moved the FCG with simple tools, VERY pleased

[bdub 6]

Been reading on here for about 6 months, watched all the videos many times and finally worked up the courage to do the thing.

 

Here are all the tools I used:

 

 

No electricity was used at all, except for whatever the computer was using as I would consult it occasionally.

 

 

Drilled rivets out from the inside of the receiver with hand drill, used good 3/16 bit, which was smaller than rivets, so used cold chisel to knock off the remaining, then used 1/8 punch at the trigger guard plate came right off. This is what the inside of receiver looked like when I was done:

 

 

I ordered the modified G2, but decided to not reinstall the BHO, so I put a washer in:

 

 

Putting that little washer in was the only pain really.

 

Painted underside with the 500 degree flat black engine paint and it matches perfect.

 

Took it out in the back yard and fired her, WOW, that trigger is night and day. Everything works perfect, I'm pretty happy.

 

If you take your time, and follow the tutorials exactly, it's hard to mess things up. I've got the dinzag bullet guide already, still debating if I want to drill the trunnion with my hand drill, I actually have a bigger breast drill that would probably do the job just fine.

 

 

Thanks for all the info.

 

I also used http://gunpoints.org/blog/archives/168, and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waj8aLz-xY4

 

UPDATED 1:36 Just installed bullet guide, went very well

 

To continue my manual tool fetish I broke out my breast drill to drill through the trunnion. No problem at all.

 

 

 

Tapped with tool/bit from Dinzag. Took my time, marked with center punch, backed off after 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Lubed up with Marvel Mystery Oil. Screw was a little tight at first, applied more oil went smoothly in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Manually cycled a surplus mag and everything was smooth. Will fire later this afternoon to check all is good then apply blue loctite.

 

UPDATED 5:12 - Went through 30 rounds, 15 in metal mag, 15 in circle 10 mag. Very smooth. Applied loctite. Will sleep well tonight knowing my rig is better than it was before.

Edited November 1, 2011 by bdub

[bikermutt07 10]

Nice little write up. It's nice to know that after the zombie apocalypse we will still be able to convert saigas.

 

I drilled my trunnion with a small rigid drill. I didn't have a center punch handy but I'm good with hand tools. The steel on my trunnion drilled very smooth.

 

On the note of drilling and tapping the trunnion; I have drilled and tapped hundreds of holes as an electrician. You don't need oil for this process. The thing to makes sure to do is simply this. When drilling, stop halfway and back the bit out to clean it off, this helps. When tapping, go no more than a 1\16 to 1\8 of a turn at a time, and back it all the way out of the hole multiple times during your tap (to clean the tap). It will cut much easier.

 

Congrats on your build.

[Bigtwin 219]

Very nice outcome and congrats on the no power tool part! I used a power drill and a dremmel tool to do mine without a hitch and punched out the required parts. But I am used to working with said tools.

I do have a hand drill like yours that collects dust any more, I admire your method!

 

Bikermutt, said it best about the tap though! Those of us that use a tap and die for a living tend to not break shit....as much .vs...when learning to use one!

[modrisco 16]

Compliments on the low-tech approach. Nice work...congratulations! Hopefully your write-up will inspire others to take up this very simple conversion/restoration project. As you note, it's well worth the effort!

[bdub 6]

Thanks for the comments, much appreciated, I updated my post after I installed the bullet guide this afternoon.

[mcgr0172 2]

You said you painted the underside... Did it match up well with the rest of the gun or did you end up painting the whole thing? I am at this step in the process right now and trying to decide how I am going to cover up that newly exposed metal. Thanks much.

[bdub 6]

I used Plastikote flat black 500 degree engine enamel. Masked from mag well forward, sprayed underside and lightly misted around sides. I cant' tell where the original finish stops and my paint begins.