my762buzz

With quality ammo sub 2 inches at 100 yards. My first 5 shots with double tap ammo made in the usa was about 1.5 inches. Handloaded ammo will do even better. The factory ammo used to gage the gun isn't exactly match quality. If you plan on using Wolf Black box ammo, then expect 2 to 4 inches at 100 yards. I'm not sure if you can find anything less consistent then Wolf Black Box.

Trigger group is sold. All pms are responded to.

Nothing left SPF Paypal funds only or direct trades. I am looking for Tapco G2 single hook trigger groups. Ultimak used one range session and removed I quickly realized I prefer a mount closer to my head. $75 shipped sold pending funds Choate MAK90 stock modified. It looks a bit funny but its solid as hell through and through. $40 shippedsold pending funds The sks trigger group $80 sold The AK trigger guard parts plus the slant brake $ 30 shipped sold The rings are withdrawn.

I have several 16 inch barreled saigas and wanted my Vepr about the same length. I guess I might just forget about doing this.

I have a mojo peep site on my Vepr so this is no longer an issue. My only concern is with the bore chrome lining. With all the smiths that cut AR15, AK, Fal,and M14 barrels this is probably not an issue. Occasionally, I read alarming comments like http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12668

I have read that a new cut crown might be actually better than the factory one. I am on the fence on this issue. I have a 20 inch barreled Vepr and I really like the shorter barrel profile. For those of you that have shortened a barrel on your saiga, have you had any negative issues with the chrome lining? What are the pros and cons?

Thanks. Its a kodak C180. Yes, a laquered steel case.

I have restored two 7.62x39 saigas and only filed the magazine latch as seen in my picture diagram above. I never filed the receiver and all surplus magazines magazines I own fit. All 90 plus mags hungarian, bulgarian, romanian, chinese, etc... I have not restored a .223 so maybe thats what they are referring to.

Hacking at the receiver is bad medicine. The latch alone needs to be trimmed not the receiver. The Horror.

I noticed that an expanding 7.62x389 bullet that stops in 1 ft of ballistic gel will pretty much rip a water jugg completely open because it stops and deposits energy. This happens on the 4th round. The bullets that pass through 2 ft of ballistic gel are not contained in 1 water jugg and do exit. Maximum tissue disruption is going to take place within 16 inches or less of what ballistic gel simulates. If it passes over 16 inches, that is a zone that is no longer useful in a typical terminal effects.

It wasn't mytest. The ammo used in mentioned on the link.

http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=983439 Sorry try the link again. No resgistration needed.

I am going to try and shoot some of these soon and maybe do a range report with pictures and a video. I got two scoped rifles to try these in off of benched sand bags. This is going to be fun.

I was getting ready to shoot some steel plates and compare the results but I think I just saved myself some time. See post number 14 Click here to see Wow, .308 and 7.62x39 went right through where the .223 or 5.45 could not. I'm impressed with the added performance of steel plate penetration over .223 or 5.45 .

there was one for sale in the local gun shop in my home town when i went home for Christmas. if i had $800 i would have snatched it up. I knew someone that bought a MAK with the third hole with the rivot when they were just imported. The dealer called him up a month later and told him to bring the gun back for a refund or he would be getting a visit from the 3 letter agency (A_F). He blazed back to that dealer and got his money back. They are still looking for the ones that were never retrieved. It would suck to get 10 years in the pen because you didn't know you wer

Figure that if you remove 4mm of plastic from the saiga front magazine catch top side yes. See my conversion thread there is a clear diagram.

have a factory pistol grip hole already cut. Maybe I read to much into a few poeple having this happen but can anyone continue to confirm?

There are 6 spots to drill: the two linkage pins on the side toward the back, the three rivots on the bottom that hold the removable plate, and one hole into the trunnion. Once those spots are drilled out, the linkage pins can be removed, the plate can be removed, and the trunnion hole can be tapped. After that, the factory trigger in the rear can be removed and discarded, the linkage parts including the factory modified sear and disconnector can be removed, the factory hammer will continue to work in the same place it starts out in but counts against the foreign parts count, and finally a b

Your welcome.

Its been my pleasure

Your welcome File down the top of the magazine latch that releases the magazine only a little bit at a time until a military surplus magazine locks in. Do not use a promag or any other commercial magazine to judge the minimum clearance only a military surplus magazine. Less than a millimeter of material will have to be removed.

I filed less than 1mm of steel off the top of the mag latch. The latch is the steel piece that pivots on a rivot pin. I circled the surface to file red. To allow the factory mag to fit the bullet guide on the opposite side the factory magazine was also filed and I may put a picture for that part up later today.

The factory handguard has little grooves for the barrel pin to slide against. Same huh?

I seen pictures but can't see enough to tell.