be done with sandpaper, it is just a pain in the butt. Also if you blast, make sure you use an abrasive, not glass beads. The surface needs to be a little rough for the resin to bond. Edited March 5, 2008 by tatactical Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rustynuts 3 Posted March 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 When you sand does it have to be down to white metal, or do you just knock it down some and rough up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leo.Kermes 1 Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 When you sand does it have to be down to white metal, or do you just knock it down some and rough up? I go bare metal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Abrasive blasting gives the finish material a good base to adhear to. Some also like to parkerize after blasting, then spray finish. I am very pro MolyResin and have used it several times on a variety of gun parts and have never had problems with it not sticking. I pre-wash in MEK, then abrasive blast, then wash down one more time with MEK just before spraying to remove any grit and residual oil. You can probably overspray without blasting, but good results are usually from good prep work. Also, MolyResin uses MEK as a base. MEK is some nasty shit and could possibly attack the factory finish. I've never tested it to see if it will do anything to a Saiga, but I can say that it stripped the factory ffinish off my Tantal kit like it was nothing. Other things to do with MolyResin is to make sure you preheat to atleast 100 degrees (oven heat, halogen lights, heat gun, etc), and make sure you bake at around 300 degrees after spraying to cure it and you'll never have any durrability problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aubie515 2 Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 It is referred to as "in the white" when you blast the old finish...what's left is a white color. Did you already buy Norrells? I have used Norrells and I have found that KG Gunkote is better. It doesn't smell as bad as Norrell's and there are more color options. I have heard nothing but bad things about Norrell's tan finish. I have used the FDE from KG on my XD and it has been as durable as the Norrells I have sprayed on my other firearms. Only tip I can give to you when refinishing is...prepping is the most important step in the process. Also, keep in mind that the parts must reach the temperature of 300 degrees and baked for an hour...what that means is it will take longer than 1 hour to fully cure. If you are baking plastic...you should reduce the heat to 250 and bake for 1.5 hours. A little moly resin goes a long way, so spray in layers and don't try to coat the parts all at once. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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