barely

Mine is before the XN model (ie. pre-XN if you will). After some more checking, I believe that I'll try opening the magwell slightly with a hand file. Not only will this hopefully assist with mag insertion, but it appears as though it may allow the mag to seat slightly deeper for the magazine to lock. I did find that one of the new OEM 10 round magazines will lock into place if very firmly inserted. Therefore, I don't believe that it'll take much...

Brand new RAAC 10 round mags appear to not seat deeply enough to lock into the magwell. Are others having the problem and what is the best method to fix? I assume that they can be fixed by removing material to allow the mags to seat deeper into the magwell. Probably possible by removing material from either the mag or even the magwell (ie. magwell is not my 1st choice). Also, I assume that the mag catch slot can be modified too. What have others encountered and how is your success with how you corrected? One a side-note, it looks to me as though these magwells are in desperate need

SOLD pending completion of transaction...

Anyone near the Charlotte, NC (ie. actually a little north in Concord, NC) area that would like to rent or recover some of the cost of their m22x.75 split die, TAT, and handle cost? I'm guessing that most people are like myself and this would be a one-time usage tool. PM me if interested...

Bumped due to price reduction...

I have 3 brand new 15-round magazines from Tactical Solutions that fit the Advantage Arms .22 conversion kits for Glock 17/22, 19/23, & 26/27 models. Received these via mail order on Monday and only 1 of them was removed from the package. The one removed from the package was test fitted to my Glock 17 Gen 4 conversion only and none of them have had a round loaded in the magazine. There is nothing wrong with these magazines. It may be a petty reason, but I do not like how they are slightly longer than an OEM magazine for the G17. They hang out the magwell maybe 1/2" longer than an

Free if you pickup from Concord, North Carolina. Otherwise, it's $20 for items in each picture to cover domestic shipping and my time. I'm just cleaning out some stuff that I don't need. All of these items (except for the AR stock) were taken from new firearms that I own. The AR stock was removed from a used AR. Buy multiple items and I'll cut a deal on shipping. I just need these things gone, but my time is valuable too. Stock and forearm from Saiga 12. I've got (1) set remaining. I've got (2) sets of these. You can have the screws/slings for the stock, but you do NOT get the

Thanks.. I probably should have explained this earlier, but the stock that I am most interested does NOT have an option for a "cheek riser". I really wanted to try the "ACE Club Stock" on this one, but apparently there is not an option for a "cheek riser" unless I wanted to just tape some foam on it. Not really what I want to end up with. Earlier, I referenced using a Magpul stock because it is what I have on my current S12. I was wanting to try something different and are thinking that my choices will need to be narrowed down to ones that have "cheek risers". Not long ago, I tried

Looking to use a Chaos extended quad with their HK sights on my next build, but my gut feeling is that I'll need a cheek riser on the stock. For those running this Chaos setup, would you agree/disagree? Here's my logic. I'm running factory sights on my current S12 with a Magpul CTR stock on a stock tube that has the built-in adapter. Meaning, it's not the pignose adapter where I believe that a little up/down adjustment is available. For myself, if I close my eyes and place my current S12 to my shoulder, then opening my eyes reveals that the sights are fine for a "cheek" weld. Just

Mine runs fine WITHOUT the top piece. Guess that it all depends on whether you are using the factory sight or plan to add something on the top rail.

RamLake, just wanted to say THANKS for the laugh that I got from your avatar.

REMOVED!!!

**SOLD** Insight Technologies HX200 200 lumens programmable LED flashlight. Brand new, never opened. Container is still sealed from the factory. Prices are all over the place on the web, so I thinking that $50 is a fair deal. Will ship via USPS to domestic US only. Money orders and checks are accepted, but I'll wait till the check clears before shipping. I'm pretty sure that I can accept PayPal also, although it's been a while since I used it to accept money. **SOLD**

I doubt that anyone can say what is the "ideal configuration". It's going to be different for every gun is seems. I can say that 3-ports of size 3/32 was NOT enough to shoot my desired low-brass loads, but your mileage may be completely different. Alternatively, I WILL share with you that hole sizes of 3/32 drilled to the correct angle from my experience does not cause so much crud in your gas block that you are required to clean at the range. Of course the gas block gets filthy, but 3/32 never caused so much that I had to dump the crude at the range.

Let me clarify.. My autoplug fully tightened and screwed all the way into the gas block was not 100% reliable with Federal 7 1/2 value packs. Plus, the ejection of the shells dropped them fairly close. That is the shell that I want to shoot in bulk..

Quick update on the route that I took. After removing the gas block, I had decided to drill a 4th hole of 3/32. But after looking at the triangular pattern of my current 3 holes, I was going to need to open the hole in the gas block to allow a place for the 4th hole. So I started getting some measurments from what would be un-obstructed with my autoplug, and I realized that I CANNOT expand the gas block hole towards the gas block threads any further or it would be under the autoplug. Then I thought about moving it towards the breech, but I can see where the puc moves around and there is

I've read that getting another hole in the barrel isn't really that tough of a job. I'm not worried about that aspect. I've got the tools and a drill press, although my apparently limited set of drill bits does jump from 3/32 to 7/64. Plus, I'm not really worried if I need to open the hole in the gas block if the 4th hole needs some breathing room. I think that I've done about all the reading on this subject that I can, but I'm just at the point of looking for anyone's recommendation as to what size the 4th hole should be drilled. Here is my logic: Sounds like 3 hole guns enjoy the

Thanks all. Sounds like opening a port to 7/64 would be the easiest route, but anymore than that and I'd most likely be causing too much crude. Because I didn't mention earlier, let me just clarify that none of my three ports are obstructed and that my last shooting was with the CSS booster puck. So if I were inclinded to take the "hard route", anyone got any prior experience with adding a 4th hole regarding which size seemed to work. If I had to guess (which is exactly what I'd be doing), I'd probably go with a 4th hole of the correct angle at a size of 1/16. Right? Wrong? Maybe?

I've got a 3 port gun that I've personally ran a new 3/32 drill bit through to confirm the size that I'm now considering adding a little more gas. Reason for wanting more gas is because it seems as though I've had to fully tighten the autoplug adjustment screw to the max to get the Federal 7 1/2 value pack to cycle. Personally, I'd rather have a little more adjustment in the autoplug for when I run slugs at an occasional match. I know the debate about high brass loads, but shooting the cheap stuff in mass quantities is where I have more fun with this rifle. Plus, I'm having to share it wit

For a firearm that has already been finished, can this be done by a do-it-yourself'r so that the finish is not destroyed except for under the attachment? For example, can an attachment (ie. such as the monster brake) be added to a shortened barrel if the gun has already been cerakoted without destroying the final finish with the brake installed? Second question.. Are there any specifics on the definition of "permanently" attached. I know that welding/solder would be considered permenant, but both of those choices would definitely damage the cerakote finish around the barrel/muzzle area.

Thank you for the response, but I want to keep up the "evil" looks of this firearm. Thanks though... My wife says that I have no patience. I have to agree with her on this one. Doing my best over here to wait for the toothed version...

Waiting for Cobra to produce more of these, but would purchase used if you've got one available now. I want the WinChoke adapter for the S12 that has the "spiked" end. PM me with your price.

Thanks! It's the "Saiga Slotted Choke Tube Adapter" that I guess my google-kung-foo was unable to locate. Thanks..

Poly chokes and "dedicated" chokes are all that I see...

Looking for a screw-in winchoke adapter for the S12. Cobra made some that were "exactly" like I'm seeking, but they are not available at the moment and I was curious whether anyone else makes these. I can find several poly-choke versions, but I just prefer the screw-in winchoke style. Thanks...