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Bolt carrier and hammer profiles


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Hi,

 

New to the group, relatively new to Saigas. There is a tremendous amount of information here and though I've searched and read a fair amount, I haven't been able to find what I am looking for. If it is here and I am just missing it, my apologies.
I have a 12ga and am planing to convert it. I picked up a kit from CSS that has a modified Tapco FCG. I've been reading the threads about profiling the internal components and I'd like to do some work on the bolt carrier and the hammer while I have things apart. Other then some polishing I plan to leave the bolt alone for now.
I've read descriptions and seen photos of what people have done, but what I would really like is a drawing with measurements (or just measurements) of the desired profiles. Perhaps it's just the engineer in me and not really necessary.?
For the hammer I've read that you just need to grind it to match the original hammer, so that may be straightforward. (I've not taken the old trigger out to examine the two closely).
What to do to the bolt carrier (bottom) is less clear to me. Reducing the ramp angles makes sense but by how much? Are the front and back ramps the same? Does the peak have to be a minimum length? Does any of this matter?

 

- Keith

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Whatever you do to it make sure it has at least a 1/8" long stretch (table) that is positioned to depress the hammer 1/16" or so past the disconnecter when the trigger is depressed. Make sure this flat area is positioned in such a way as to make a full length pass before the carrier reaches the top of its stroke. This will ensure that there is enough time (called "lock time" I believe) and clearance for the disconnecter to spring forward and grab the hammer during the lightning fast cycle stroke of firing the weapon. If you go too far, it is probably fixable. However, fixing will be a hassle and expensive. You'll know you've gone to far if, while cycling, the hammer rides the back of the bolt down and does not recock properly every time.

 

*** if someone knowledgable would like to correct my dimensions or back them up. Please do! I am only going off what I have read on here, since I have not done it myself, yet...

 

Good luck and enjoy working on your gun!

Edited by Nephilim7
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Whatever you do to it make sure it has at least a 1/8" long stretch (table) that is positioned to depress the hammer 1/16" or so past the disconnecter when the trigger is depressed. Make sure this flat area is positioned in such a way as to make a full length pass before the carrier reaches the top of its stroke. This will ensure that there is enough time (called "lock time" I believe) and clearance for the disconnecter to spring forward and grab the hammer during the lightning fast cycle stroke of firing the weapon. If you go too far, it is probably fixable. However, fixing will be a hassle and expensive. You'll know you've gone to far if, while cycling, the hammer rides the back of the bolt down and does not recock properly every time.

 

*** if someone knowledgable would like to correct my dimensions or back them up. Please do! I am only going off what I have read on here, since I have not done it myself, yet...

 

Good luck and enjoy working on your gun!

 

Thanks for the info. I certainly don't want use the "grind down until it fails" method for finding the right profile. :)

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