TonyRumore

Yes.

$100 off if I use your stock and it bolts up to my Trunion. I am only tooled up to make the back receiver plate with 10-32tpi inserts on 5/8" centers for the ACE stock, so if you want me to manufacture some other type of attachment trunion, it would cost more.

I will get some close up pics shortly of the entire gun and parts from various angles. The Tac Star light came with a simple clamp-on mount when I bought it. If you have a Surefire, fobus makes a mount of $20 that will bolt up to a picatinney rail. I don't think your Surefire will stand up to the recoil of the Saiga. I had one of their $500 AR-15 foregrip/light assemblies on an AR-15 in .458 SOCOM and it broke the bulb with the first shot. Surefire told me it was not designed to withstand that kind of recoil, and the SOCOM recoils quite a bit less than a Saiga. I am sure someone se

I assure you, the red loctite will NEVER let go under recoil. You can put a three foot long pipe wrench on the hider and you will spin the barrel into a corkscrew before the hider comes off. But, for those disbelievers, I can certainly thread them on, not a problem.

Just call me at the Tromix shop 9-5 M-F central time at 918 251-5640 and we can work out whatever you need. We can get 10 times more accomplished in half the time while talking on the phone than we can typing back and forth on the net.

I will sell the flash hiders seperately for the same $49 price. I would suggest just using red locktite and bond them on, but if you want it threaded 7/8x28tpi, I can do that at no additional cost.

I am assuming that you are talking about modifying a Title 1 Saiga, ie 18" gun. I would still suggest doing all the shorty mods and cutting the barrel back to about 15.5" and then add a permanent flash hider to put it at 18" overall, so the cost would be about the same as doing a 12" gun. Picatinney rail $85 Vertical Grip $40 HK Sights $150 Flash Hider 49 Tactical Light $100 The basic conversion, ie ACE folder, SAW grip, U.S. fire controls, Tromix cold weather trigger guard and shorty gas system components would run $466 plus freight. If you just want to leave the barrel at 18

I have no plans to raise the price. If I can't get anymore guns, I will simply do the conversions on customer supplied guns. That works much better for my cash flow anyway. I only built 10ea up front because I am the new guy on the Saiga block and want everyone to know that I am serious about building these guns. It's not just a single prototype deal.

http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=237378 Here is a pic of the completed Tromix prototype shorty Saiga, sans refinish. See the for sale board for pricing on complete Tromix Saiga shotguns as well as pricing on the Tromix Saiga mods that we can do on customer owned guns. Tony Rumore Tromix Corp

http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=237378 Here is a pic of the prototype shorty saiga. It is not yet refinished, but you get the picture. I have the other 10ea guns all together and ready to fire, but have not installed all the optional parts on them yet, since I will wait and see what each customer wants as far as options go. They will all be parkarized and then finished with a coat of Norrell Moly Resin. Introductory pricing on the base model will run $695 and will come with an ACE folding stock, SAW M249 pistol grip, U.S. fire control parts, Tromix cold weather trigger g

McUZI, That friggin 50BMG LAWS rocket gun I made just about killed me. I didn't quite realize what I was getting into, firing that thing off the top of my shoulder like that. With no muzzle brake and a bunch of the barrel extending out behind my back, there was very little weight out front. So when I touched it off, the muzzle went screaming upward and the buttstock slammed back so hard I had to take several steps backward just to keep the whole damn thing from flipping me over backwards. The barrel ended up completely vertical which was pretty invigorating when you consider the weight

I can certainly get more guns and do some that are not below 18", but I papered all 11ea of these as 12" since it takes 30 days or so to get the paperwork back from the ATF. I did not want to wait, since no one wants to buy an NFA SBS that is not ready to transfer on a Form 3 immediately. If someone wants an 18", I can just buy one and throw it into work with the rest of the shortys. If you want to go short, I would suggest going with a 16" tube, a shortened gas system, and a permanately installed 2.5" flash hider. I have several of the guns already completed and most of the specia

OK, now you have me scratching my head on this thing. The OD of a 12ga is about .802" and the OD of this is .798" at the head, so if I blew out the taper in the 50BMG case it would probably work with a .720/12ga projectile but may bulge a bit at the front after firing. Certainly not an ideal situation and hardly saleable like that, but it would probably work.

With that particular case, it would not fire 12ga rounds. The 50BMG case/bullet in this pic is quite a bit smaller than a 12ga. Like I said, if you had brass 12 gauge hulls you could probably duplicate the looks, but am not sure if you could run the pressure up or not.

My personal 12" gun is set up with a slip on, lock tighted flash hider and it works perfectly. I am also set up to thread them on if need be, but I just don't see the point unless you plan to switch out the flash hider for something else. I have a bunch of the hiders in work now and planned to thread them all, since the popular opinion on the board seemed to be going that direction, but I can certainly leave some smooth for a bonding installation. I will have pics and pricing for all the Tromix Saiga mods and parts ready by mid January. Hang in there, I'm just getting started on the Saiga

I have no idea what the ballastics would be on that monstrocity. I have no plans to build any, but if full length brass 12 gauge hulls show up like the old WWII shells, you could probably just cut them down a bit and leave the slug hanging out the end of the hull to give you the same visible effect.

I was screwing around in the shop today, and put together this little gem. Based on a cut down 50BMG case, it appears that it would function fine on the Saiga platform with some very minor work to the extractor and bolt. With the BMG case, I imagine you could boost the pressure to about 20,000 psi and still keep the lugs on the bolt. It is probably cost prohibitive to do sell these comercially as it would be deemed a DD and take a $200 NFA stamp, but it certainly could be done. Probably not worth doing, but it looks cool nonetheless. http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=236

You can just use a slip on flash hider and Red lock tite it in place. I assure you, with a snug slip-fit, it will never come off until you heat it mighty hot with a torch. That Red lock tite will not let go. That would save the hassle of threading which is not really necessary in this particular application.

I agree with you. The top of the shell is deformed substantially more than the bottom, but the gun will feed just fine with only the top of the shell being deformed. Look in the ejection port as you slowly cycle a round forward. You will see that the shell is already trapped under the barrel roof and can't possibly mis-feed. It is the very slight deformation of the bottom of the round that causes the problem. You haven't looked at the position of the shell when it actually jams, have you? You will find that the bottom of the shell is what hangs up, not the top.

The feed problem is not attributable to the TOP of the shell being deformed. The gun fails to feed due to the BOTTOM of the shell being deformed.

The AK has several trunions and a trigger housing, but I like the ATF inerpretation much better. You just saved some money, my friend. Thanks.

The ATF will not rule in your favor here. In front of 12 jurors, when the prosecutor points at the gun and asks them where the trigger housing is at, what do you think they will say? The strap of steal that houses the trigger is pretty obvious. You can bury your head in the sand on this one if you like.

I don't know what your U.S. parts count is, but if you go with a U.S. trigger gaurd, it would take out one more foreign part. Trigger housings are on the ATF list.

I have ten guns and ten mags, and I found that two of the guns would not allow ANY of the ten mags to clip into place. The other 8 guns worked fine with all of the mags. It would appear that in my case, the locking lever on two of the guns is just a hair too long.

It's not even close. The Saiga mag tilts way forward like a 10mm MP5 mag in order to position the shell at an upward attack angle. The front catch on the G3 mag would need to be about 3/4" of an inch lower and the whole front end would need to be cut way down. It is possible to get it to work, but it is nowhere near as easy as the pics imply. The Saiga can feed rounds fine if they go high out of the mag, since there is a barrel hood extension on the top of the barrel similar to a Coonan .357 Mag barrel. The Saiga does not feed well at all with a low feed position out of the magazine.