Which FCG to use?

[jbanzai 113]

I've been reading up on my various options for which trigger group to use for an upcoming conversion. I initially figured I'd use the Tapco G2 because it's the only one I'm familiar with, but I've read a few reports about them damaging the rear of the bolt. I've used the G2 on a MAK90 that I debanned a while back and haven't noticed a problem, but I haven't looked for any either.

 

So...what are good options for an FCG other than tapco? Is this tapco problem rare? It seems to be, but I'm not very adept at the search function apparently because I not find much info about ANY fcg. How is the KVAR (or is it Red Star) 2-stage trigger? What are some of the benefits or draw backs to it?

Edited September 29, 2011 by jbanzai

[kresk 10,063]

Probably 95% of people use the Tapco FCG. True problems are very uncommon. The Red Star stuff is nice as there are four adjustments possible with it, but they are more expensive.

[Fallschirmjager667 729]

tapco g2 double hook modified to work as an overtravel stop

[jbanzai 113]

Russian Hammer...I gotta admit, I'm lost in your statement. I'm thinking....Saigas are single hook; how would you modify the double hook; what's overtravel stop...the name on this seems relatively self explanatory. If the hammer doesn't over travel, the back of the bolt won't become deformed.

 

I'm wondering if this is a Tapco issue or a Saiga issue. Probably overthinking it, but that's half the fun.

[Fallschirmjager667 729]

let me explain a little better, the overtravel stop keeps the trigger from moving any more after the hammer is released, any motion of the trigger after it releases the hammer is called overtravel. a saiga and most other aks normally use a single hook, but what i and several others have done is get a double hook and grind the second hook so it stops the trigger as soon as the hammer is released, eliminating all overtravel. there is no need to do any receiver modifications, only mods to the trigger. when i get home in a few days i'll take a pic of my trigger and post it for you to see what i've done

[timy 1,185]

Russian Hammer...I gotta admit, I'm lost in your statement. I'm thinking....Saigas are single hook; how would you modify the double hook; what's overtravel stop...the name on this seems relatively self explanatory. If the hammer doesn't over travel, the back of the bolt won't become deformed.

 

I'm wondering if this is a Tapco issue or a Saiga issue. Probably overthinking it, but that's half the fun.

 

I'm another guy who always uses a modified Tapco double hook. It takes a little extra work but the result is well worth it.

 

There's a tab between the hooks that I've had to grind off before I could get the trigger to drop in far enough to insert the trigger axis pin completely. Otherwise the trigger hits the front of the cutout on the receiver. I don't know if other people run into this problem or not but I always seem to.

 

Once you do have the trigger in place, you'll find the trigger won't move. Flip the gun upside down and you'll see why. There's a little notch cut out in the front of the trigger hole on the receiver to allow the single hook to move but since you're using a double hook it hits the receiver on that side. I use a dremmel and start grinding the second hook back where it's hitting the receiver. Do this slowly, removing a little metal at a time. Keep putting the hammer and trigger (without the hammer spring) back in to check your progress. Once you get to the point where you can push the hammer past the hooks on the trigger without using undue pressure, stop grinding. Polish if you want, clean everything up, reassemble with the hammer spring in place, lube it, and try it out. I think you'll be very happy with the results.