Inebriated 31 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Hey guys, I'm probably ordering a Saiga in a couple days, and I plan to start the conversion as soon as I can. My problem is that while I like the functionality of the '74 brake, I really want to put a slant brake. So I was wondering if it's a lot of work to move the front sight forward to have about .5" of threading shown, then pinning it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregM1 241 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 it would depend on whether the FSB on the rifle is just pinned on or dimpled. if it is dimpled, you will have to grind the dimples out then remove the pins before removal. you may even need to cut it long ways to be able to remove it. if it is just pinned, you could remove the pins then drive it forward to the point you are after. redrill and repin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ekim 6 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Wouldn't it be easier to just make a spacer to put in front of the front sight? That way your not messing up the barrel and taking a chance of goofing up the sight. A lot less work too and removable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Wouldn't it be easier to just make a spacer to put in front of the front sight? That way your not messing up the barrel and taking a chance of goofing up the sight. A lot less work too and removable. Or just only cut what you need too off the shroud on the FSB? And use it as a spacer for the slant brake? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregM1 241 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Or just only cut what you need too off the shroud on the FSB? And use it as a spacer for the slant brake? i did that when i first converted my 7.62. other than looking a bit awkwardly long it was fine. i just didnt like how ineffective the slant brake was and switched to a 24mm block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ekim 6 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 How fast and how often do you shoot at a high rate of fire that a muzzle brake would really make that much difference! It's not like the recoil is not controlable on a 7.62X39 any how. I will admit a muzzle break can enhance the look, but the extra report you hear from one isn't worth the look or control factor to me. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregM1 241 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 the brake i switched too, a clone 103 brake reduces about 75% of the recoil, even at a slow rate of fire (range rules of 1 sec between shots). I also shoot quickly often too, when in the woods and practicing for hog herds, and the control difference is very noticeable too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) Hey guys, I'm probably ordering a Saiga in a couple days, and I plan to start the conversion as soon as I can. My problem is that while I like the functionality of the '74 brake, I really want to put a slant brake. So I was wondering if it's a lot of work to move the front sight forward to have about .5" of threading shown, then pinning it?If your new Saiga 7.62 is threaded from the factory, as some are...On a factory threaded barrel, the threads only go 5/8" back, not all the way to the FSB. Cutting all the way back will leave a large gap between the FSB and a muzzle attachment. Most small pipe cutters will not cut all the way back, most cut back .5" (9/16"), which is just shy of the threads factory base. Perfect for such as a slant brake. You can then index against the remaining shroud with a crush/peel washer, or pin the attachment. ............................................. IMHO, the best way is to use a small pipe cutter, works great and won't cut too deep. Once it completes the cut, the shroud noticeably moves/turns and/or pops off. Dremel Place barrel securely in vise Mark shroud for cut... Circumferential. Use a new cutoff wheel Work slowly and cautiously and don't go too deep, mark your cutoff wheel, no deeper than 1/8"-3/16" or you risk cutting into the barrel. Once you think your close, stick a screwdriver in the cut and try to pop it off. If not, go a cunt hair deeper, repeat as necessary. Edited February 1, 2012 by ChileRelleno 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks guys. I don't actually have the rifle yet, but I guess I'll wait til I have it before I start trying to think of how to solve this. How fast and how often do you shoot at a high rate of fire that a muzzle brake would really make that much difference! It's not like the recoil is not controlable on a 7.62X39 any how. I will admit a muzzle break can enhance the look, but the extra report you hear from one isn't worth the look or control factor to me. I'm going for looks. I don't care if it's not as effective as other brakes. I've been shooting slant brakes for years without issue. Wouldn't it be easier to just make a spacer to put in front of the front sight? That way your not messing up the barrel and taking a chance of goofing up the sight. A lot less work too and removable. Or just only cut what you need too off the shroud on the FSB? And use it as a spacer for the slant brake? Thought about it, but I don't like the extra length. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregM1 241 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks guys. I don't actually have the rifle yet, but I guess I'll wait til I have it before I start trying to think of how to solve this. I'm going for looks. I don't care if it's not as effective as other brakes. I've been shooting slant brakes for years without issue. Thought about it, but I don't like the extra length. that sounds like a perfect reason to go with a slant then. it just depends on the way the FSB is mounted if you will wish to salvage it or not. Most in the last few years of production have the dimples. These can leave large holes in the side if you do not know how to weld them shut. But the process of the forward movement, redrilling, and repin are very easy. To drive it forward without cutting the FSB lengthwise, use a soft wood, like pine. place it at the point where the sleeve meets the tower and hit with a mallet. If you drive it all the way off to fill the holes, you can use an anti-seize lubricant (from auto stores) to help reinstall and align. will this be your first saiga? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Thanks guys. I don't actually have the rifle yet, but I guess I'll wait til I have it before I start trying to think of how to solve this. I'm going for looks. I don't care if it's not as effective as other brakes. I've been shooting slant brakes for years without issue. Thought about it, but I don't like the extra length. that sounds like a perfect reason to go with a slant then. it just depends on the way the FSB is mounted if you will wish to salvage it or not. Most in the last few years of production have the dimples. These can leave large holes in the side if you do not know how to weld them shut. But the process of the forward movement, redrilling, and repin are very easy. To drive it forward without cutting the FSB lengthwise, use a soft wood, like pine. place it at the point where the sleeve meets the tower and hit with a mallet. If you drive it all the way off to fill the holes, you can use an anti-seize lubricant (from auto stores) to help reinstall and align. will this be your first saiga? Yep, it'll be the first. And I'll keep that process in mind. I've been wondering how much force would need to be applied to scoot it forward. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregM1 241 Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Yep, it'll be the first. And I'll keep that process in mind. I've been wondering how much force would need to be applied to scoot it forward. the first hits need to be pretty good. a soft block of wood will protect the FSB from damage though. I have removed several blocks this way and no damage has occured. you may wish to lock it into a vise using a few thin block of wood. i have never used that method though being intuitive enough to do it free hand. There is also a good pinned thread in the 5.45 subsection detailing removal/ replacement of the FSB too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted February 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 Yep, it'll be the first. And I'll keep that process in mind. I've been wondering how much force would need to be applied to scoot it forward. the first hits need to be pretty good. a soft block of wood will protect the FSB from damage though. I have removed several blocks this way and no damage has occured. you may wish to lock it into a vise using a few thin block of wood. i have never used that method though being intuitive enough to do it free hand. There is also a good pinned thread in the 5.45 subsection detailing removal/ replacement of the FSB too. Ok, I'll check it out. Thanks man, I appreciate all the help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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