josey88 21 Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Since I only shoot steel cartridges (Wolf , Brown Bear ,Silver Bear , Golden Bear ) I really can`t care less for a bent cartridge ... but I do care for the finish of the receiver`s cover that was getting scratched by the ejecting rds , so I took 4 pieces of electrical tape 1-1/2 inch long , put them ( one in top of the other to make it thicker) and placed it on the part of the cover that is touched by the ejecting cartridges . I contoured the tape a little with scissors so it would fit correctly and the problem was solved completely ... I went to the range , shot 180 rds and when I got home I checked ... only the upper piece of tape was damaged . I then , cut and replaced it with a new piece of tape so it would mantain the same thickness and cushion and it is ready for some more shooting next time . Cost me nothing , did it in 5 minutes , cannot be seen from 5 feet away (to undue it , just peel off the electrical tape ) and it works 100% successfully ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
liberty -r- death 1,445 Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Since I only shoot steel cartridges (Wolf , Brown Bear ,Silver Bear , Golden Bear ) I really can`t care less for a bent cartridge ... but I do care for the finish of the receiver`s cover that was getting scratched by the ejecting rds , so I took 4 pieces of electrical tape 1-1/2 inch long , put them ( one in top of the other to make it thicker) and placed it on the part of the cover that is touched by the ejecting cartridges . I contoured the tape a little with scissors so it would fit correctly and the problem was solved completely ... I went to the range , shot 180 rds and when I got home I checked ... only the upper piece of tape was damaged . I then , cut and replaced it with a new piece of tape so it would mantain the same thickness and cushion and it is ready for some more shooting next time . Cost me nothing , did it in 5 minutes , cannot be seen from 5 feet away (to undue it , just peel off the electrical tape ) and it works 100% successfully ... Worth a try but brass being softer may still dent/bend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zombies-Bane 3 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 I have heard many people talk about the "AK Kiss" before, and have yet to see it as bad as most. I put 60 rounds of federal 55 grain fmj brass through it a couple weekends ago, and it left only a cosmetic scratch on every last one. And yes my saiga has had thousands of rounds through it, so its been well worn in. My girlfriend's savage axis left as much of a scratch as the saiga. I will try to find one around the house to take a pic of it for y'all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vais01 3 Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Well I may have finally hit the nail in the head but I need some input. My Saiga has been converted and the Arsenal Single Stage Trigger was used for the trigger assembly. Now the other thing which I will try to photograph is the wear on the the ejector. I believe the trigger altered the bolts rearward travel from straight back to straight back then up over the hammer face while moving to the rear. My theory for the case dent was confirmed when I lined up the original trigger/disconnecter with the Arsenal trigger/disconnecter I found the Arsenal was close to an 1/8" or more taller than the factory. I believe this is lifting the bolt carrier group higher than it needs to be and changing the bolt to ejector alignment allowing less of the ejector to contact spent brass and inducing a faster spin on the brass. Basically what I am saying is the brass fails to clear the ejection port before it begins its rotation. I took some brass ejector mark measurements (where the ejector meets the brass) and to my surprise the more amount of ejector impacting it means the brass equals CASE DENTS and just .005"-.008" less contact equals NO CASE DENTS. So either I can shave my ejector down and make sure it is square or I can have a local CNC man create a trigger/disconnecter and hammer with the same geometry as the original Saiga components unless someone knows where to find factory Saiga trigger/disconnecter and hammers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) You can use the original Saiga hammer with any other FCG. Just test for proper trigger/disconnector hook engagements, and use a washer to provide thrust in place of the eliminated BHO plate. Edited April 23, 2012 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vais01 3 Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 You can use the original Saiga hammer with any other FCG. Just test for proper trigger/disconnector hook engagements, and use a washer to provide thrust in place of the eliminated BHO plate. I need another factory trigger/disconnecter, the hammer is not the problem. The problem is from the Arsenal sear being over .125" way too tall and allowing the factory or Arsenal hammer to sit way too high making it place upward tension on the bolt carrier and bolt. Unless someone with a 100% factory unaltered Saiga can show me case dents then I am 99% sure the dents are due to aftermarket trigger components. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vais01 3 Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) The taller sear hook is the Arsenal and the shorter is the Saiga factory sear hook with the Arsenal disconnecter attached. On the left is the Arsenal and on the right the Saiga with the Arsenal disconnecter installed. Edited April 23, 2012 by 7.62x39mm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vais01 3 Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Here is the wear caused by the added upward pressure of the Arsenal trigger group. As you can see the underside of the ejector has been rubbed and the paint and some of the material has been removed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
genesis5521 9 Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Unless someone with a 100% factory unaltered Saiga can show me case dents then I am 99% sure the dents are due to aftermarket trigger components. I just purchased a brand new unaltered Saiga 223 on December 1st, 2012 from my LGS for $399. It just a Plain Jane model. Straight grip, no frills. Today I fired the first 10 rounds through it. Every case is dented. See pic below. The fired cases land around 30 feet in front of me at a 45 degree angle. I'd like to reload for this gun as I do for all of my guns. I did read the post about putting some electrical tape on the dust cover's edge where the cases are hitting. I'll try that tomorrow. This was Federal bulk ammo. Don <>< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
genesis5521 9 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Today I tried putting on 4 layers of electrical tape. It fixed the problem. No dent. But the tape flew off on the first shot. Next I tried 2 layers from a bicycle inner tube held on with just 1 piece of good old duck tape. Fired 10 rounds and it worked like a charm. Not even a whisper of a dent or even a scratch. And the tape stayed on just fine. It ain't pretty but it works. Another post suggested protective edging material for a car door. I'm gonna try that next. But at least I have something that works right now. Those 2 layers are 2 single layers. Not 2 doubled-up layers. Don <>< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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