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Typo, fixed. Though I doubt anybody was confused as to my meaning...

I am a Saiga rookie, but from what I've read and my own initial testing, I'd try two things: First, verify # of gas ports you have. Very easy to do with a small dental pick through the front of the gas tube. You can feel the ports when the pick drops in them, even if you cant see them. If you pull the bolt carrier and shine a light down the barrel, you can see the tip of the pick drop in through each port. Second, go back to 100% stock configuration and baseline the gun. Stock, puck, spring, and adjuster if you changed that as well. FTE's? Then new puck, with original stock. FTE's?

My 7.62 has the velcro rub-out on the right side, and is etched 'US Sporting Goods' on the left side. It appears that US Sporting Goods (USSG) is the same company as European American Armory (EAA). If you go to the USSG web site (www.ussginc.com) and hit download catalog, you get the EAA catalog. And the footer on each page of the .pdf EAA catalog shows this (note the eaa and ussg email addresses): Perhaps this is common knowledge.... But it was confusing me that my rifle said US Sporting goods and I typically wasn't seeing USSG as a Saiga importer. Mystery solved, for me at leas

I know this topic has been discussed before, but wanted some opinions and/or advice on my front and rear sights... Newly converted 7.62. Front sight is pushed quite far towards the right when zero'ed at 50 yards. Rear sight seems to have some spring-loaded wiggle to it. It doesn't move around on it's own, but I think if it was stable at the other side of it's range when pushed, the front sight would line up better. Front sight: Rear sight: [media=] [/media] I wanted to pull the rear sight to check it out in more detail. At least a dozen different methods shown on

The S12 is definitely a winner. I debated between getting the new build RWC S12 or a new old-stock EAA S12. Glad I went for the new one! But I'm still sorting out some minor issues with my newly converted Saiga 7.62. The front sight post is pushed pretty far to the right to be zero'ed, and the rear sight has some spring-loaded wiggle to it. Sounds like it isn't an uncommon issue, but if I can tweak the rear sight into better alignment or get rid of the wiggle, I'd be a bit happier.

I've been reading all these front sight threads, as my front sight looks like this to be zero'ed at 50 yards. Obviously a bit off from center in the ears. I'll check my rear sight, and either live with it, give it a hammer whack, or take it to somebody for a re-pin.

Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one... My Saiga 7.62 front sight needed to be set pretty far to the right when zero's at 50, both right out of the box and after conversion. Thoughts? Here's a picture of where the front sight sits to be zero'ed at 50 yards:

Picked up a new Saiga 12 recently and took it out for some function testing today... New Saiga-12 RWC IZ-109 Approval stamp January 27, 2012. Fresh out of box, 100% stock, even lubed as it came from the factory. Probed with dental pick and found four gas holes. Slight amount of debris knocked out of holes with dental pick. Test 1: Factory magazine. Five rounds of Federal Premium 00 Buckshot, 2-3/4", 1,325 FPS. Gas adjuster turned all the way in, to gas setting 1. Results: Round 1, FTE. Manually eject. Round 2, FTE. Manually eject. ** Rotate gas adjuster out 1 full turn

I have always tapped by hand, but both of the alternatives were methods that others have used very successfully. Certainly Dinzag deserved the benefit of the doubt with his "put the tap in the drill press and turn it by hand" method, and I've seen others use the cordless drill method many times. And while russian steel might have not been the ideal place to experiment, it came out *perfect*.

I like to load my home defense mossberg pump with (in firing order) Bird, bird, buck, buck, slug. Though I it unlikely that any intruder is still going to be aggressive after a chest/gut/face load of birdshot at 20 feet...

Same problem here. I remembered seeing on Dinzag's website the suggestion to not remove the workpiece from the drill press after drilling, and just chuck the tap into the press and turn it in by hand for perfect alignment. I did this for a turn or two, but was a bit freaked out at not being able to really gauge how much downward pressure I was applying with the press handle. I'd seen the guys on American Chopper (admittedly, not exactly the most precision builders) endlessly run their taps in cordless drills. Even though in the back of my mind, I kept hearing "DON'T DO IT!!!", I chucked

Looks like Bud's is now out of stock on the EAA S-12 and bumped the price of the RWC S-12 a few bucks to $628...

Looks like a nice part. When the barrel shroud is cut off with a pipe cutter to expose the barrel, a length of the shroud normally remains in front of the sight block. (see pic with pipe cutter in it). This adapter covers that portion of the barrel shroud and provides a standard 24mm X 1.5 thread to fit many modern muzzle devices.

I just found this thread. Great info! I just bought and converted my first Saiga, purchased a few weeks ago from Bud's. It's an H09 serial number (7.62), has dimples & hg slots, a beveled/rounded external circumference on the chamber-side of the barrel, but most importantly, it sure looks like you can see threads in the gap between the shroud and the barrel! Cool! So is there any consensus on the 'best' way to trim off the shroud? Pipe cutters, dremels, and fine-tooth hacksaws seem to be the methods I've seen posted.

Just ordered from Bud's. RWC IZ-109 $616 shipped, plus my $20 local FFL transfer fee. I didn't see the post about clarkearms until after I placed the order... He is actually a couple of bucks cheaper. I'll update when it arrives. Lone Star, just checked out your website. Some beautiful Saiga builds! Probably a bit beyond my current budget though :-)