FingerStyleFunk 6 Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Has anyone done this? I'm trying to analyze cost differences between shipping off my S308, threading it myself for 17x1, or buying everything and threading it 5/8x24. I just remembered that I read somewhere, someone had a muzzle break re-threaded. Or re-tapped or whatever. It seems like that would be much cheaper and easier. Thread the S308 myself for 17x1, and then just rethread the Flashhider/break/doodad. Just wondering if anyone has experience with this, thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 The outer diameter of the barrel. A .631" = 5/8-24 and a .671" = 17x1. You would be taking .040 off of the the inside of the 5/8-24 threaded Flashhider/break/doodad. If it has enough meat that might work. I just bought the tooling to bring the barrel down to .631 and threaded 5/8-24. There are a few who did it without cutting down the barrel diameter: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/74910-threading-a-670-muzzle-for-58-24/ 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mtjccmotel 12 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) I would thread the barrel to 5/8-24 as you will have more options for brakes/flash suppressors. My barrel was .671" I originally started with just the die and lots of cutting fluid for 5/8-24 but didn't like how much force it took to cut the threads. I removed the die and filed/sanded the barrel down a bit took it to .640" then finished cutting the threads to 5/8-24. Just go slow with a file and keep your round profile of the barrel and you'll do fine. Use a light cutting file preferably one that doesn't have cutting teeth on the side. I also took a 14mmL AMD brake and rethreaded to 5/8-24. I would not say that it is cheaper to cut the brake, because you have added cost of the die. I also had access to a lathe with a boring bar to remove the meat of the brake. I used cheap surpluss brakes bought for $10 each so I wasn't concerned if one got ruined. I would not bore out an expensive american brake from 5/8-24 to 17. The decision is yours and to each his own. Good luck let us know what you decide. Edited July 12, 2012 by Noob308 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FingerStyleFunk 6 Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I got a rough quote from a guy here in washington state that I found online for 200 to 240 for moving the FSB back and threading 5/8x24. I welcome the chance to learn, but I hate the idea of breaking something I love. I'll probably ship it off. As far as breaks/flashiders, I was eyeballying those BABC 2.0's. Pricey, but for recoil control when rapid firing, may be worth it. Maybe a PWS 30 or just an AAC blackout. I've also considered the YHM flash hider as I'd like to get a suppressor now that they are legal here in my state. I'll get it figured out and put together, and when I do i'll post some pics. I'm in gun, mag and ammo purchase mode right now, trying to beat the election / apocalypse inflation before the pricing increases. Sure wish I wouldn't of burned through 3k rounds of 308. On a side note, I think I may be getting two more 223 saiga's, and they're a hell of alot easier to thread than the 308. Able to thread 14x1LH without moving jack, just some cutting and threading. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saiga545 47 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 If I'm not mistaken, Dinzag's 17x1 breaks start life as either a 14x1 or 5/8" break. The 17x1 AK74 break I bought from him says Tapco USA on the side. Also he sells a phantom USA FH in 17x1 (which was probably 5/8" before he reemed and rethreaded it). I would contact him and see about sending it in. I'm sure he would do it for a very reasonable price. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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