.223 Muzzle Device

[auburn 1]

When I did my x39 conversion, I put on a new AK74 FSB and brake. I ready to finish my .223 conversion and was wondering if this plan will work? I read somewhere that the barrel diameter varies on .223's???? What have you guys done with yours? Thx!

[bshoop13 0]

I have used a bulgarian ak-74 fsb on my .223. the dimensions on the .223barrel is slightly bigger then the inside diameter of the fsb so you will have to ream out the I.D. just a hair.

[imarangemaster 315]

I used an M16A1 flash hider on mine. When I cut back the shroud on the Saiga 223 muzzle, I found it was dead on at 9/16". I drilled out the flash hider (first part way, but then all the way) and put it on with two set screws set into dimples on the muzzle. Here is the cook book post of my efforts with picture. You could also use an M16A2, or a three prong. The M16 FH is very effective, and seems to work well on the Saiga, too. It does not increase the blast like some of the AK74 breaks seem to. It was easy if you have a drill press, the 9/16 drill was $10, the tap and drill for the set screws was about $10 too. Threading the muzzle is a pain in the butt and easy to screw up. This also allows it to be returned to "unthreaded" politically correct status.

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=33280

 

 

Edited January 11, 2009 by imarangemaster

[nalioth 405]

The M16 FH is very effective, and seems to work well on the Saiga, too. It does not increase the blast like some of the AK74 breaks seem to.

. . . and there's no reason it should.

 

Muzzle brakes are designed to reduce recoil.

 

Flash hiders (what you are showing us in your post) are designed to disperse muzzle flash.

 

Two totally different design parameters, with wholly different operating principles.

[auburn 1]

I used an M16A1 flash hider on mine. When I cut back the shroud on the Saiga 223 muzzle, I found it was dead on at 9/16". I drilled out the flash hider (first part way, but then all the way) and put it on with two set screws set into dimples on the muzzle. Here is the cook book post of my efforts with picture. You could also use an M16A2, or a three prong. The M16 FH is very effective, and seems to work well on the Saiga, too. It does not increase the blast like some of the AK74 breaks seem to. It was easy if you have a drill press, the 9/16 drill was $10, the tap and drill for the set screws was about $10 too. Threading the muzzle is a pain in the butt and easy to screw up. This also allows it to be returned to "unthreaded" politically correct status.

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=33280

I tried a pin-on brake on my other Saiga. I spent a lot of time chasing it downrange! Does yours stay secure?

Edited January 11, 2009 by Auburn

[imarangemaster 315]

I used an M16A1 flash hider on mine. When I cut back the shroud on the Saiga 223 muzzle, I found it was dead on at 9/16". I drilled out the flash hider (first part way, but then all the way) and put it on with two set screws set into dimples on the muzzle. Here is the cook book post of my efforts with picture. You could also use an M16A2, or a three prong. The M16 FH is very effective, and seems to work well on the Saiga, too. It does not increase the blast like some of the AK74 breaks seem to. It was easy if you have a drill press, the 9/16 drill was $10, the tap and drill for the set screws was about $10 too. Threading the muzzle is a pain in the butt and easy to screw up. This also allows it to be returned to "unthreaded" politically correct status.

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=33280

I tried a pin-on brake on my other Saiga. I spent a lot of time chasing it downrange! Does yours stay secure?

 

 

Mine is secure. Muzzle breaks have an exit hole slightly larger than the bullet diameter. The all have a chamber between barrel muzzle and the break exit hole. THis allows the 50,000 psi blast wave to expand, hit the rear face of the break exit, and push against it. I had this problem initially with the flash hider, because I did not drill it 9/16 all the way through into the bridcage area with its open front. WIth it drilled all the way through, there is no rear face for the blast wave to hit. I have a set screw at 6 O'clock and 12 O'Clock, and they ere set into shallow dimples drilled slightly into the barrel. ROck solid, and did not offer to "go down range".

[nalioth 405]

I have a set screw at 6 O'clock and 12 O'Clock, and they ere set into shallow dimples drilled slightly into the barrel. ROck solid, and did not offer to "go down range".

The above is the key so many folks don't do. If you have a brake that uses set screws, drilling small divots in your barrel shroud or barrel will allow the set screws to hold very well.

[auburn 1]

I have a set screw at 6 O'clock and 12 O'Clock, and they ere set into shallow dimples drilled slightly into the barrel. ROck solid, and did not offer to "go down range".

The above is the key so many folks don't do. If you have a brake that uses set screws, drilling small divots in your barrel shroud or barrel will allow the set screws to hold very well.

I dimpled my x39 barrel and used 3 set screws to hold an AK74 brake. I could never get it to hold more than a few rounds before it flew off.. Maybe the pressure in a break is higher than in a FH?

[imarangemaster 315]

Much higher. The break by design has a rear face that the 50,000 psi blast wave hits against, and is diverted out side or top holes. The flash hider is totally open in the front, with no rear face at all for the wave to hit, if you drill it through to the flash hider area itself. Mine hasn'r budged since my modification.