Rear Trigger Guard Rivet

[crick 0]

I've searched and dug through the posts, and never seen this topic addressed. As I understand it, normally the rear trigger guard rivet has a thick head inside the receiver to contact the bottom of the trigger disconnect. I further understand from research that without this big-headed rivet, trigger slap can be a problem. So, should the trigger guard be riveted with the proper rear rivet after moving it forward?

[nalioth 405]

I've searched and dug through the posts, and never seen this topic addressed. As I understand it, normally the rear trigger guard rivet has a thick head inside the receiver to contact the bottom of the trigger disconnect. I further understand from research that without this big-headed rivet, trigger slap can be a problem. So, should the trigger guard be riveted with the proper rear rivet after moving it forward?

I think you're doing too much research.

 

I used an 8/32" x 1/4"cap head screw with a backing lock washer and nut and have no issues with "trigger slap".

 

 

 

Where did you read this? How many folks corroborated it?

 

 

One person reporting it doesn't make it universal.

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

My Tapco G2 conversion on my .223 does not have any "slap" in it. It releases and that's all folks. BTW, I just have a small hex head machine bolt in there as some bolts and nust assortment I got from Carolina Shooters Supply. Works very well. I did "stake" it after it was in there well, and will probably have to replace the whole machine screw/nut should I ever have to take it out.

[crick 0]

I've searched and dug through the posts, and never seen this topic addressed. As I understand it, normally the rear trigger guard rivet has a thick head inside the receiver to contact the bottom of the trigger disconnect. I further understand from research that without this big-headed rivet, trigger slap can be a problem. So, should the trigger guard be riveted with the proper rear rivet after moving it forward?

I think you're doing too much research.

 

I used an 8/32" x 1/4"cap head screw with a backing lock washer and nut and have no issues with "trigger slap".

 

 

 

Where did you read this? How many folks corroborated it?

 

 

One person reporting it doesn't make it universal.

 

Nalioth,

 

Thx for the quick reply. I didn't see it on this forum. I haven't been able to find it again, so I'm not sure where it came from. I remember someone selling a FCG talked about it, and went so far as to say that an AK receiver without said big-headed rivet under the disconnect was not in 'compliance', whatever that means. It appears, from your experience and other on this forum, it's not needed. I may put it cake with the big-headed rivet, as it's abailable, and I wanted to rivet the relocated trigger guard anyway.

[nalioth 405]

Nalioth,

 

Thx for the quick reply. I didn't see it on this forum. I haven't been able to find it again, so I'm not sure where it came from. I remember someone selling a FCG talked about it, and went so far as to say that an AK receiver without said big-headed rivet under the disconnect was not in 'compliance', whatever that means. It appears, from your experience and other on this forum, it's not needed. I may put it cake with the big-headed rivet, as it's abailable, and I wanted to rivet the relocated trigger guard anyway.

Sounds crazy to me.

 

"Compliance" because you've not got a big bolt/rivet?

 

Let me guess - they just happened to sell these "big rivets"?

 

As we see on GunJoker every day - salesman will tell you all manner of crap to sell their stuff.

[crick 0]

Guys, after actually DOING the conversion, it turns out the disconnect on the Tapco G2 single hook FCG doesn't even extend back to where the big-headed rivet would be. Like you guys said, non issue. Thanks for your advice. BTW, it's done, at least the new internals, stock and PG. Haven't decided what to do with the forearm. I'd like to put traditional AK100 stuff on, but hate the thought of adding the split, screw-held retainer. Do they hold well enough?

[nalioth 405]

Do they hold well enough?

 

Define "well enough".

 

Do you plan on it supporting your weight after you fall over the cliff and the AK gets wedged in a tree?

 

 

If not, I've seen or heard ZERO complaints about it.

[blfuller 2]

The big head rivet you speak of is primarily found on Arsenal (of Las Vegas) rifles. This rivet head is to work in conjunction with their no-slap trigger group. Typically you use a standard rivet with the head pointing down and you musroom the shank of the rivet inside the receiver. On the Arsenal guns the fat head rivet, which has a cylindrical head instead of the domed head, goes on the inside of the receiver and the shank that sticks out by the trigger guard is mushroomed.

 

I think only the Arsenal trigger group will interface with the cylindrical head rivet. Note the little ledge on the rear of the sear, this bumps up against the cylindrical rivet.

 

Here's the rivet...

[crick 0]

The big head rivet you speak of is primarily found on Arsenal (of Las Vegas) rifles. This rivet head is to work in conjunction with their no-slap trigger group. Typically you use a standard rivet with the head pointing down and you musroom the shank of the rivet inside the receiver. On the Arsenal guns the fat head rivet, which has a cylindrical head instead of the domed head, goes on the inside of the receiver and the shank that sticks out by the trigger guard is mushroomed.

 

I think only the Arsenal trigger group will interface with the cylindrical head rivet. Note the little ledge on the rear of the sear, this bumps up against the cylindrical rivet.

 

Here's the rivet...

The rifle that started this thread was, AFAIK, a standard Saiga 7.62x39, straight from the factory. I bought it new in box from a local gun shop. It had the fat-headed rivet under the trigger group, and the disconnect had the extended end which contacted to rivet head.