Duracoat on Saiga-12

[OC80mg 0]

What type of finish is on a factory Saiga-12? Would a matte black duracoat work good? If not, what other types of duracoat would work good to re-finish the gun?

[aubie515 2]

There is a reason why Tony uses Norrell's on his Tromix builds. He and I agree that when the S12 is being fired a lot, that the metal will heat up pretty fast. I'd advise to use a thermal cured product over Duracoat but YMMV.

[wally 2]

you have to remove ALL the old finish in order for any new coating to work,the bake on is the only thing I would put on the barrel

[OC80mg 0]

I was thinking of putting the duracoat on and baking it in the oven, from what I've heard duracoat will harden at 160-180 degrees. From the following duracoat colors, which one would look the best or the most similar to a Saiga-12 finish?

Duracoat Colors

 

I was also thinking about using GunKote

[Gunfixr 76]

I Duracoated mine in stealth gray, and it's been fine.

 

You can cook it, though. I have an AR that I did, and five 30 rd. mags, one right after the other, turned the barrel a dark brown. It hasn't come off, though.

[SpaceGhost 0]

I have used Duracoat on many guns including compensators on IPSC pistols and have experienced no problem with heat. I have duracoated my Saiga too. The key is proper prep, it will adhere well to parkerized finishes on other finishes I blast it first with silicon carbide which provides a good surface.

 

I have baked pieces at low heat 130 - 140 between coats and find that 30 - 60 minutes will set it up well. However, heat is not necessary if you are willing to wait 24 hours to reassemble or recoat. Duracoat is usually dry to the touch fairly quickly and goes on very smoothly will little buildup.

Edited July 17, 2008 by SpaceGhost

[OC80mg 0]

I have used Duracoat on many guns including compensators on IPSC pistols and have experienced no problem with heat. I have duracoated my Saiga too. The key is proper prep, it will adhere well to parkerized finishes on other finishes I blast it first with silicon carbide which provides a good surface.

 

I have baked pieces at low heat 130 - 140 between coats and find that 30 - 60 minutes will set it up well. However, heat is not necessary if you are willing to wait 24 hours to reassemble or recoat. Duracoat is usually dry to the touch fairly quickly and goes on very smoothly will little buildup.

 

Could I use duracoat to touch up the where the finish is scratched or scuffed of or would the only legitimate way to do this is to sand blast the whole thing and repaint it with duracoat? Thanks.

[mutineer 0]

You could just do a small area and then if it comes off do it again. The best way to do it would be to strip it down and redo the entire thing. I've done dura coat on my Saigas and some other AKs and it's held up ok. I think that I'm going to try Norrells next time

[IPSC_GUY 3]

I have done quite a bit of refinishing with both Duracoat and Gunkote.

 

1. Duracoat is a two part epoxy based paint. It is durable due to the epoxy componet. It cures rather than dries and the low heat others have mentioned speeds up the process. It will create a durable finish.

 

2. Gunkote and Norrels Molyresin are spray on coatings that requires significant heat (at least 275 to 300 degrees for an hour) to "bake in" to the pores of the metal also creating a durable finish

 

A small note here, for plastic parts such as stocks, I have gotten away with 200 degrees for 2 hours and had it work just fine.

 

With either product surface prep is key. I sand blast what ever I am going to use with SAND (you need to wear a respirator when doing this even in a blast booth as the fine silica dust is hazardous) the sand is jagged and actually cuts into the surface. This provides the coating a better "grip" as it were. Do NOT use glass beads as this will create a rough feeling surface but under a microscope it will reveal that the surface has only been dimpled smooth, not cut.

 

Next degrease, then degrease some more. Did I mention degreasing? I use straight up acetone to get all of the oil off I can. After degreasing I never handle anything with bare fingers again. Many pairs of Nitrile gloves are gone through doing this.

 

Then spray and bake. I use a simple little badger airbrush and my kitchen oven.

 

Good luck and if you have any questions,

 

Please feel free to ask. Here are some photo examples of each;

 

A gunkoted Flat Dark Earth Flashlight

 

 

A Gunkoted light Olive Green (custom mixed color) flashlight

 

 

My Duracoted 2011 in Olive Green

 

 

A Noveske based M4 in flat Gray with Gunkoted furniture in Olive Green.

 

 

These give you an idea of what the two products look like. IMHO the gunkote is a "flatter" appearing finish.

 

My Saiga 12 is either going to get done in a Dark Gray Gunkote or all Flat Dark Earth. Haven't decided yet.

 

IPSC_GUY

SIERRA II ALPHA

 

Edited July 30, 2008 by IPSC_GUY

[DFinch516 0]

I used Duracoat on my S20 conversion. I used sandpaper to blend painted to bare surfaces, degreased the whole thing and lightly sanded the painted surfaces. I put the gun in the oven @110 deg. for 1/2 hour. The finish is extremely tough and very easy to apply.