devildog1122

Some people I have seen just left the two holes on each side of the receiver empty. I think it also look kinda cool....

If you are askiing about step 7? I bought 3/16 x 19/32 Hair Pin Clips at lowes to retain the hammer and trigger pins. This fit perfect and secure.

About your trigger won't squeese, check to see if the front portion of your pistol grip is binding with the trigger housing. I had to file a little of the front portion of my pistol grip because it is so close the trigger housing when I pull the trigger.

Tape the screw to a thin object the slide it under the mag release to it stay in place and screw it in inside the receiver.

(1) I do away with the two pins and put a thin piece a metal behind two two holes on each side of the receiver and fill them with Loctite steel & metal bonding compound. Wait 24 hours, file it smooth and blue them. (2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in. (3) I bought 3/16 x 19/32 Hair Pin Clips at lowes to retain the hammer and trigger pins. This fit perfect and secure.

Hi Navy! sorry for the confusion of my wording. I just thought what are the chances of that screw come loose and hit the hammer? If it does, you have to take out the whole fcg to tiighten up again. For my situation, when I put the hammer in it actually bind with the pan head screw. I got the flatless pan head screw I can find at lowes and it still bind. I notice this becuase if you take you fcg out and leave the hammer in and let it go forward, it will not touch the reinforement receiver pin.

Not even one person use this K-Var FCG. I got this FCG today and install it in my 762, and it was amazing smooth and light. I would say around 3-4 pounds, this is ccomparable to the Tapco G2 FCG. I would recommend this K-Var FCG to anyone interested buying. Great product.

Solid. This way look much better. If you look at the trigger guard, it pretty much sits in the cut slot in front of the pistol grip and preventing it from moving side to side. The Loctie steel metal adhesive is solid..

Very nice rifle.....too nice. Until people like this hold and shoot your rifle, they don't have any idea or appreciation the difference between the stock Saiga and AK-103.

What I did with my trigger guard was attached pan head screw at the back where the pistol grip is and cut the front section of the trigger straight and line it with the back of the mag release. I went to Lowes and got some Loctite steel and metal compound to use for the front part of the trigger guard. If you use screw under the mag release, you will find out that the pan head screw will barely miss the hammer inside the recceiver and that is not a good thing.

Relax! all those riviets are easy to take out, this is what I did, file the rivet heads flat with a metal file, center punch the rivets and drill the rivets with a bit slighlty bigger than the rivets until barely touching the receiver and punch out the riviets. The hardest part in the conversion to me was drilling out the spot weld, everything else is pretty easy....

Take your time, drill enough to where it almost touch the receiver. Take a punch and puch out the pin often, you shouldn't have to hit hard. This is the easiest two pins you will have drill out in the whole conversion.....

IndyArms, well said, Amen.........

When you purchase Saiga rifle, it should come with grouping of that rifle document in the manual with person's name who did the test fire. I own 3 Saigas, .223,762 and 308 they all very accurate. Test fire from factory at 100m with open sight: .223 87mm = around 4" 762 90mm = around 4 " 308 102mm = around 4" My personal grouping experience with these rifles with open sight is about the same as the facotry. I have never shot Saigas rifle with scope, so I could not tell you how accurate it is with scope. I was in Marines for 8 years and I was always being told that accuracy on

The trigger hole has a little cut at the left side of the receiver.

Currently there is no factory "Russian" Saiga fcg that could buy to replace the old fcg to improve the trigger pull. If understand correctly with the 922 compliance, when you start to modify the fcg, muzzle brake, stock, pistol grip, ect... you have to play the 10 or less imported parts. The Saiga rifle has 14 imported parts. I heard you can polish the hammer on the stock fcg to improve the trigger pull. Please corretly if I'm wrong. Thanks.

Does anyone know the trigger pull on FCG from http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?prod...at=0&page=2 I have the FCG G2 from Tapco installed in my .223 Saiga and the spec said 3-4 pounds. I want to get the one from k-var for my 762, but want to get opinion from fellow members before I do it. Thanks.

Thanks dinzag and devin. I did not know dinzag makes all these parts. I'm a little tight on budget right now, but when funding available I will definitely get these parts from dinzag.

I need experts that already done the conversion on Saiga .223. I need to know the following questions......I know most people will say search the forum or google for answer. I'm at the point where I need to change the gas tube and put in lower handguard retainer and forend (1) Where I can buy the lower handguard retainer, forend and how toinstall it? does it fit on the Saiga? (2) Where I can buy upper handguard and gas tube? does it fit on the Saiga? (3) After I finished my .223 I plan to do the same for my 762. Does parts in question 1 and 2 is the same parts for 762? Thanks.

I finally got it done. You wouldn't believe how hard the spot weld is. I went through 3 cobalt drill bits .....I don't know what they use for spot weld. I know how to drill in different material with different drill bits, but the is the hardest thing I have ever drilled.

I'm still drilling and making some progress. Anyone know what the russianuse for spot weld. If anyone know the easiest way to drill the spot weld on the trigger guard, please let everyone know. I think this is the hardest part in doing conversion....Thanks.

I got everything out and I tried the same method as you did for separating the trigger guard from the plate. My problem is driilling the hole where the spot weld on the trigger guard. The spot weld is soooooooooooooo hard to drill, it won't give.

I'm doing the conversion and try to keep the old trigger gaurd. I ran into a problem with drilling the spot weld on the trigger guard but have failed with cobalt drill bit. I doesn't seem to go anywhere. Any help on how to drill through spot well will be appriciated. Thanks.

Tinkering and improving things is in our blood. If tinkering firearms is not in yours, than move on. I rarely do any firearms modification, but love to see those "beautiful pictures" for those who does....keep on tinkering.....

I have a 20" Saiga 762, 4 SKS made from different country and I would say the recoil is about the same but the Saiga is much better to handle and shoot....