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I should be getting my rifle back soon and when i do im going to sight it in. Ive done a bunch of searching but it seems that i always get one of two results. zero from 25m on 100m setting or zero from 25m on 200m setting...

 

which did you guys choose and why

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Not to get too deep into it the way that's taught in Iraq is 21 meters on Battle Zero. 25 Yards is fine also at BZ. If you have a 100 yard range then that on setting one is fine also but start with 25 yards so you will be on paper at 100. The thing is to do it and not worry any more about it.

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This is correct according to the Russian AK manual and I go with it. There has been much debate in the past on the forum by folks who thought they were smarter than General Kalashnikov, but I figure the Russkies have figured it out after sixty three years and about 80 million AKs.

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thats the way i went and when i had my first opportunity to shot at targets standing off hand i was super pleased. Initially, from a bench, I set the sights at 25 then dialed them in at one hundred and put the sight leaf back to Battle sight setting. I went to a new range and tossed some plastic containers out at about 30 yards and bounced them out to about 80 to 100. If i want to bench shoot at 100 i just move the leaf to 100 or 200 setting depending on how far i want shoot. Couldn't be happier. don't get frustrated with dialing in at one hundred. You will be either low or high about 4 to 6 inches can't remember which but it with patience and small incremental adjustments it will happen.

Edited by leadslinger
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Excuse my ignorance but are you sighted in at 25 meters on the 1 setting or all the back on the bz setting? The way I'm reading what your post is you started at 25m on the 1 setting then Fine tuned on 1 setting at 100m. And you were happy with the battle zero setting from 30 to 100 yards?I'm just confused on wether I should be adjusting my front sight on the bz,1, or 2 setting?

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my bad yes, you have the slider on the rear sight leaf at 1 at 25 first. Once its zeroed then move out to a target at(with slider still on 1) 100yads to dial in. Once you have it dialed in then you can move it back to BZ. When i shoot bench and know the distance then you can adjust slider on the rear leaf to the appropriate number (ie 1 for 100 and 2 for 200 and so on). i would be happy with BZ out to 200 as well. Remember BZ is set up so that under battle field conditions you should be able to have COM hits. If you have a known or approximate distance then you can move slider to appropriate number for greater accuracy.

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Good info from you guys. I thought I would post this as I found it helpful myself.

 

FROM GABE SUAREZ:

------------------------------------------------------

 

Zeroing The AK Rifles

I've gotten many emails on this.

 

To zero the Kalashnikov Rifle. Set the rear sight to the "1", or 100 meter marking. Go out to 25 meters. Pace it or measure it. Measuring is better right.

 

Shoot to point of aim/point of impact at 25 meters. Do this from a sandbagged rest. I know we can all hold like a rock at 25, but for sake of uniformity...use a sandbag.

 

To move the point of impact use an AK sight tool. At $15-20 bucks its a bargain. OST may be carrying these soon (Russian ones).

 

To raise the point of impact, rotate the front sight post clockwise

To lower the point of impact, rotate the front sight post counter-clockwise.

 

Once set at 25 meters, verify it and fine tune it at 100 meters. Once zeroed, keep the sight set at the Battle sight zero...or the bottom last setting marked with a letter (mine say "P") and not a number. This will allow you to hit MOH (minute of hadji) out to about 300 or so.

 

It also allows you to use the calibration on the rear sight for the distances marked. For example, you want to hit at 400? raise the ladder to "4" or 400 meters.

 

In reality, I think iron sights are useful to about 250-300 meters. After that, you will likely not see the adversary, or not be able to hit with the limits of iron sights. I am referring to actual field situations and not firng at a fixed un-moving target in a shooting range environment.

 

OK...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FROM ANOTHER POST:

This may Help
Conversion Table Meters to Feet

m
-
Feet

25 - 82

 

50 - 164

 

75 - 246

 

100 - 328

------------

This will help if you have a 100' tape and a place that you can mark distance and shoot.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

also yards to meters

 

25 meters= 27.34 yards

100 meters= 109.36 yards

If you have a 100 yards already marked off somewhere, you can add about 28 feet if you really want to get picky.

 

 

 

 
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To sight in at 100 yards, it must be .85" below POA

 

 

Rng Vel IMP Drp ToF Energy Drift

0 2350 -2 0 0 1521 0

25 2276 -0.85 0.27 0.03 1426 0.52

50 2208 -0.1 0.95 0.07 1342 0.78

75 2141 0.18 2.09 0.1 1262 1.22

100 2075 0 3.7 0.14 1186 1.85

125 2010 -0.69 5.81 0.18 1112 2.67

150 1947 -1.92 8.47 0.21 1044 3.69

175 1885 -3.73 11.7 0.25 978 4.92

200 1824 -6.15 15.55 0.29 916 6.37

225 1765 -9.22 20.04 0.33 858 8.05

250 1707 -13 25.24 0.38 802 9.97

275 1651 -17.52 31.19 0.42 751 12.14

300 1596 -22.85 37.94 0.47 701 14.58

 

To sight in at 200, it is POA at 25 yards:

 

Rng Vel IMP Drop ToF Energy Drift

0 2350 -2 0 0 1521 0

25 2276 -0.08 0.27 0.03 1426 0.52

50 2208 1.44 0.95 0.07 1342 0.78

75 2141 2.49 2.09 0.1 1262 1.22

100 2075 3.07 3.7 0.14 1186 1.85

125 2010 3.16 5.81 0.18 1112 2.67

150 1947 2.69 8.47 0.21 1044 3.69

175 1885 1.65 11.7 0.25 978 4.92

200 1824 0 15.55 0.29 916 6.37

225 1765 -2.3 20.04 0.33 858 8.05

250 1707 -5.31 25.24 0.38 802 9.97

275 1651 -9.06 31.19 0.42 751 12.14

300 1596 -13.62 37.94 0.47 701 14.58

 

With this being said, if you do POA at 25 yards, the rear sight should be on the "200 yard setting (meters). Why have it on 100 with POA on at 25 yards when it is actually 200?????? If you do that, you will actually be 3 inches high at 100. With 25 yard POA, you are 3 high at 100 and out to 5 low at 250, using 200 yard notch.

Edited by imarangemaster
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Yes: .311 Spitzer (not boat tail), 124 grain at 2350 FPS. Here is the source.

 

http://www.handloads.com/calc/

 

After sighting it in 25 yard POA/POI on 200 yard setting, you can move it back to the 100 for shooting close up. I just leave it on 200. Under 200, I use a 6 o'clock hold (i.e. a pop can at 75-100, set the pop can image on top of the front sight).

Edited by imarangemaster
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  • 2 weeks later...

I know AK ammo is cheap so this may not be a huge concern for everyone, but I bought a sightmark laser bore for 7.62x39 and I was super pleased with it. Its useful for making sure your optics are still on zero after everytime you clean the rifle if you have a traditional side mount optic that has to come off to remove dust cover. I put it in the bore and adjusted my red dot to it one night in the darkened hallway of my house (about 35ft). The next day when I shot the rifle put the first two shots in a 1/2in group at about 50 yards. The group was only off bulls eye by a couple inches, I adjusted the scope and I was right in the center with no more than 5 shots spent. Great product for making your AK zeroing worry free

 

Oh yea, I got it at optics planet .com, awesome site

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