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Can someone school me on twist rate and what it means. Which ammo gr is best for each twist rate? Also does .223 tula ammo or any caliber for that matter been know to damage any barrels?

 

Twist rate is the length of rifling to complete a 360 degree turn in the barrel...... For example if you have a twist rate of 1:9 this means that every 9"'s the bullet turns 360 degree's. So if you have a barrel that is 16" in length the bullet turns almost 2 times (1.7 times) before it leaves the barrel... The lower the twist rate the higher the spin, the more the bullet is stable when leaving the barrel...

 

In a 223 the twist rate can go as low as 1:7, this is acceptable for bullet weights of up to 80-90 grains..... I believe that the Saiga's have a 1:9 twist, the max recommended bullet weight for a 1:9 twist is 62 grains for accuracy....

 

I hope this helps.............

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Not that I'm aware off. I used Tula in my AR before I sold it. Use it in my 1911, AK and Saiga 308, along with other mfg's as well. Havnt had a problem.

 

Where did you hear that it damages barrels?

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so anyone know anything about tula ammo?

 

I believe what you are thinking about is that the Russian ammo is steel cased bullets vs. copper cased which is a softer metal and does less damage to the rifling... Well this is true, so you can fire 8000 rounds instead of 10,000 before you have to replace the barrel.... What we have to remember is that these rifles are also made in Russia and they have been making them for quit some time and I am pretty sure that they use pretty good steel for their barrels to reduce the decay of the rifling....

 

I am not a metallurgist and can not test the barrel to see the strength of these barrels.... I have a Chinese SKS built approximately in the late 60's or early 70's, I have put at least 2000 rounds through it and it is still has very strong rifling on her.....

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I ask because i just got an sbr noveske 10.5" 1:7 upper. I dont wanna run ammo through it that will damage it. I love cheap ammo, it was just a shock when i saw how cheap it was at wal mart. I am just not used to seeing that price for ammo anymore. I didnt know if something was wrong with it. Granted what i paid for the upper it should be pretty durable however u never know.

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I ask because i just got an sbr noveske 10.5" 1:7 upper. I dont wanna run ammo through it that will damage it. I love cheap ammo, it was just a shock when i saw how cheap it was at wal mart. I am just not used to seeing that price for ammo anymore. I didnt know if something was wrong with it. Granted what i paid for the upper it should be pretty durable however u never know.

 

 

Nice.... She should handle any grain you feed her, I would look for the Wolf ammo it normally has the copper jacketed cases...... Here is a Wolf 62 gr in copper jacket.... http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=6879&dir=18|830|845

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I ask because i just got an sbr noveske 10.5" 1:7 upper. I dont wanna run ammo through it that will damage it. I love cheap ammo, it was just a shock when i saw how cheap it was at wal mart. I am just not used to seeing that price for ammo anymore. I didnt know if something was wrong with it. Granted what i paid for the upper it should be pretty durable however u never know.

 

I doubt any store or business is knowingly going to sell bad ammo at a discounted price.

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Many AR manufacturers state that firing steel-cased (cartridge casing, not bullet jacket) ammo (and Wolf in particular) through your rifle voids your warranty, but off the top of my head I don't think I've ever heard any actual first-hand reports of steel cased ammo doing any damage to an AR barrel or bolt. My BCM certainly hasn't had any complaints about it. It would be worth checking though if Noveske has anything to say about it in their warranty information.

 

Here is CMMG's statement on the topic; it seems to me that they are of the opinion that Wolf is all defective crap, which is an awfully dismissive attitude:

 

AMMUNITION WARNING

 

With the growing popularity of the AR-15/M16 family of rifles the demand for ammunition has risen sharply. Unfortunately, this has made quality ammunition hard to find. CMMG recommends using only domestic, commercially manufactured ammunition or high quality surplus NATO specification ammunition.

 

Using any reloaded ammunition, any steel cased ammunition or Wolf Ammunition VOIDS your Limited Lifetime Warranty.

 

When purchasing domestically produced ammunition, questions can be answered by contacting the manufacturer directly. They will have the most accurate information about their products. If you have a problem with any ammunition be sure to have the lot number from the packaging that the ammunition in question came from; the manufacturer will need this information.

 

When purchasing surplus ammunition, it is not likely that the manufacturer is known or can be contacted. Most surplus ammunition is not from questionable sources, but some surplus ammunition is from rejected lots that did not meet a required specification. Find out as much as you can or purchase a small sample of the surplus ammunition before purchasing larger quantities.

 

AR-15.com has the Ammo Oracle, and can answer most questions on ammunition. Many message boards will also have posts with reviews on ammunition by members. While these resources do not represent the final authority in ammunition related issues, they serve as a helpful guide for general information concerning various types of ammunition.

 

Before Firing Any Ammunition, inspect each cartridge for defects. Dispose of cartridges that exhibit and of the following defects:

 

* Deformed brass, which includes burrs, cracks, dents, scratches, bent or bowed cases.

* Deformed bullet, which includes burrs, dents and scratches.

* Improperly seated bullets. The case neck should be uniform with no deformations and the bullet should be seated tightly in the case. Check overall length to ensure the bullet is not seated too deeply or has been pushed in from an impact. Some ammunition may have a colored sealant around the case neck.

* Improperly seated primers. The primer should be flush with the base of the case with no visible damage to the primer cup. Some ammunition may have a colored sealant around the primer.

* Corroded cartridges with any amount of metal that is corroded and eaten away.

* Do not fire cartridges exposed to extreme heat (135 degrees F) until they have cooled.

 

Warning Signs

 

Not all defective ammunition has visible traits to distinguish it from good ammunition. If any cartridge from a lot of ammunition exhibits any of the following characteristics, discontinue the use of the entire lot and contact the manufacturer or dispose of the ammunition properly.

 

* Inconsistent function. This can also be a firearm related malfunction. Clean and test the rifle with another source of ammunition. If proper function is restored discontinue the use of the suspect ammunition immediately.

* Blown primers. This is an indication of improper powder charge. Discontinue the use of the suspect ammunition immediately.

* Inconsistent sound. Noticeably louder or quieter reports indicate improper powder charge. Discontinue the use of the suspect ammunition immediately.

* Cartridge fails to chamber. This can also be a firearm related malfunction. Clean and test the rifle with another source of ammunition. If proper function is restored discontinue the use of the suspect ammunition immediately.

 

Other ammunition related problems can occur. If you believe that ammunition you are using is preforming in an inconsistent manner, do not take any chances that you are experiencing a one-off occurrence. Discontinue the use of the suspect ammunition and contact the manufacturer.

 

Your rifle is a sizable investment. Make every effort to use quality ammunition, to ensure your safety and and prolong the life of your firearm for years of enjoyment.

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