Talk to me about how to carefully clean a rifle you want to have last

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

-How do you avoid having a cleaning rod damage a barrel?

-How important is it to only put the brush one direction down the barrel?

-How much should you brush the barrel through?

-Is the 3 piece rod that came with my cleaning kit the wrong tool?

-Is the one piece rod that came with my AK a better tool?

-What is the most important thing to avoid?

 

Like many others have pointed out... It's an AK... The field cleaning procedure is to hold the action open with your toe and piss down the barrel. Should you want to go above any beyond that... Here's what I do.

 

1. Tipton Carbon fiber rod...

2. Not important at all... If you think a soft brass brush will harm your rifling, I'll buy all of your guns from you right now.

3. I usually brush until I can't see fouling in the rifling, then switch off to patches.

4. Throw that shit away... Get a Tipton (again... my opinion)

5. Fuck no it isn't.. (See field cleaning procedure)

6. Leaving corrosive primer residue in the gun (AND lack of ammo)...

 

I have seen many recommend CLP. I've used it and think it's shit (turned to gummy greasy crap in my guns)... Hoppe's #9 and a boatload of Hoppe's oil has seen me through just fine. No need to spend more, or less.... ESPECIALLY on an AK (see field cleaning procedure).

Edited February 2, 2013 by Maxwelhse

[slippingaway 89]

I would also advise, to get a tube of gun grease for your rails. It absorbes into the metal and makes a smooth layer. It really doesn't much, and yes you can have too much of a good thing.

Take care not to leave oils in the gassing system. The residue will gunk up with powder deposits.

 

I like your collection, sounds like you've got some reliable tools.

 

I was hunting around and someone in a thread had a spray on treatment for storing guns over time. Can anyone clue me in on what they use for anything that could potentially be sitting for years? I'm prepping some pvc caches for survival and want to know what people have had the best luck with. I figure some desiccant packs (sodium silicate) would be good for moisture, but what's the best way to prep them for storage?

 

Many here are really making the case for CLP. When my hoppes no. 9 runs dry I might try it out just for grins. If it's only ~$4.00 I'll test it. For Science! Thanks for the honest reviews, and though I haven't asked this question, I've learned a lot from yous guys.

Edited February 2, 2013 by slippingaway

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

Many here are really making the case for CLP. When my hoppes no. 9 runs dry I'll give that a go and see how it treats me. Thanks for the honest reviews, and though I haven't asked this question, I've learned a lot from yous guys.

 

PM me your address and I'll mail you the remainder of my can of CLP (you pay shipping) the next time I'm into my cleaning supplied... It's never going near my guns again.

 

Maybe I'm just a moron and don't understand how to apply it?

[slippingaway 89]

Maybe I'm just a moron and don't understand how to apply it?

Hey maxwell, you already have my address And you know my secret identity too.

In your opinion, it's really that sh!tty? Hmm...

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

I had forgotten that I had that privileged info...

 

Yes, in my opinion you may as well dip your gun in vaseline and call it good. It looks and acts exactly like white lithium spray grease (probably because it is, or is similar, but 3x more expensive). It's sticky, coats heavy no matter how you spray it, and costs a fortune. For 50 years Hoppe's gun oil was just fine... I oil the piss out of my guns, they fire when the trigger is pulled, and they are not rusting. What else do you want?

 

That is, of course, only my opinion. If it's working for other people so well, maybe I'm too dumb to know how to apply it correctly?

[devildogdakota 804]

The thing I noticed with CLP is you have to shake it immediatly before you apply it because of the suspended teflon particles that seem to seperate quickly from the rest of the liquid. You'd think being suspended, it wouldn't seperate, but it does, and quick! I put CLP in a jar one time years back and noticed that I would stir it up and in a couple of minutes, a lighter colored substance would settle to the bottom. I'm figurin' that was the teflon particles.

[Remek 771]

Many here are really making the case for CLP. When my hoppes no. 9 runs dry I might try it out just for grins. If it's only ~$4.00 I'll test it. For Science! Thanks for the honest reviews, and though I haven't asked this question, I've learned a lot from yous guys.

I arrived at wipe-out, by first cleaning a dirty bore with hoppes 9. Then I did the CLP three times, the third pass seeming to come out clean. Then, i did wipe-out, and gunk came out, second pass clean. Then I did patch-out, a little more gunk, but second try was clean. Back to clp, nothing. Back to wipe- out, nothing.

 

CLP is great, I keep it around for emergencies, but wipe-out beats it.

 

All that said, water and windex beats them all, baby!

[Sim_Player 1,939]

Spray it with an applicable solvent until it drips clear fluid and inspect. Search for heavy deposits (scrub if necessary) and repeat.

 

Non-corrosive ammo allows you to store the rifle longer before cleaning but, moisture from the air will be attracted to any dry residue on the metal and rust too.

 

If you can't clean it right away, at least, spray it down with some oil.

 

BTW. Never rinse a firearm with "hard" tap water. The minerals will cause "flash rust".

 

Blood is corrosive too.

Edited February 2, 2013 by Sim_Player

[DogMan 2,343]

One shot of whiskey for you, and one down the barrel. Rinse and repeat.

[Dunedain 44]

I use Ballistol for both cleaning and lubrication, cleans great and protects the weapon very well, and it's non-toxic on top of that. Even recommended by H&K for use on their weapons.

 

Can get it at the place below for a great price. Try a can, most who do really like it.

 

Hmm.. not sure if links to companies not on the forum are allowed. So just do a search for wisementrading on yahoo or google and you'll find the place that has it for the best price I've found.

Edited February 2, 2013 by Dunedain

[TheJoe90 27]

Well, as usual, after asking the question I realized I asked the wrong question! I asked how to clean a weapon, but I know how to clean an action and the inside of a receiver, the right question would have been how should I clean the bore?

 

That said yall have given me amazing answers, thank you so much!

 

Im very proud of my growing collection and I want to maintain each weapon as well as possible, since I hope to have them for many MANY more years. If I die having never sold a weapon, then thats a good thing.

[jwl019 8]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="MT Predator" data-cid="857732" data-time="1359772612"><p>

The Military went to CLP because of its properties. The stuff actually keeps shit from accumulating with its cleaning properties. People like to bring up the AR reliability argument which is null and void if you run them wet with CLP. It's good shit! I have also been treating my weapons with Militech-1 for quite a few years now since I first treated a weapon in Afghanistan with it. It treats and conditions the metal and is absorbed into the metal's pores via heat and gives the weapon a lubricity even when dry. Once treated, I still use CLP. </p></blockquote>

 

+1 for Militec 1, they also carry grease for the rails. I only use it with no CLP, since CLP gums up more I've noticed if not cleaned more frequently. My unit swapped over from CLP to Militec 1 while in Iraq.