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NEW FH for the S.410!


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A while back I posted some pics of a FAL brake I reamed out, tapped and threaded to set-screw tight to the barrel. It worked pretty good... but I was never too keen on the way it mounted... I mean it held SOLID... it NEVER came loose... but I had the threads just jammed up inside the thing, and I was worried about marring the threads.

 

So... I had a few of them... and I TWEAKED another one... and using a different notion, I welded it to the thread protector... so the threads are covered, it threads on in a jiffy, and makes the barrel even LONGER... :lol:

 

The added weight forward helps to balance the shotty out very nicely...

 

This design is basically shooting open choke... so its worthless for shot patterns, but will kickass for slug shooting, as you shoot them with open bore anyways!!

 

:up: :up:

 

 

:smoke:

longbrake1b.jpg

s410wlongbrake1b.jpg

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Hell yeah that's cool Indy! Damn everyone's putting creative new stuff up today :super: That's why I come here! Is that thing slotted? It looks like it in the lower pic. I may just have to get something like that for my Dragunov conversion I still have on the list. :smoke:

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It is SOLID except for the 10 holes at the front...

 

There are RIBS all along the length of it... it LOOKS slotted but thats just glare... if you click on the pics, you can get a better closeup...

 

 

I was also thinking of doing just that, Dinzag... I have other chokes... I could ream these and mount them to each choke tube... that way I could keep the choke on the gun, AND have the FH look... the trick with a choke tube would be INDEXING it properly... to do the thread protector was cute enough, I had to make a rod that would fit inside and hold it all inline... yet still be removable after welding... the thread protector is pretty much FLAT on the ends... the chomes are so slanted... I am not sure how I would go about indexing them...

 

I guess you could chuck them in a lathe, turn a LIP along the front, and then seat that lip to a corresponding lip inside the brake so it seats true, then weld... That would work, I think....

 

 

:smoke:

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