bamabound

Good advise, folks! I will change springs when shooting high brass or slugs. I am just overjoyed to have it cycle with low brass. My shoulder is pleased too!

I have been following everyone's advice and suggestions on getting the 12 to work with low brass. The only thing I did not do was drill the gas port holes bigger. But the thing that made it finally work was replacing the recoil spring. I bought the #1 and #2 from CSS, not knowing which would work. They both work and it will almost eject low brass on the #1 setting on the gas plug. So, if you are having trouble with low brass not cycling, a easy fix might be to replace the recoil spring

Try ordering a special build from Kimber! 7 months and never an email until it finally shipped. But, like the man said it was worth the wait! The one thing I am fascinated by and fully support is all the small businesses that have been created from a Russian product. Irony!!

OK! Thanks I have fired about 150, with 30 being low brass. Would you bore out the gas ports or shoot the brass first?

Thank you for the info. I am putting the stock hammer back in and reshaped the conversion hammer. let's see if either works. I also have a new hammer spring, but I don't think that is the culprit. I should have checked the size of the ports when I had the gas block apart, but live and learn. The recoil spring will be the next adventure if none of the above works.

Thanks for the photos. All three of your ports are now visible...Kudos! I see two major issues immediately. The geometry of your hammer, and the size of your ports. You need to increase port size to 3/32". You also appear to have a "crimp" in your receiver which may be restricting the bolt carrier from moving efficiently. Thanks Do I need to flatten the hammer? And where on the receiver do you see a crimp? Is it on the rails?

Stock forearm and cycles by hand just fine. However if I impede the the forward movement it hangs up 3/4" from going completely forward.

Here are two more shots

Here is the bolt assembly And here is the trigger And here are the ports I can take a bunch more off the trigger, but I want to not take off too much and mess with the inertia thing.

Evening all, My S12 is still not cycling low brass and am wondering about the physics of various pucks (I'm watching hockey and this popped into my brain cell) I have polished and ground down the bolt and feed ramps and trigger. I have uncovered all of the holes in the barrel (1 was completely covered-it has three now, but I didn't increase the size). It throws high brass about 10 feet and acts stupid with low brass. The bolt lacks about 3/4" in its rearward travel in being successful in cycling. So... do certain pucks have different masses to force the piston rearward? How

Will work on it tomorrow.

Range Report Ordered new spring from CSS, but the bending the leg of the spring works. Found a box of high brass, mag shells and went to the range and the 12 cycled just fine. The grinding and polishing did not help with low brass ammo. However after shooting the box of mags and then going back to the low brass, it seemed to have helped the cycling. The shells ALMOST made it out before being smashed by the bolt. So...will work on the blocked holes per JeffD's work http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=33836

Spent a few minutes more observing and grinding with fine sand paper. I am working the action by hand with and with out the spring. It is beginning to smoothly move with a little effort. However, every once in a while it jams up tight and I can't move the bolt forward at all. And the problem is....the spring walks under the disconector and won't allow the hammer to move down as the bolt travels over it.

Thanks for the pics The hammer is definetly part of the problem. It's height is impeding the forward movement. I did notice putting this bolt in the 12 was difficult. I can do the x39 with my eyes closed

YIKES! Did your test and... With the trigger pulled, and hammer on the disconnector, the bolt WON"T go forward. It is time to measure original trig and new trig. And grind a bit.

I have a pic of the one visiable hole but it is too big to upload. We used to use photobucket to load pics, but that isn't working. Will try later with different settings on cam.

Here is a pic of two pics in the unseen holes

Thank you for the links. I've read so much I have forgotten where to find what I need. I will check the hammer (grind a bit, polish a bit) and check gas hole sizes. Hand cycles just fine. Throughs shells a good ways.

Hmmmm! Sure didn't. Will check Thanks

Thanks Took it apart tonight to check to make sure the 3 ports are open and they are. How snug a fit does the puck have to be? Is gas supposed to escape around the puck and push the piston rearward or does just the movement of the puck striking the piston the only force affecting the piston and bolt to move?

Hey folks, Took my 12 to the range and was disappointed/frustrated. It has 3 ports and I can kinda see 1 1/2 of them but can get a lock pic in the hidden one so I am assuming it is partially open. Polished everything, tromix parts. It worked with high brass when it was unconverted, so... Today I had only low brass and it would not eject at all. On #2 the bolt would almost get completely open, then hang. On #1 setting the bolt was completely closed and hardly began its cycle. Will hit the ammo store tomorrow for some high brass and try again. Thoughts?

how about 1951 It's been lucky for me for close to 60 years

Ironwood has some suggestions on finishing that I may try. I have never used Watco Exterior Wood Finish. http://www.ironwooddesigns.com/IWDsite/IWDfinish.html I have a 870 express 20 ga. I need to refinsh also so maybe I can compare and now that I know how to send pics I can share. Thanks for the info Thom

I got the Russian laminate AKM stock set in our Want To Sell Section from forum member Tokarz1. They can be found elsewhere on the net, or US made by BattleriffleG3 through Dinzags website. Post a Want to buy add in the private sales section & you are sure to get some options quickly. Finishing the way I did it takes about two weeks. This is how I did it: Sand it down to bare wood, then with 500 grit. Then 1 heavy coat Minwax Red Mahogany stain, don't wipe off. Let dry 1 day. LIGHTLY wipe off excess. Then 1 more heavy coat Minwax Red Mahogany stain, don't wipe off,