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About blfuller

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  1. Nope. I just tried it on my 16" saiga 308. Too tight on the exterior base of the barrel. I marked it up trying. Maybe you could get it on there if you didn't mind bending the heat shield, but I didn't want something on there that tight. I came to the conclusion that I'd only be able to get it on there with a mallet. I hope this is useful information. So are you saying the chamber area of the barrel is too fat to fit into the aluminum sub chassis on the Zhukov? Would the barrel clamps attach OK to the barrel? Post some pics if you could.
  2. Alumahyde II works well. If you have access to a bead blaster cabinet that would work the best using aluminum oxide then soak them in a phosphoric acid solution like Prep and Etch from Home Depot or Lowes. After that coat them with the Alumahyde. Even better use GunKote and spray and bake. Don't waste your money on the Krylon stuff, solvents will dissolve that stuff in short order.
  3. When will the 20 rounders for the Saiga 308 be available again, site shows none in stock. What happend to the nitrided mag, are they no longer offered?
  4. How the heck do you edit postings these days?
  5. Just make sure if you want the point of impact to move to the left, you want to move the front sight post to the right. This would be opposite to what the windage adjustment on a rear sight would be.
  6. EAA import Saiga 308 with Ace AR folder adapter, Magpul CTR stock with cheek riser & ASAP sling attachment, Hogue grip, Surefire forearm. Scope is a Belarus 6X. I need to get something on the end of the barrel.
  7. I would like to suggest black manganese phosphate for a finish. And if one were so inclined they could use GunKote or Moly Resin to paint them to match whatever finish they have on thieir rifle. The manganese phosphate is far superior to black oxide for corrosion resistance. The phosphate has a spongelike structure to it and the oil is absorbed into it.
  8. Only thing I'd use grease on the AK is the cam lobe on the bolt and its slot in the carrier. I'm sure you could use most any grease you like. Everyone probably has their own personal preference.
  9. Do the .223 Saiga's at CFS have the mag dimples? The one on the website does not. Anyone got one from them lately and are they with or without mag dimples? Thanks.
  10. That's the way I do mine. But I use the flat steel surface of a tablesaw. Either way it works.
  11. Sorry about the confusion here. I updated some shipping costs on the small parts, the problem should be resolved for this type of an order. Thanks for fixing that. Order has been placed.
  12. Why's the shipping so expensive? For example shipping on a complete mag is 5.95 which is reasonable. You add a single mag base plate and it goes to 10.95. Add a rebuild kit and it goes to 15.85. Add a follower and you are at $20.80 for shipping. Is there something wrong with shipping calculator for online purchases?
  13. Moderator please delete.
  14. Just don't get it wet. Maybe some plywood might work better.
  15. The big head rivet you speak of is primarily found on Arsenal (of Las Vegas) rifles. This rivet head is to work in conjunction with their no-slap trigger group. Typically you use a standard rivet with the head pointing down and you musroom the shank of the rivet inside the receiver. On the Arsenal guns the fat head rivet, which has a cylindrical head instead of the domed head, goes on the inside of the receiver and the shank that sticks out by the trigger guard is mushroomed. I think only the Arsenal trigger group will interface with the cylindrical head rivet. Note the little ledge on
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