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Brian M1

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About Brian M1

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  1. It basically comes down to this... you have few options: A) use SGM mags. Perfect fit and work flawlessly. Designed to fit YOUR rifle. B.) add bullet guide and use Circle 10 mags. There are 2 ways to go about this. You can either file out the interdiction tab, file the center support bar, and mil out the front trunion to fit them, or: fit each mag to fit. That means filing off about 1mm from front lip, and a few off the rear of feed lip area + the rear locking lug area. (or a combination of both, unique to your own rifle) C) AR mag (stanag) adapter. This enables you to run standard nato
  2. I'm VERY interested in this new "universal" adapter! Any info you can leak to us?
  3. I was watching a video of a MSA/TAKD AR mag adapter in a Saiga and I had an idea! One thing I didn't like about the AR mag adapter is that it leaves the Saiga mags (when adapter removed) fitting a tad sloppy. That drives me nuts. I'm willing to part ways with .223 mags (they're getting harder to find metal tabbed ones anyway), so I'd like to go "full on AR mags". So, I looked into the "TAKD bastard". Well, that appears to be a FANTASTIC solution!... but I don't want to strip my entire lower (I have it set up just the way I like it). So.... I had this brain storm idea... What about grinding
  4. Hmm... and to add to this that Arsenal dropped all 106 (5.56) line. It's starting to feel like the Saiga (or Saiga based, such as Arsenal) .223/5.56's are no more?
  5. Just be careful painting mag internals. Paint can get tacky and soft under heat and wear (as well as solvent's and oil), which may affect the mag's performance. I've had decent luck with Rustoleum flat black engine enamel (baked on) on exteriors, but personally I'd avoid internals.
  6. I had a UTG style rail on my M10, but swapped it out for standard poly handguard. It was a solid/sturdy unit, for sure. The one thing that urked me though was how it mounts. It mounts by squeezing itself around the barrel and gas tube. The gas tube is not really that strong and I've read reports of them bending from the pressure (causing excessive wear and some reports of "bind up") of that railed handguard. Just keep an eye on it.
  7. Recent shipments of Saiga x39's came in some time ago... but no .223's. I'm keeping an eye out because I may do another project .223 but with AR mag conversion this time. It seems we haven't seen .223's for quite some time now. Any news on that?
  8. Yeah, $41 AND they're the undesirable "clear" ones (the clear ones do not have the metal reinforcements that make the black/colored ones legendary. Just an overpriced plastic mag. IMHO, I'd avoid these. Edit: Upon further research, it seems these have metal lugs but no metal in the feed lips. That's a decent trade off, however I'm not sure if the clear/smoke mags are still made as brittle as they used to be reported as. If they were under $35, I'd give them a shot, but not at over $40.
  9. Yes. THESE: http://acecase.com/magazine-pouch-6-pack.html I use this for my Saiga SGM/30 mags and it works fantastic for them. My review of it (w/ pics of SGM's in it) here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/78735-ace-case-shoulder-magazine-pouch-review/
  10. Truth. I never thought I'd see the day when even the most basic AK style rifle would cost more than a basic AR. Today is that day.
  11. I'm contemplating selling my S223. It's a dimpled 16" '09, with less than 1k rounds through it. It has perfectly centered sights with zero cant, A CSS conversion kit w/ "unmodified" G2 FCG (no bolt hold open lever), CSS billet trigger guard, MFT Engage grip, K-var warsaw length stock, no bullet guide (runs SGM mags) and CSS FCG retaining plate, no prior trigger linkage holes (jb welded). What's it worth in todays market?
  12. The gas tube does not contribute to ANY pressure. ALL of the required pressure is in the first half inch of the gas block. An AK will run without ANY gas tube what so ever, so long as the piston finds it way back into the gas block. This is why gas tubes are fluted. The flutes are to help expel the worthless (post gas block) gases out.
  13. Here's some pics to illustrate the RSR1 I used: Here you can see the groove for use as a back up "iron" (and it works well): Here you'll notice I use the front bolt in the opposite side that Samson recommends. This is because if you use the other side, it will block the gas tube lever. The whole insert is threaded, so you can use either side. I suggest using the NON lever side (as I did): And in this picture you can see the rear bolt (there are only 2, one through bolt in the front, and the tightening one in the back/rear). When this bolt (silver round under rail) is ti
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