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About young_machinist

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  1. I know this has been done a lot before but I thought I’d show mine since I’m working on a pistol build like others on here and wanted a short gas tube for it. First I’ll mention the collar I went lazy and ordered one from MSC direct. (13/16” [.8125”] bore size) took it to 22.0mm (.866) I then went to school to machine the swedge. I was given what I was told was 4140 chromoly but half way through an other instructor said it was actually 1144 stress proof. That’s the fun of unlabeled metals in the shop I guess. Turned on a Harrison M300 which is a good medium sized lathe for the job. Quick part to make and good ak building tool for sure. I will post soon with results, I just need to anneal the end of tube so it doesn't crack.
  2. Sorry for the dumb questions I figured out the trigger spacer. Can anyone tell me if I dimple the back holes for rear trunnion. The long swell necks seem to fit in one side fine but its definitely not dimpled. So would I hurt the spot welds on the square back reinforcement plates by dimpling?
  3. So I started this build with a Nodak Spud LLC square back psl receiver and the 15 piece psl armorers kit from Center fire systems. Since this is my first battle with these beasts I was hoping to get some advice. How necessary is the psl trigger spacer washer to the alignment of everything, do I need to buy it and also if any one knows where it goes, left or right of trigger on axis pin? Also the bolt carrier seemed to be way to hard to push in when assembling or when the gun cycles. Im aware AK variants have their hang ups but this seems like it will cause the gun to lock up each shot. Very anxious to test fire once barrel is made and trunnion is bought. And Happy Manufacturing day! (Friday Oct 7th, 2016)
  4. Got the holes finished but still waiting on 2 blue and 2 green vials plus Norland 61 compound and 365nm uv light Trijicon Chevron
  5. After ordering the 2x6mm Ice blue vials for mbus rear the other day. I wanted more for all my rifles and pistols without tritium or with dying tritium. What I found readily available- 0.95 x 3.0mm (Green only) 1.4 x 3.5mm (Green only) 1.5 x 6.0mm (All colors) 1.6 x 4.5mm (Green only) 1.55 x 5.0mm (Green, Ice blue, White, Yellow, Orange, Red) - $7.50/ each The sights Im going to drill and fit for these are between $5-$15 so no biggie if I mess up but if done properly then it seems like night sights could be made for a very low cost, givin it wouldn't be trijicon quality.
  6. Thank you for the feedback and advice. FunkedOut did a seriously great job making those sights out of 7075! Thanks for sharing that too. And three of my other pistols are green on green so I been wanting to mix it up with something different. Also a website mixglo.com has some vials with reflective paint one side to make the vial glow brighter, this idea might be a good way to make duller colors pop for the front post. And could you explain the whole hollow out the base thing for powering fiber optic U? That sounds like a project I'd like to try.
  7. Hi all, so like the title suggests this is a do it yourself thread for tritium night sights. Before starting these projects I did a lot of research and this is what I found. Tritium gas is kept in boroscillicate glass sometimes at high pressure. It was easiest to start with polymer sights so I picked a Magpul mbus rear sight. I highly recommend this sight to start with since it has two divets that act as pilot holes for 2mm diameter tritium vials. Other then the sights and vials, all you will need is a drill press with x y vise and some loctite glass bond. I bought 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm 2 flute HSS end mills for this instead of drill bits. Will be posting pics of process once vials arrive. (2 ice blue for rear and Trijicon chevron post for front) After this I will be attempting on steel glock oem sights and blank sights. Tritium colors include: white, green, ice blue, yellow, orange, red, pink, blue, purple Good sizes for firearm sight projects: 0.95 x 3mm (skinny dot) 0.95 x 4mm (skinny dot) 1.5 x 3mm (standard tijicon dot size) 1.5 x 5mm (standard tijicon dot size) 2 x 4mm (standard dot without sleeve) 2 x 5mm (standard dot without sleeve) 2.5 x 4mm (slightly larger dot) 2.5 x 5mm (slightly larger dot) 3 x 5mm (big dot) 3 x 6mm (big dot, long tube) Hardest part of all this is finding where you want to put the holes and checking clearance so you don't drill through the other side. The heat shrink tubing may be difficult to find and apply to vial also but it would give authentic look of trijicon ns set. If anyone has any experience with tritium night sights I'd really like any advice or tips on it. Thanks to all for reading. Also tritium comes in rectangular and spherical shapes instead of conventional cylindrical tubes, I feel the possibilities are unless with this stuff.
  8. Drooling over here damn! Man this is clean as well! Thanks are you building a cat12 also?
  9. It started to run the 2 3/4 1oz 7.5 shot with out hiccups today. $7.95 a box at local shop Before without 4 port gas plug, it really liked 2 3/4 1 1/4oz 4 shot. $12.95 a box It of course enjoys 00 buck and slugs
  10. This is my Century arms C39 version 1 I bought it brand new almost 3 years ago and have ran this thing through the mud and back with friends. Over 4k rounds and only one ftf due to primer seated to low. This gun by far was the best budget AK variant. For $650 at the time for lighting charging handle and enlarged mag release was what got me. Then I fitted Vltor ak buffer tube and Troy alpha rail real easy. Also has Ultimak gas tube, Alg flat bow trigger and Krebs safety. These guns are not only 100% american made (good or bad for some) but they have concentric barrels and tag teamed with Ultimak tube (with vent holes only) make it great host rifle.
  11. Its done now to have fun this weekend
  12. So for this Catamount fury 1 conversion I have gone the easy route with CSS parts. This is a pictorial of what I did. I started by testing the shotgun with some different loads to make sure it would cycle. I then gutted it down to the receiver, barrel and gas block. (and trunnions too) its much easier to work on of course. So then I went at the rivets. I flatten them down then made pilot marks and started with 5/64 working up to 3/16 and I used Dewalt carbide bits and drill. Once the rivets broke off then I tried to carefully brake the tac weld on the back of the trigger guard. In my case a nub was left but I cleaned it up with a dremel real quick making it nice and smooth. I then marked the new holes needed to be drilled for saiga tigger guard and the modified tigger hole to accept single hook triggers. Then once the metal was removed the trigger, hammer and guard were installed. Along with a 4 port css gas plug. Now Im just waiting on the fury stock adapter, buffer tube, moe grip + stock, and railed hand guard. Also I did not like the plastic hole plugs so I put the two old axis pins in the bottom back two holes, then took an old century arms shepherds hook cut it a little, bent it a little. Now those holes are filled with the original pins and it looks good. Question for the fury owners reading this- Do saiga mag release levers fit the fury? they seem to be awful similar in design
  13. Hey cat owners I just bought a F1 in the last two weeks, shot it three times and then tore it down. I have all my css parts on the way. I was just curious if anyone has tried to swap the mag release with a saiga or vepr extended one? they seem to be very similar
  14. was this project ever finished?
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