SDRider 7 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) Hi all, I have been lurking this site for quite sometime and I really wanted to thank you all for the wealth of information available to a rookie like me. Anyways, I just purchased my first S12 and have some range time set booked up for this weekend. Do you guys have any good tips on how to break in a new saiga? Another question I have is ammo. Im totally new to the shotgun world and not completely sure which rounds I should start off with buying while the gun is new (specific brands and types would be helpful). My plans are to make sure everything is working as it should and once I have confirmed that I will do the conversion. Thanks in advance! Edited November 14, 2011 by SDRider Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) Hand cycle the weapon for about 10 minutes, violently. There's your "break in". Really, don't waste your money, do it by hand. Do not lube the weapon before you do this. Take a good look at the hammer and underside of the bolt carrier before you do it. A few good before and after pics will give you a pretty good idea of what "break in" does.... almost nothing. Many are firm believers of "break in". IF it were that simple, there would be no market for reliability services on these weapons. I'm not buying it..... or 100s of rounds of Buckshot in a fruitless effort to make a weapon run that will still need some sort of gunsmithing anyway. Before you fire the weapon, lube all friction points on the carrier, bolt, and hammer. Do not lube the gas block, puc, bolt face, or chamber. Find out your weapon's limits. Try the following ammos.... Federal Multi-Purpose Remington Sport Loads Winchester Universal You might even try some #6 or #4 shot as well. Try to stay away from extra light or low recoil loads, other than buck or slugs. Get small boxes of ammo. If your weapon will not run with it, at least you don't have a lot of left over. ....and try some heavier stuff, maybe a box or two of slugs or buckshot. If it doesn't run off of the birdshot, the slugs and buck will let you know if the weapon works at all. Do not forget to set your gas regulator to setting 1 for each load and only change it to setting 2 if it doesn't eject on setting one. The slugs and buck should run fine on setting 1. Welcome aboard!!!! ETA: These weapons can absolutely be made to run with all of the factory springs. The CSS puc seems to work for some problematic guns, though I have never tried it and cannot attest to its benefit. I would try that before low power springs if I weren't as mechanically inclined as I am. Here is some inspiration.... Winchester Universal bulk pack ammo, factory puc, and factory springs. I have done a lot of work to it and it is an extremely smooth machine. Edited November 14, 2011 by evlblkwpnz 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SDRider 7 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) Hand cycle the weapon for about 10 minutes, violently. There's your "break in". Really, don't waste your money, do it by hand. Do not lube the weapon before you do this. Take a good look at the hammer and underside of the bolt carrier before you do it. A few good before and after pics will give you a pretty good idea of what "break in" does.... almost nothing. Many are firm believers of "break in". IF it were that simple, there would be no market for reliability services on these weapons. I'm not buying it..... or 100s of rounds of Buckshot in a fruitless effort to make a weapon run that will still need some sort of gunsmithing anyway. Before you fire the weapon, lube all friction points on the carrier, bolt, and hammer. Do not lube the gas block, puc, bolt face, or chamber. Find out your weapon's limits. Try the following ammos.... Federal Multi-Purpose Remington Sport Loads Winchester Universal You might even try some #6 or #4 shot as well. Try to stay away from extra light or low recoil loads, other than buck or slugs. Get small boxes of ammo. If your weapon will not run with it, at least you don't have a lot of left over. ....and try some heavier stuff, maybe a box or two of slugs or buckshot. If it doesn't run off of the birdshot, the slugs and buck will let you know if the weapon works at all. Do not forget to set your gas regulator to setting 1 for each load and only change it to setting 2 if it doesn't eject on setting one. The slugs and buck should run fine on setting 1. Welcome aboard!!!! ETA: These weapons can absolutely be made to run with all of the factory springs. The CSS puc seems to work for some problematic guns, though I have never tried it and cannot attest to its benefit. I would try that before low power springs if I weren't as mechanically inclined as I am. Here is some inspiration.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejy58DCoYKE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pw7TcP9zXU4 Winchester Universal bulk pack ammo, factory puc, and factory springs. I have done a lot of work to it and it is an extremely smooth machine. Thank you, thank you, and thank you! Your detailed response helped alot and is really appreciated. I just wrote down some of your ammo choices and will see what my local store carries. Im really anxious to see what issues if any that I might run into. Im hoping that right out of the box it will shoot whatever I through at it, but I know this is probably just a dream. I believe the firearm was manufactured in 2011, is it safe to assume that the chances that the porting issues is reduced? I was almost tempted to send the bolt off to Pauly for service, but thought I should wait before adding bling. BTW awesome vids, I have seen those on youtube many times!!! Edited November 14, 2011 by SDRider Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegade331 31 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 How many gas ports do you have? Are there any partially covered? Use a bent paperclip or something similar in size to poke around check. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SDRider 7 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) How many gas ports do you have? Are there any partially covered? Use a bent paperclip or something similar in size to poke around check. I wish I could. The S12 currently sits in 10 day jail, until this friday At this point all I have is a serial number and a photo from my LGS. To check all I have to do is remove the gas regulator, correct? Edited November 14, 2011 by SDRider Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 It appears that more of the 2011 models are somewhat reliable than not. I have been wanting to get my hands on a 2011 and do some testing. Too many other irons in the fire and a long list of things of much greater prority.... supressors, SBRs, etc.. If I could just hit Fantasy 5 or Lotto.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
defcon 21 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 i bought mine in 2011 from CSS. i have to double check if mine was made in 11'. when i was doing the V plug install, i swear i saw 2 gas ports on mine. ill also double check with a paperclip. ive had mine for 2-3 months and i havent even shot mine yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SDRider 7 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 It appears that more of the 2011 models are somewhat reliable than not. I have been wanting to get my hands on a 2011 and do some testing. Too many other irons in the fire and a long list of things of much greater prority.... supressors, SBRs, etc.. If I could just hit Fantasy 5 or Lotto.... Im hoping so, I would be really happy if I could just save the money for the conversion and not on getting it to run on low brass. i bought mine in 2011 from CSS. i have to double check if mine was made in 11'. when i was doing the V plug install, i swear i saw 2 gas ports on mine. ill also double check with a paperclip. ive had mine for 2-3 months and i havent even shot mine yet. Put down your 22lrs and go shoot that thing!! hahah Im going to shoot mine the same night I break it out of jail! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegade331 31 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 It appears that more of the 2011 models are somewhat reliable than not. I have been wanting to get my hands on a 2011 and do some testing. Too many other irons in the fire and a long list of things of much greater prority.... supressors, SBRs, etc.. If I could just hit Fantasy 5 or Lotto.... Haha you and me both man. That would be GREAT. Dont the 2011 models have plastic thread protectors? How many gas ports do you have? Are there any partially covered? Use a bent paperclip or something similar in size to poke around check. I wish I could. The S12 currently sits in 10 day jail, until this friday At this point all I have is a serial number and a photo from my LGS. To check all I have to do is remove the gas regulator, correct? Yes, remove the gas regulator then take your factory puck out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
defcon 21 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Dont the 2011 models have plastic thread protectors? yea i dremeled that shit off and put on a CSS vented barrel shroud Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegade331 31 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Dont the 2011 models have plastic thread protectors? yea i dremeled that shit off and put on a CSS vented barrel shroud Dremeled off? It doesnt screw on like the metal ones? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
defcon 21 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Dont the 2011 models have plastic thread protectors? yea i dremeled that shit off and put on a CSS vented barrel shroud Dremeled off? It doesnt screw on like the metal ones? it does screw off but i had a hard time unscrewing it. i knew i was going to get the shroud so i just dremeled it off and threw it away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SDRider 7 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Are there any other differences with the 2011 models if any? I saw a video where someone mentioned there were additional changes I thought. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) Are there any other differences with the 2011 models if any? I saw a video where someone mentioned there were additional changes I thought. Barrel hood is extended to reduce the chance of shells catching on it. Maybe a few other minor things that most people wouldn't notice. I fondled one that had the plastic barrel nut. I liked it. On and off with no tool? Now you're talking.... right up my alley. Edited November 15, 2011 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bpries 0 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I have a 2011 with the plastic thread protector. I checked the gas ports and I actually have three but it still won't cycle low brass ammo on the #2 setting. It will get really close to ejecting the shell then jams. On setting one it won't even push the carrier back far enough to jam. It just slides the empty back into the chamber. It will cycle high brass, buck and slugs just fine though. I am curious about swapping the puck and plug though. Has anyone done this and had their gun start cycling low brass without other modifications? What other mods would you guys recommend to be able to cycle all types of ammo. I want the option to still run buckshot without beating my gun to a pulp or having to swap parts (springs puck etc..) before switching ammo types. Thanks for any input in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 You are on the right track by not wanting to run low power springs and all of that type stuff. You might try the CSS puck. People seem to like it and say it adds benefit. However, I have no experience with it. Reprofiling and polishing the sources of friction adds significant benefit, when done well, but it is not the end-all be-all solution. These are "gas operated" weapons and sometimes the need work to the "gas system". I use a combination of friction reduction and gas system mods and have achieved 99.5% reliability on video with 200 rounds of Winchester through MD-20 drums in rapid succession (about 2 min 20 sec). Maybe some other guys here have done better, but I think that is acceptable reliability when the only failure was a shell that caught on the barrel hood while being chambered. 0 FTE out of 200 with garbage ammo.... I have a 2011 with the plastic thread protector. I checked the gas ports and I actually have three but it still won't cycle low brass ammo on the #2 setting. It will get really close to ejecting the shell then jams. On setting one it won't even push the carrier back far enough to jam. It just slides the empty back into the chamber. It will cycle high brass, buck and slugs just fine though. I am curious about swapping the puck and plug though. Has anyone done this and had their gun start cycling low brass without other modifications? What other mods would you guys recommend to be able to cycle all types of ammo. I want the option to still run buckshot without beating my gun to a pulp or having to swap parts (springs puck etc..) before switching ammo types. Thanks for any input in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegade331 31 Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 Get the MD arms booster puck. I have three gas ports as well and had trouble with cycling low brass ammo every now and again. After buying the booster puck it runs great with low brass. Or you could take your gas block off and enlarge your gas ports, then get an auto plug or vplug to regulate gas flow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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