Maverick223

I have heard (but not tried) that using a aircraft paint stripper will take about anything off with ease. Give it a try, but dab a bit in a inconspicuous place for a trial before you go dunking it. +1 on the Duracoat and Moly Resin; both are good although the finish is better with Duracoat and Moly Resin is easier to apply IIRC. Haven't used (or seen in person) a finish using Alumi Hyde but have heard about good results from its use. Good Luck, Mav.

Hey Jangles - Yes indeed, CGW is doing the RAAC warranty work from here out. For the rest of you, this information and procedure for warranty work will be posted this week in our business section, and is supposed to appear on the RAAC site sometime soon, as well. Ms Vicki was working on the draft of the warranty order form last night. I would like to note, that although this thread is a good one, if it fails, it will VOID your gun's warranty, and you will have to pay to have it fixed. Please do be sure that this fix is going to work for you and that you can accomplish it before you try to

I retract my previous comment, I have heard good things about Cadiz Gun Works (although I haven't inspected their work myself). If you don't mind the wait I would send it to them, and worry about more important things like ninjas . ~ Mav.

I would do it yourself, I have found very few gunsmiths that do acceptable work, even less that I consider good that are in the Charlotte, NC area. I don't like the idea of sending it to RAAC gunsmiths as I have not seen their work (and have heard of some doing poor work). If you really do not want to do it yourself, send it to someone like reputable...there seem to be a few here. Best of luck, Mav. like reputable man...lol

I would do it yourself, I have found very few gunsmiths that do acceptable work, even less that I consider good that are in the Charlotte, NC area. I don't like the idea of sending it to RAAC gunsmiths as I have not seen their work (and have heard of some doing poor work). If you really do not want to do it yourself, send it to someone like reputable...there seem to be a few here. Best of luck, Mav.

This mod can be done without harming the finish of the gun. Be careful. Protect the gun where necessary with masking tape, etc. if you feel the need. Why do you NEED to add gas ports? Even if you only have a two port gun it should cycle ALL ammo types according to RAAC. Are the ports unobstructed and clean? If your gun has not yet been converted, check with RAAC about getting it repaired/replaced by them. If you want to repair your own gun, I would consider enlarging your existing gas ports SLIGHTLY before attempting to drill another hole in the barrel. Drilling a hole in

Looking for parts to use? Try a large steel bearing (out of a car AC compressor or slingshot ammo?) for the top bit. You can get the curved portion of a typical hardened padlock (sorry if I stole your idea, it looks like what you used). You can get the diameter of stock (locking bar) and the radius that you want from your local home-to-pot or slowes, and it is relatively cheap. I would do it but then how would I lock up the shed... Also, have you shot it since the mod, and if so are you in danger of loosing a nose with a short stock conversion. I have...um...had a big nose.

Wow, i'm "that guy"...the one that makes the thread an additional page...lol

This mod can be done without harming the finish of the gun. Be careful. Protect the gun where necessary with masking tape, etc. if you feel the need. Why do you NEED to add gas ports? Even if you only have a two port gun it should cycle ALL ammo types according to RAAC. Are the ports unobstructed and clean? If your gun has not yet been converted, check with RAAC about getting it repaired/replaced by them. If you want to repair your own gun, I would consider enlarging your existing gas ports SLIGHTLY before attempting to drill another hole in the barrel. Drilling a hole in

Great tutorial...thanks, Mav. You could try the AK rivets but the rear holes end up so close to the front edge of the block you may not have enough material for it to hold. Even when I tap the rear holes you can see lite impresions of the threads protuding on the outside if the block. It's very close for the real holes. I actually did the first block I modified with standard rivets. I had to over size the rear holes in the block so there would be enough room for the rivets to expand. So what happened was while drilling the rear holes it made a very ugly opening all the

How does the choke mount, does it use typical inner barrel threads, or the outside threads?

Have you thought about adding a compensator for braking instead/also? At least then you will look like a man...LOL.

I am assuming you are referring to the Galil style charging handle, don't think milling is involved. Just chop and weld; however I am worried about loosing the temper on the bolt(softening the steel), especially since I only own a mig welder. Been considering adding one...are these well designed/easy to operate? P.S.: I realize it is a stupid question, as they ARE designed/pioneered by Israelis, who use "AKs" with real sights, etc...LOL.