pman 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I have a .223 saiga I'd like to put a muzzle brake on. Should I just get the barrel threaded by a gunsmith and have it welded in place since there isnt a plunger pin, or should I have him install a new front sight block? I don't intend to ever remove the muzzle brake, and I'm more concerned with whatever will be cheapest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sim_Player 1,939 Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) You have many options for the muzzle I guess if depends on what size threads your new brake will have once you have it picked out. With no plunger, I would definitely, at the very least, drill and pin it. A good tack weld couldn't hurt either. Or both, after threading. A 24mm Bulgy FSB has your threads so no tapping required, but your muzzle selection would be limited. Edited January 4, 2012 by Sim_Player Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pman 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 This is going to sound dumb, but is there anyway I can slap the flash hider styled like an m16a1's birdcage flash hider onto my saiga? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sim_Player 1,939 Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 Yes, just avoid buying any "slip-on and pin" style breaks. They are usually cheap in design. It all comes down to time and money. The look you desire and the brake you pick out will dictate the work involved. Check your barrel diameter before buying anything to ensure a proper fit, if you purchase a new FSB. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lyle 1 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 This is going to sound dumb, but is there anyway I can slap the flash hider styled like an m16a1's birdcage flash hider onto my saiga? I actually have bird cage style flash hiders on two 5.45 conversions I've done. Really like the look. On both conversions I removed the Saiga FSBs and replaced them with surplus FSBs (one Romanian, and I forget what the other was... Hungarian I think.) I wanted to be able to use the spring and plunger pin to retain the flash hiders. Most aggravating part was dremmeling off the old FSBs. One drawback is the farthest back dimple from the Saiga pressed on FSB is left exposed by the shorter AK FSBs, but once painted it doesn't bother me in the least 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKsaiga 0 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) Aloha all, I just joined and might be posting in the wrong place but I do hope someone will read this and help. Many of your other various comment have been very helpful. I am far from a gunsmith but no clutz either. I am attempting my first Siaga to AK conversion and have done well so far. Pistol grip on new handguards, stock... The first problem I ran into here and am hoping for some help with is the Front Sight Block. I went to Home Depot yesterday to get a vise which I was sure I would need when the store-guy an ex-army jock and very nice guy said "why don't you strip it down and bring in the barrel and I'l work on it with you right here in the store" This saved me the cost of tools and gave me the advantage of another body. Great! Problem was when he was drilling out the dimples in the old FSB he went too far. One of the holes went clean through! I now have three dimples and one hole in my barrel. 3/32" diameter. Of course these are all covered by the new FSB but in all of the research I did I didn't hear talk of this happening and don't know how much damage I've done to ny beloved rifle. I also have the '74 style muzzle break which i can simply screw on to the threaded FSB. This break wobbles just a tad and I also wondered if that would cause problems. Please someone can you tell me that this is OK and that my rifle will live on to shoot many more bulleye's. Hope someone can take time to post me back this sight has been very helpful to me! Aloha Edited June 2, 2012 by AKsaiga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
finishman2000 2 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 i don't think i would want a hole that size in the end of the barrel. not sure what it will do but can't be good. i would cut the barrel shorter, past the hole, thread and silver solver the 74 break on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.BlahX3 12 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 i don't think i would want a hole that size in the end of the barrel. not sure what it will do but can't be good. i would cut the barrel shorter, past the hole, thread and silver solver the 74 break on. This is probably a good option. How far back from the front of the barrel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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