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Reliability issues with new Saiga .308. Help please!


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I recently just purchased a new Saiga .308. After performing the trigger modification with a CSS kit I was in love with the gun. I put about a hundred rounds through it with no issue. However when I went to zero it at the range I began experiencing misfeeds/FTF using a brand new SGM 25 round magazine and wolf military classic ammo. The cartridge would. One up but not seat correctly in the chamber effectively getting stuck or wedged. I know these guns are known for their reliability. Anyone have any ideas to solve this issue and increase reliability? My first thoughts are grinding and polishing all the internals but I was hoping there might be an easier fix. Thanks again guys!

 

Ken

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Dont grind anything yet.

A few questions,

Can you push the round in with your finger?

Can you push the round in with the bolt handle?

Did you clean the chamber well after shooting steel cased ammo?

Have you tried brass cased ammo?

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Could not push the round in with the bolt handle or I could but with great difficulty. I did not try my finger. I never cleaned the gun but I shot a mixture of steel and brass with no FTF or misfeeds at all for about a hundred rounds. Then I went to the range and began experiencing FTFs/misfeeds with just steel wolf ammo. Does that info help any?

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Well I am but I'm hoping that polishing and grinding everything a little will lower the tolerances and help the gun to eat cheap ammo better. I bought it for its reliability so I really wanted it to be able to shoot the cheap steel ammo.

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I have a S308, I shoot brass and steel as well, you will have to clean the chamber after shooting the steel.

The lacker on the steel case comes off into the chamber, the case mouth does not seal as well as brass and you get blow lack into the chamber.

I got mine for long range shooting, mine likes brass better, the steel has fliers, the brass holds a better group, in mine.

post-37682-0-53048400-1342319696_thumb.jpg

Edited by RED333
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At what point is it getting stuck?

 

Right before it wants to load into the chamber when it does misfeed. It didn't happen every time ... About ever 6-7 shots but it really jammed when it did. Using an SGM 25 round mag which had shot flawlessly prior so not too sure what is going on. I also noticed some deep scratches on the ammo I had to clear and denting of the cases of the ammo that fired.

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I recently just purchased a new Saiga .308. After performing the trigger modification with a CSS kit I was in love with the gun. I put about a hundred rounds through it with no issue. However when I went to zero it at the range I began experiencing misfeeds/FTF using a brand new SGM 25 round magazine and wolf military classic ammo. The cartridge would. One up but not seat correctly in the chamber effectively getting stuck or wedged. I know these guns are known for their reliability. Anyone have any ideas to solve this issue and increase reliability? My first thoughts are grinding and polishing all the internals but I was hoping there might be an easier fix. Thanks again guys!

 

Ken

 

Did you experience the same problem with your factory Saiga mag? Try your factory mag if you haven't already, it sounds like more of a problem with the SGM mag rather than the rifle itself. It has been my experience that some SGM mags need fitting to the rifle in order to fit and/or work properly. You might look into a CSSpecs mag or Unita mags if you want greater than 8 round capacity. You could contact SGM for a replacement mag, pehaps the mag is flawed somehow.

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I'd love to learn how to field strip a magazine. Any guides for the SGM's?

 

I dont own an SGM, but if it is designed like any other normal AK mag, it should have a button on the magazine floor plate. Press that button in with either a punch or even a cartridge and begin sliding the floorplate back. Do not remove the floorplate without having your hand ready to catch the spring. I usually just place my hand over the bottom once the floorplate is about 25% off and use my open hand to pull the floorplate completely off. The spring will push out into your hand and then you can slowly remove it, be careful though they are pretty tightly in there make sure you dont release it or you could lose an eye. Once you have the spring tension completely removed, pull the spring out and the follower will come out with it. Then it is stripped. You can inspect for issues then, good luck beer.gif

 

Edit: Heres a youtube video if my explanation didnt help (

) Edited by VR6Shooter
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