Texas Weapons Systems Dog Leg On MAK90

[Squishy 1,149]

I received my TWS Dog Leg yesterday and in installing it on my MAK90 it appears that I'm going to have to remove some material from the lip on the rear of the rear sight. I ran across a thread on AK47.net that shows this having to be done on MAKs. I'm wondering if anyone else has had to do this.

 

I'm just trying to be careful about cutting on the rifle to make this piece fit as you can always remove material but it's hard if not impossible sometimes to add it back.

 

The first photo is of my rifle, the second is where someone made the mod.

[RedChallenger 149]

Nothing yet?

[Squishy 1,149]

Well the folks at TWS told me someone was going to call me so I wanted to wait until I talked to this person before I posted up but the call didn't come so...

 

Here's what I have.

 

 

Photo #1

 

While working on this I kept noticing that the dog leg had a noticeable tilt downward in the direction of the muzzle when the pin provided was in place. I assumed incorrectly that the rear (shown in photo #3) was too high so I removed some metal from the gap it sits in. I just did some filing and never removed that much and then I realized that the pin provided was holding the pivot point at the front of the Dog Leg too low. This bottom hole is not where the rear sight leaf normally sits, this hole is to allow the sight leaf to be removed when pressure is taken off of the spring. So I went to two hardware stores and a gun shop trying to find a smaller diameter pin and E-clip so the dog leg pivot could seat in the upper hole.

 

This upper hole is 4mm.

 

Needless to say I never found a pin this size but I did get an Allen Head cap screw and this is what I used. This allowed the Dog Leg to sit in a more level way. This is shown by arrow "A". Arrow "B" shows a gap where a small part of the carrier is exposed by the design of the Dog Leg cover. I understand it would be nearly impossible to make this part an exact fit for every AK variant out there. And I'm guessing that on some variants this gap would not exist.

 

The original gap at the front of the Dog Leg cover was closed as far as possible and not get in the way of opening and closing it.

 

 

Photo #2 shows where metal had to be removed to close the gap and to allow the Dog Leg cover to close. I didn't want to completely remove the upper lip or it would be impossible to ever put a "stock" cover back on the receiver.

 

 

Photo #3 Arrow "C" shows where metal had to be removed from the bottom of the rear hole so the "button" could protrude far enough to lock. I wondered at first why a recoil spring guide is included in the Dog Leg kit. At first glance it didn't appear to be any different than the stock spring guide. But looking closer shows that the bottom of the spring guide button is slanted. This not only holds the cover on, it applies force downward making the rear of the Dog Leg cover more solid. If you have to remove metal the way I did so the spring guide button would protrude far enough through the hole, be careful not to remove too much or the clamping force of the bottom of the button will be reduced or eliminated altogether.

 

 

Photo #4 This shot shows the gap at the top of the safety lever when it is position are far up at it will go. I guess this gap could be eliminated but it would require considerable work to get the slanted portion at the rear of the lever and the top to mate exactly with the Dog Leg cover. I can live with this the way it is.

 

All in all it took me a few hours to do all this but I don't do this sort of thing that much. Someone who does might make shorter work of it. One change that TWS should make is add a smaller pin to the kit to allow the front pivot point to seat where the stock sight leaf tabs normally would, otherwise the Dog Leg will have a noticeable tilt downward. An alternative would be to put a slight downward bend in the arm that attaches to the front pivot point.

 

I want to reiterate that for some AK variants this set-up might just jump on the rifle with little fuss. But I have to say that if I ever wanted to put something like this on another MAK90 I'd look closely at the Krebs set-up. It looks like it would be just as solid if not more so and it has....ooops, it looks like it might not work. This is from the description on the Krebs site; "Not for Yugoslavian or milled receiver rifles. Not for use with Yugoslavian, Chinese or milled receiver rifles." Not sure if this means any Chinese or any Chinese milled receiver. I'd have to get in touch with them IF, this was something I was considering. If I find out for sure I'll edit this post.

Edited June 12, 2012 by Squishy

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

 

I'dve stopped short of modding my rear sight block to make that sort of fit.

 

ymmv.

Edited June 12, 2012 by post-apocalyptic

[Squishy 1,149]

Yeah, there's a long I think 83 page thread on AK47.net about all this and some just live with the gap like the first photo in the first post. But, I didn't like it. Now that it's done I'm ok with it but I doubt I'd do it again.

 

Now that I've done it I can install one on that new hotness of yours, spiff it up some....

Edited June 12, 2012 by Squishy

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

...Now that I've done it I can install one on that new hotness of yours, spiff it up some....

 

You get anywhere near my Classic with power tools or a file and I'll shoot you with one of my other rifles.

Edited June 12, 2012 by post-apocalyptic

[Squishy 1,149]

...Now that I've done it I can install one on that new hotness of yours, spiff it up some....

 

You get anywhere near my Classic with power tools or a file and I'll shoot you with one of my other rifles.

 

[2ndAmendican 23]

...Now that I've done it I can install one on that new hotness of yours, spiff it up some....

 

You get anywhere near my Classic with power tools or a file and I'll shoot you with one of my other rifles.

 

LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!