Side Rail Mount Removal

[theplastik 67]

I am trying to remove this side mount so I can fab up a Left Side Charging Handle.

 

Can any of you out there post pics of yours and tell me how you did it?

 

I was considering actually just removing the left and center rivets and cutting it to just before the last rivet. Would this still be structurally sound?

 

 

Any input would be great. Thanks.

[Nailbomb 10,221]

Step 1:Drill out the left 2 in the pic you show there.

Step 2: dremil head off the one to the far right.

step 3: remove side mount(may have to pry a bit)

step 4: Put metal in behind far right rivet and peen remainding bit to preserve third rivet.

Step 5: Using brass backing weld other 2 holes up(ensuring your not welding FCG holes up)

Step 6: clean welds

step 7: refinish.

 

theres some pics of this process in THIS thread.

[theplastik 67]

Step 1:Drill out the left 2 in the pic you show there.

Step 2: dremil head off the one to the far right.

step 3: remove side mount(may have to pry a bit)

step 4: Put metal in behind far right rivet and peen remainding bit to preserve third rivet.

Step 5: Using brass backing weld other 2 holes up(ensuring your not welding FCG holes up)

Step 6: clean welds

step 7: refinish.

 

theres some pics of this process in THIS thread.

 

Yes, perfect. That's exactly what I was looking for, but how do I "peen" it?

Just a ball peen hammer?

I was considering getting a large punch and creating a rounding "divet" in it to form the ends of rivets.

How do I brace the inside of the receiver?

 

Also an issue is how to weld.

I want to get a welder soon but I'm not sure which kind.

I have a few years of experience in arc/stick welding but have very little experience with wire fed/mig/tig.

 

Any suggestions? I would prefer a "gas" less type of welding.

I want to limit the amount of volatile stuff in my garage.

Edited July 26, 2010 by theplastik

[Nailbomb 10,221]

Yes, perfect. That's exactly what I was looking for, but how do I "peen" it?

Just a ball peen hammer?

I was considering getting a large punch and creating a rounding "divet" in it to form the ends of rivets.

How do I brace the inside of the receiver?

 

Also an issue is how to weld.

I want to get a welder soon but I'm not sure which kind.

I have a few years of experience in arc/stick welding but have very little experience with wire fed/mig/tig.

 

Any suggestions? I would prefer a "gas" less type of welding.

I want to limit the amount of volatile stuff in my garage.

I cut a piece of 3/8 plate to snugly fit inside the reciever for a brace. I used a smallish ball peen hammer to tap the rivet and mushroom it out to form a new head. Rivets are kindof maleable.

 

You can get away with a lot using a wire fed MIG welder and some flux core welding wire. It burns similar to stick rod, but its a lot thinner, so its easier to controll heat.

 

I would practice a lot to get comfortable befor welding on your own gun. Maybe buy a reciever flat to practice on?

[theplastik 67]

Yes, perfect. That's exactly what I was looking for, but how do I "peen" it?

Just a ball peen hammer?

I was considering getting a large punch and creating a rounding "divet" in it to form the ends of rivets.

How do I brace the inside of the receiver?

 

Also an issue is how to weld.

I want to get a welder soon but I'm not sure which kind.

I have a few years of experience in arc/stick welding but have very little experience with wire fed/mig/tig.

 

Any suggestions? I would prefer a "gas" less type of welding.

I want to limit the amount of volatile stuff in my garage.

I cut a piece of 3/8 plate to snugly fit inside the reciever for a brace. I used a smallish ball peen hammer to tap the rivet and mushroom it out to form a new head. Rivets are kindof maleable.

 

You can get away with a lot using a wire fed MIG welder and some flux core welding wire. It burns similar to stick rod, but its a lot thinner, so its easier to controll heat.

 

I would practice a lot to get comfortable befor welding on your own gun. Maybe buy a reciever flat to practice on?

 

Thanks nailbomb. I have seen some of your work on here and admire your perfection.

This is what I needed to get going with this project.

Appreciate it.

[Nailbomb 10,221]

Thanks nailbomb. I have seen some of your work on here and admire your perfection.

This is what I needed to get going with this project.

Appreciate it.

Good now start a thread and record what you did and what you learned along the way.

 

My thread is good documentation of a build, But its not exacly a proper tutorial.

 

Lots of pics!

 

BTW: perfection happens when you have someone to check your work... While drinking and building that gun I almost welded a FCG hole shut, thats why I mentioned it in the above directions!

[theplastik 67]

Thanks nailbomb. I have seen some of your work on here and admire your perfection.

This is what I needed to get going with this project.

Appreciate it.

Good now start a thread and record what you did and what you learned along the way.

 

My thread is good documentation of a build, But its not exacly a proper tutorial.

 

Lots of pics!

 

BTW: perfection happens when you have someone to check your work... While drinking and building that gun I almost welded a FCG hole shut, thats why I mentioned it in the above directions!

 

I may just remove it and put some plugs in for the time being.

I'm still mulling over how best to redo the rivet. Hmm...

 

I will probably get in to welding later when I have more spare time.

 

Good thing I recently invested in a new camera.

Edited July 27, 2010 by theplastik

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Last one I did I did just as nailbomb was saying, but instead of using a ball peen hammer, I backed it up with a steel insert between the inside rivet heads, laid it flat on an anvil with a divot for the rivet head on that side, and smacked it a few times with a 2 lb sledge, and another tool I made for bucking rivets. The tool is basically a piece of steel bar 1" x 1/2" x 4" or so, with a half spherical divot made into the end of it. I just used hole plugs for the time being and they worked fine.

 

[theplastik 67]

Last one I did I did just as nailbomb was saying, but instead of using a ball peen hammer, I backed it up with a steel insert between the inside rivet heads, laid it flat on an anvil with a divot for the rivet head on that side, and smacked it a few times with a 2 lb sledge, and another tool I made for bucking rivets. The tool is basically a piece of steel bar 1" x 1/2" x 4" or so, with a half spherical divot made into the end of it. I just used hole plugs for the time being and they worked fine.

 

Yeah, that's pretty much the type of tool I was thinking of making for this.

I may just get one of my old broken punches and put a divot in the end.

What's the best way to put a divot in? What type of drill bit could I use?

I'm going to try the Dremel with the rounded stone bit and see how much progress I can make.

 

Thanks so much for the input.

 

I'm going to get this up and going tomorrow.

I'll probably take pictures and do a tutorial if there already isn't one.

 

Well, so long as I don't royally fuck it up, I'll post up a tutorial.

Edited July 27, 2010 by theplastik

[jimdigriz 580]

Step 2: dremil head off the one to the far right.

step 4: Put metal in behind far right rivet and peen remainding

 

Why not drill out the rivet entirely and install a new one? I'd rather not have to beat on my receiver in such as a way as to have to brace it inside.

[akastormi 617]

Like they said above. For one rivet it's not cost effective to get or make a rivet tool. If you can find a dimple head punch they work good. You can make one also, round stock or square and drill a @5/32 dimple in the end. Just start slow, and try to dimple outwards first so you don't loosen the rivet in the receiver/ trunnion

[jimdigriz 580]

Like they said above. For one rivet it's not cost effective to get or make a rivet tool.

 

Did I miss something? I re-read the thread and didn't find such a discussion.

 

Rivet guns are fairly cheap. I've never used them before, but the process sounds simple from what I've read. What am I missing?

 

Thanks.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Like they said above. For one rivet it's not cost effective to get or make a rivet tool.

 

Did I miss something? I re-read the thread and didn't find such a discussion.

 

Rivet guns are fairly cheap. I've never used them before, but the process sounds simple from what I've read. What am I missing?

 

Thanks.

 

Fortunately I already had the rivet tools I needed...made them 5 years or so ago and have used them on all my conversions to properly install the TGs.

 

Jim if you are referring to the kind of 'rivet guns' that are widely available in home improvement stores and the like, there is a huge difference between those (pop rivets) and real steel rivets. These must be pressed or bucked with a hammer or impact tool. They squash to completely fill the hole on the inside, and also mushroom out on the small end to keep them from ever coming loose or backing out. This is why they are far superior to any other form of joining two parts together on an AK receiver. (yes.... including welding in many people's opinions, obviously including Mikhail Kalashnikov himself).

 

[akastormi 617]

Bolt cutter rivet tool;

[jimdigriz 580]

Bolt cutter rivet tool;

 

Sorry, what is this for?

[jimdigriz 580]

Fortunately I already had the rivet tools I needed...made them 5 years or so ago and have used them on all my conversions to properly install the TGs.

 

Jim if you are referring to the kind of 'rivet guns' that are widely available in home improvement stores and the like, there is a huge difference between those (pop rivets) and real steel rivets. These must be pressed or bucked with a hammer or impact tool. They squash to completely fill the hole on the inside, and also mushroom out on the small end to keep them from ever coming loose or backing out. This is why they are far superior to any other form of joining two parts together on an AK receiver. (yes.... including welding in many people's opinions, obviously including Mikhail Kalashnikov himself).

 

Hmmm...bummer then. I thought riveting might be easier, since I didn't (and don't) really understand exactly what people were using to brace the receiver.

Edited July 27, 2010 by Jim Digriz

[akastormi 617]

There used for setting Trunion rivets.

You use a bucking plate to hold the head and squeeze the steel rivets

[theplastik 67]

There used for setting Trunion rivets.

You use a bucking plate to hold the head and squeeze the steel rivets

http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK/rivet/boltcutters/DSCN3691.JPG

 

I thought of getting a set of those.

They're fairly cheap and go on a cheap set of 18 inch bolt cutters.

But, as Stormi said, I don't know if I'll ever need to set rivets again, so it's a lot of trouble (and more money than necessary) for one rivet...

 

But if I do a big job, I'll probably get those bolt cutter heads for it.

 

Check my Tutorial.

I figured out my own way to do it.

I could probably have a set of C Clamps dedicated for rivets, if I could find a set I trusted enough to not get mangled over 1 rivet job.

 

I went out searching today actually for a large set made of strong material.

I remembered back in the day at one of my old jobs, I used to use a set that was large and actually had an elongated Bolt head on the end so you can use a ratchet and socket, but alas... no dice.

It would be perfect for more jobs of this kind if I found a set.

 

Anyway, job complete. Thanks everyone for the great input.

[jimdigriz 580]

Sorry for being dense, guys, but could someone please explain further (or even better, show a picture) about how to brace the receiver? That's the part that I'm just not getting.

 

Thanks.

[theplastik 67]

Sorry for being dense, guys, but could someone please explain further (or even better, show a picture) about how to brace the receiver? That's the part that I'm just not getting.

 

Thanks.

 

Damn, I guess I left that out. I have and used a "Gun Vice".

 

I bought mine for $50.00 at Dick's Sporting Goods. It's well worth the investment if you have or intend on owning 2 or more long firearms.

 

It's basically a low stress vice with rubber plates to protect the weapon while "operating".

 

A standard vice will work but you must use wood blocks or some type of soft material to protect the weapon from scratches. Before I had the gun vice, I used a regular vice with wood blocks wrapped in some spare cloth (fleece, I believe). That worked just fine too.

 

Edited July 30, 2010 by theplastik