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Shroud removal and threads


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So, I'm a huge noob. Converted the trigger group no prob(thanks to dinzag parts), anyway I have removed the shroud on the end of the barrel (not without difficulty), i bought the 74 style break 14x1 threaded extra deep from dinzag. Now that the shroud is removed I can see that the threads only go so far down and the barrel diameter get slightly wider, the break won't go down any further. Do I need to thread it the rest of the way down? Also I knicked the barrel where the shroud meets the FSB ever so slightly with the circular cutter , that shouldn't ruin anything right ? I mean it's not even near as deep as the threads. And one more question, the front edge of the FSB looks kinda shoddy where I cut it with the dreml how would you recommend smoothing it out and cleaning it up so it doesn't look like an incompetent fool did it? I'll post pics when i get home even though it's embarrassing

Edited by CHOP SUEY
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First things first, toss out that hunk of dead weight AK-74 style brake. It's not a good design at all and will not help with reducing recoil. Here is a comparison of it to a real brake.

 

On the bright side, all you need is an actual AK-74 brake and a 14x1 to 24x1.5mm thread adapter and you can use the real muzzle brake. The adapters can be found at Apex Gun Parts website. If you want, you could change the entire front sight block for an AK-74 one, it's not too hard to do and I'd recommend just going that route. But that's up to you.

 

As for cleaning up the cuts, I'd recommend using some small files to smooth out where you may have nicked/gashed with the dremel and then touch it up with Duplicolor 500 low gloss black, it's a good match to the factory paint and works nice for touch up.

 

Also, no need to be embarrassed about anything, shit happens and there's very little you can do to these guns to make them stop working right.

Edited by Classy Kalashnikov
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So, I'm a huge noob. Converted the trigger group no prob(thanks to dinzag parts), anyway I have removed the shroud on the end of the barrel (not without difficulty), i bought the 74 style break 14x1 threaded extra deep from dinzag. Now that the shroud is removed I can see that the threads only go so far down and the barrel diameter get slightly wider, the break won't go down any further. Do I need to thread it the rest of the way down? Also I knicked the barrel where the shroud meets the FSB ever so slightly with the circular cutter , that shouldn't ruin anything right ? I mean it's not even near as deep as the threads. And one more question, the front edge of the FSB looks kinda shoddy where I cut it with the dreml how would you recommend smoothing it out and cleaning it up so it doesn't look like an incompetent fool did it? I'll post pics when i get home even though it's embarrassing

 

 

I cut mine all the way back to the fsb also. I bought a extra deep Phanton FH from Dinzag, and when I realized the same thing you did, that I had a 1/2 inch unthreaded piece there before the threads, I e-mailed Dinzag. He let me send it back, and bored it out so the first 1/2" goes over the unthreaded part, and snugs up to the fsb. He did it for only a few bucks, too....theres pix in my gallery...

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So, I'm a huge noob. Converted the trigger group no prob(thanks to dinzag parts), anyway I have removed the shroud on the end of the barrel (not without difficulty), i bought the 74 style break 14x1 threaded extra deep from dinzag. Now that the shroud is removed I can see that the threads only go so far down and the barrel diameter get slightly wider, the break won't go down any further. Do I need to thread it the rest of the way down? Also I knicked the barrel where the shroud meets the FSB ever so slightly with the circular cutter , that shouldn't ruin anything right ? I mean it's not even near as deep as the threads. And one more question, the front edge of the FSB looks kinda shoddy where I cut it with the dreml how would you recommend smoothing it out and cleaning it up so it doesn't look like an incompetent fool did it? I'll post pics when i get home even though it's embarrassing

 

 

To clean up the edge, use the small hose clamp method as a guide and use a "safe side" file (one that has an edge that is smooth) to file back to the hose clamp. should come very clean.

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An AR10 .308 crush washer works (5/8") and can be had from Midway USA. 14mm spark plug crush washers work, also. I bought a $2 spark plug for a lawn mower, took off the crush washer, and it is ready if I choose to use the AMD65 brake. (see my thread on crush washers).

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