imarangemaster

I actually really like the Saiganov stocks. I also have the Tapco Intrafuse handguard on mine. I am putting a K-Var nato length stock on my Saiga (unconverted) but have the Saiganov stock for trips out of Kalifornistan to Free America. I am putting an aluminum trough in my Tapco handguards to act as a heat shield, and adding a standard vented gas tube with polymer top handguard to increase protection.

What color stain did you use on your furniture? Looks awesome. Sweet!

Thanks I have threaded Saigas before, but had to cut the barrel shroud with a dremel, because of the dimples they used before. I have also cut off the FSB and used a 24mmm 74 brake, before. I don't want to go that route, however, because I just want to mount the Tri-Delta barake.

My 2013 produced IZ132 has FSB pins instead of the dimples of the earlier ones. How hard are they to get out, and do they come out left to right like AR FSB taper pins? I am going to thread the barrel for the Tactical Tri-delta brake and crush washer I am getting. If it is to much of a pain, I will use a cut off wheel on a dremel instead. Thanks in advance.

There is a small outfit that makes a "Tactical Tri-Delta" muzzle brake. About the size of an A2 flash hider. It comes in 14x1mmL, for 7.62x39 cal, 1/2x28 for 223, and 5/8x24 for 300 BLK and 7.62x51 Nato. I used one on a 300BLK M4gery and it works awesome! I ordered the 14x1L version and threading my Saiga barrel for it. I am also going to get the 223 version for my 5.56 M4gey build. The 14x1 L version is on sale for $28.50 with free shipping. The 1/2x28 5.56 and .308 58/24 versions are $38.50 https://www.custommuzzlebrakes.com/#!/~/product/category=10112104&id=38434451 PS: It

I got mine for $600 out the door just before the ban (including $26 DROS and $45.00 tax. Worked out to $530 for the weapon). The fact that it is Russian made in the Izhmash AK factory (making REAL Russian AKs for 68 years) with a hammer forged chrome lined barrel, is worth a lot to me. With less than $200 to do a first rate conversion, you have a REAL Russian Automat Kalashnikov. Also, you can make it into what ever you want: East German side folder, Russian side fold, ACE stock, rails, or whatever. If I lived in free america, I would use an East German ( or Romanian) side folder and a Ro

Latest updates o my Siaga: Ordered a K-VAR Nato length AK s74 stock to replace the factory stock. The Nato length is about 1.5" longer than the standard AK stock. I will use it in Kalifornistan, and the saiganov stock in free America. Also going to order a Bulgarian vented AK74 gas tube, and run it with the Tapco handguard. The vented Bulgarian and East German gas tubes help decrease some of the snap from the over-gassing that AK run on. It made a noticable difference on the last build I used one. Best of both worlds. This will protect me from the top of the gas tube, whil

My favorite mgs, in no particular order: Polish polymer with steel inserts (military ones, not commercial) Bulgarian Circle 10s Russian burnt orange bakelite

The only Russian HP ammo that works well, has the Ulyanovsk 124 Grain 8HP and 8M3 "Effect" bullets. It has a rounded ogive with an almost stubby look, and deep pre-fail cuts in the jacket, inside the hollow point cavity. First it was imported under the ulyanovsk name in white boxes with blue or black writing. Then for several years the Wolf Military Classic 124 HPs used the bullet. By 2010, wolf was switching to a cheaper bullet. Recently, Tulammo introduced a 124 HP with an 8M3 bullet. Those boxes are marked made in Ulyanovsk on them. Tulammo 122 HPs, are junk. Their bullet is not as

I think a very thin sheet metal shim might do it. It sounds like the bullets are entering too low, then kicking up when they hit the chamber. Something like the thin aluminum in duct work.

There was a lot of hype when the first came out, and demand (sic prices) were high. Just like US Palm. They were STUPID expensive when they came out, and all the AK gurus said they were the best thing. I got one, and thought it was no better than a Tapco. At least the Tapco you could intentionally remove the base plate for disassembly and cleaning. The US Palms are not supposed to be able to disassemble with the bottom cup/base plate epoxied on. The problem was, they had a nasty habit of disassembling themselves when the magazine was loaded, with the glue on the baseplate letting go.....

Nope, all target have to be mounted on the fixed target frame so bullets impact squarely into the burm and do no t skip. trust me, I asked.... Some ranges allow that.

Well, I tried to get my Saiga dialed in again, without much luck. The range we went to today we found out had a minimum of 50 yards. We had planned on going to Pala which has 25 yard sight in range, and I was set up for that. Unfortunately there was a last minute change, All I had was 25 yard sight in targets, and all they had was SR1 100 yard bullseyes, Neither is worth a damn for 50 yards. The SR1 is too big to get a consistent sight picture, and the 25 yard target is too small, and covered by the front post. I got some 3 to 4 inch groups at 50, which is terrible. I didn't even tr

I wouldn't say "much" cheaper... $8 is the going rate for Tapco here, Magpuls are $11. Ah, Last time I checked is when they Magpuls first came out and were the "must have" item. Prices were around $20 then, IIRC.

I know the purist hate them, but the Tapco AK mag for $10 is a great mag. Much cheaper than the Magpuls, and In my opinion, just as tough as the Magpul. For serious,work, though, I would use steel com-block, bugarian circle 10s, or Polish ones with the steel inserts.

I think I have one I'll sell cheap

Ah ha! That's a recent offering. You would be good to go with the setup. very cool that they are offering that.

I did not take any pictures. Basically, here is what I did with a cut off wheel grinder, and a small dremel cut off. If you use a single hook G2 it is easier. Use the stock housing with Disconnector as a guide. 1) cut the trigger off the bottom of it's housing, and make it smooth like the factory one. 2) trim a little metal off the BOTTOM of the rear edge of the G2 assembly where the lever from the stock trigger engages it. IIRC, it is about 1/32". Once again, use the stock housing as a guide. If you don't remove some of the metal on the G2, the sear can disengage too soon when pull

Get the new model Tapco front sight tool. It is milled for the bumps on the front sight base around the cross pin the sight is screwed in, that a Saiga has that other AKs do not. As far as retainer, what one are you using? If it is one with a set screw to tighten against the barrel, try dimpling the barrel where the set screw in the retainer engages it. It only takes a little bit of a dimple in the barrel for the set screw to engage?

To say Spenceville is scary on a weekend is an understatement! Imagine a family reunion picnic, a drunken brawl, WWF wrestling, gang banger get together, all with guns..... People sweep each other with loaded weapons, go downrange while people are shooting, and do stupid things with loaded guns all rolled into one. It is absolute scary chaos.

The Pala range down by San Diego allows steel jacket on paper targets, but not steel targets. They have an LEO/Fire discount, also. http://www.ncsapala.com/

Well, I have been dying to go to the range and shoot my new Saiga, especially since I replace the FCG with a Tapco G2 modified to replicate the stock FCG and installed a bullet guide. After three false starts (where my range trip was pre-empted by "she who must be obeyed" coming up with things she thought were more important for me to do) in the last month, today was to be the day. I got off work at 7AM and drove down to the California DF&G Spenceville range about 15 minutes from my work. Understand, this is the only free range in a 100 mile circle (or more) and pacls up EVERY day an

VERY SWEET!! I like it. I love those E. German/Romanian side folders. I'd take the spring off. It just tensions it, but if it is not loose, it is not needed.

Swivel holes on receiver?????

I left mine stock (no pistol grip) and replaced the FCG with modified G2 Tapco. I used Tapco hammer, disconnector, and trigger (with trigger ground off and modified to replicate the stock sear/disconnector set up. Very sweet trigger pull for a stock configuration. Se my Kaliforniacation Saiga thread.