Timbersmith stock woes solved!

[JonnyDingDongs 158]

I'm a sucker for gray laminate, so when I saw the new Timbersmith stock sets, I HAD to buy one. Got around to ordering a Saiga 5.45 later on to go with it.

Mid-conversion, it became apparent that nothing was going to line up for crap. After doing the research that I should have done in the first place, I have found that I am not alone in this. These stocks are more suited to milled receivers, as they will have a tighter fit. Also, the CSS trigger guard I was using wasn't really compatible with the pistol-grip.

After extensive modification, I finally got the grip to cooperate. Here is a quick, albeit crappy, picture of what I ran into:

The threaded portion of the trigger guard ( A ) wasn't in-line with where the bolt ( B ) needed to exit the hole ( C ) in the bottom of the grip.

Using a rotary tool and what I can only describe as a Dremel end-mill type bit, I slowly shaved enough off of the contact surfaces to align the grip.

Not perfectly, but there's a line between adequate and perfect. Sometimes you have to sacrifice a little sanity to cross it. After a good 2 1/2 hours, I decided this was not one of those times.

The stock had to be modified a little as well.

Using that same bit, I had to make little cut-outs for the nylon hole plugs and the washer/cap screw which mount through the rearmost hole in the top of the trigger guard. All seemed well until one mag-dump later. That sorry S.O.B. rattled loose! I was aware of a gap between the stock and receiver tang, but ignorant of both how big it was and what this would cause. That extra space gave the stock enough room to flex and vibrate the screws right back out. Upon further inspection:

Holy gap! 0.14"

The solution: A urethane shim. I'm not entirely sure what it is composed of (swiped it from work and our item description is simply "Urethane block.") With a coping saw, calipers, belt sander, file, and a LOT of swearing, it only took about an hour to produce this:

Of course, now the tiny little wood screws provided with the stock set would only get about two threads into the stock. So I bored the holes out to 11/64" and re-used the OEM stock screws. Hell, I think they look better anyway. I only finished this about an hour ago, so unfortunately no range report, but I have no doubt it will hold up. The finished product:

 

It was certainly a learning experience. Can't say whether or not I'd recommend the set, but I will say this: I strongly advise purchasing only if you have an abundance of patience or freakishly good luck.

Edited November 29, 2011 by JonnyDingDongs

[saiga 12 power 31]

DAMNIT!!!! I wanted these on my saiga7.62 build

[gunfun 3,931]

I liked Juggernaut's and the way he higlighted the lettering in green. could you do that in a blue about the color of the forum Icon? Then I could see the results on yours without having to do it myself.

 

Good job on a nice looking build.

[JonnyDingDongs 158]

I liked Juggernaut's and the way he higlighted the lettering in green. could you do that in a blue about the color of the forum Icon? Then I could see the results on yours without having to do it myself.

 

Good job on a nice looking build.

 

Thanks! Not sure what you're referring to, though? I just looked through like 7 pages of his content without seeing anything highlighted in green. Link, perhaps?

[gunfun 3,931]

I'm with Shannon on this one... I like the "traditional" AK look... Brian did a fantastic job on mine..

 

The new CNC gas block is sexy as hell...

 

 

 

 

Before I settled on the Bulgy furniture I was thinking of doing this on my racy one and doing the carrier and maybe a couple of other random parts in a blue to emphasize a modern look, with the grey hickory laminate stock I was contemplating chopping off of a 10/22.

 

Then he did this and the classic looks started to appeal. Quite a few people do the "S" and "F" in white and red, and all the lettering in white. It is a nice touch for final fit and finish. (and it should match all the H&K sights people have)

[THE VILLIAN 55]

I'm with Shannon on this one... I like the "traditional" AK look... Brian did a fantastic job on mine..

 

The new CNC gas block is sexy as hell...

 

 

 

Then he did this and the classic looks started to appeal. Quite a few people do the "S" and "F" in white and red, and all the lettering in white. It is a nice touch for final fit and finish. (and it should match all the H&K sights people have)

 

What did u use? Ive heard there is other options besides lacquer stick...

[gunfun 3,931]

That's Juggernaut's not mine. You will have to ask him.

 

I would just use any old paint, like auto touch up, and then give the whole thing a spray of clear coat. I have a bunch of things to modify on mine before it gets any paint.

[Juggernaut 11,054]

I used a highlighter grease pencil... touch it up every year or so...

[THE VILLIAN 55]

Thanks Jugg... Love the new avatar! lol

[JonnyDingDongs 158]

How have I not seen this before? That looks awesome! Loving the idea of the forum blue. I'll definitely post pics if I do it.

[JonnyDingDongs 158]

Good call, GunFun! Not sure if "Ocean blue" matches the forum perfectly, but I love it.

 

 

 

It looks blurry as hell it these pictures, but it actually came out great. I decided to go ahead and do the safe/fire as well. Finished working on it before realizing I had just put red, white, and blue on a Russian gun. Is that really inappropriate?

 

It looked so good to me that I went ahead and did the S12 while I was at it.

There she is with the infamous nickel-plated bolt & carrier (still holding up nicely, btw.)

 

This is what I wound up using:

Krylon paint, a pick, the smallest engraving tip I've ever seen for a Dremel, and a q-tip. I had to use the engraver to get all the paint out of the grooves. Then I dipped the pick in the paint and (agonizingly slowly) dragged droplets of it through all the numbers and letters. Then I ripped all of the 'fuzz' off of one q-tip and used the remaining cardboard stick as a tiny scrapper to remove any excess paint.

The original plan was to use a syringe to apply the paint, but shy of raiding a hospital, I was unable to locate anything small enough for the job.

 

I think it came out well and looks pretty damned sharp, but tell me what you guys think??

[gunfun 3,931]

Clear Definition. I recently tried a silver sharpie which workeed better than I would have thought, but when I was done, I could see a different sheen where I rubbed off the excess with my hand.

 

Yours looks much better. Did you hit the Izzy logo on the other side? that's the coolest part.

[JonnyDingDongs 158]

Initially, no. I could tell that the Izzy logo was only about half as deep as the rest of the engraving and I had so much difficulty with the rest of it (especially the connect-the-dots job on the "Saiga 5.45X39") that I didn't have the balls to go for it.

However, I'm not known for turning down a request...

I've done some more clean-up since then and it's looking a lot more sharp. I must say though: this is almost as tedious as polishing the entire bolt carrier. It really takes a steady hand and a lot of patience.

I guess that makes it a Saiga, huh?

[gunfun 3,931]

You are putting a lot more effort into it than I would do. I would just color in and wipe off, without the dremel work.

[JonnyDingDongs 158]

I wish I could have gone that route. Unfortunately, when I tried to wipe away the excess, it just smeared all over the place and refused to come off. The smooth finish of the 5.45 wasn't so bad, but the textured paint on my S12's made it impossible to do any real clean-up after a slip. I'm sure there's a better option out there, but this Krylon isn't bad if you set aside an hour or so.