Salmonaxe

I've got one of the mounts that clamp on with allen bolts, and in my opinion it's garbage. I recently used a kvar mount to put an aimpoint on my saiga .308 and it seemed to retain it very well. The big thing to remember is that these mounts clamp on and need to be adjusted accordingly... With my PSOP it takes a mallet to remove from my .308. There is nothing graceful about any part of the AK design...

I just noticed today that my saiga .308 after the conversion doesn't have a working safety anymore... I never use the safety on an AK, so it doesn't really affect me. (AK safety is a joke) After looking closely at the .308 Safety, I noticed that the tab that stops the trigger has been ground off. This is most likely a standard practice from to factory to fit the wonky trigger they use in the .308's. Seems pretty stupid to me... Now I have to get a new safety just to make my mind at ease. This is a common problem right? I think it would be nice if someone made a saiga .308 pr

KVar's stocks are well made. As for it being hollow, all Polymer AK stocks will be hollow. Kvars stocks are just as good as the actual com-block poly stocks(or better) and they feel solid to me.

I used a standard AK disconnect spring.... Why would you want to use the old one? To my knowledge, that tab on the back of the bolt carrier prevents the hammer from falling on the firing pin until it's fully into battery. Am I incorrect?

Well, I have a 16" .308 and one of my first groups with it was a little less than 3 MOA. That was good enough for me considering it's a semi auto rifle of com-blok design. Out of the box, I feel that the Saiga .308 has the worst trigger ever and a really crappy cheekweld. It's not the easiest rifle to get used to. After doing a conversion on it, it's much better, but I still haven't been able to test it's accuracy. It seemed to me, that when I shot it, it exhibited massive migration of Point of Impact as the barrel heated up. Seeing as how my shots lined up in a long vertical string..

I had one slightly closer pic, but it wouldn't upload... lemme try it now... Ummmmm.... nope, for some reason this thread officially hates me.... ( I can upload in other areas...)

I've been taking pics of my firearms, and I figured I'd share with the crowd.

Also the steel case on wolf is more prone to splitting, which screws up extraction... I've had more than one time where I was shooting wolf, had a failure, tried to do a clearing drill, and the case wouldn't extract without excessive force on the charging handle. Steel has a much harder time forming to the chamber, so if the case is a little out of spec, it has the possibility of not going fully into battery. Also, Wolf isn't that accurate... I only bought it because i was uber poor. It worked, but if you have a bit extra cash around, it's better to buy brass. I ussually get Feder

Converting the saiga .308 was just as much of an adventure as converting my Saiga 12. The biggest problem I had was that the Hammer needed even more modification than the saiga 12's hammer needed. It seems that the carrier and bolt run really low, so the profile of the face of the hammer is different than a standard AK... I sat there comparing both the factory and domestic US parts hammers and slowly ground the Domestic hammer to as close to the original hammer.... What a pain! Still I have a hard time getting the carrier in, but the gun cycles just fine and trigger/disconnect all functio

Thanks guys! Yeah, all the mags are the same size... it's just an optical illusion. Oh, here's a pic from a different angle to get a sense of the forend..... or maybe not..... the attachment thingy is being a butt to me.....

I did a little more pimping of my Saiga 12 recently and thought I'd share. I noticed in the .308 forum someone had used an FN FAL forend on a .308 and I thought I would try and see if it would fit the Saiga 12. It did! and it feels great! Also, the extra US part is a plus. I also cut some slots in the buttstock so as to affix a Krinkov rubber buttplate on a standard stock. (Normally, you can still slip the pad on, but this way it won't fall off.) I've got the aimpoint a bit high, but I'll see how comfortable it is when I get around to shooting it again. One thing to note, aimpoi

...and here's the last closeup.

hmmm... I bet there's a better way, but I'll put them up one at a time.... Please excuse my crappy images, I haven't got around to buying a real digital camera.

wonder if this works..... do I have to use image bucket or something to show images?

So, I was at the gunshow this weekend, and I picked up a saiga 5rd mag that has weird feed lips on it... They kinda curve down in the back and trap the rim of the shell. I tried cycling, and letting it slam home worked fine, but if you ride it just a little, the bolt hangs up on the cartridge.... I always let it slam home anyways, but it seemed like a wierd design to me. Is it some old thing that they got rid of? The Ishmash logo is smaller on this one. The guy who had it said he bought his saiga ages ago.... (like 5 years) So, anyone else have mags like this? Do they work alrigh

There are a bunch of different RSA FCG's to choose from on RSA's website! They're all different based off of caliber and model.... so, should I get the .308 Vepr one? or should I get a standard one? Is there one that requires the least amount of modification? Thanks for all the great info.

that's very similar to something I was thinking of doing.... This would look very cool with cuts in the forend like a dragunov, and a chote stock on a 22" BBL. Anyway, how did you affix the forend? Did it require a lot more than just simple reshaping of the plastic? It looks like a pin is used to hold the front portion on... did you have to buy that seperate? Also, Redstar Arms sells a AR buttstock adapter, does anyone know if it's good? -Thanks

Why use the old disconnector when that's a part you would have to replace? I'd feel a little weird using parts from different FCGs.... Or are you saying that most FCG's don't come with the disconnector spring and that's the old part you're using? Thanks a lot for the info! I'm going to check out you thread now.

So, I went out and picked up a Saiga .308 16" for $300 OTD. Went and shot it today at my local range that only allows for 1 round at a time (Those bastards!!! ) I had a PSOP 8X scope laying around, so I popped that on and zeroed it in. The best groups I got were around 3MOA shooting at 100yards. I was using some of that surplus AUS .308. I don't know how accurate that stuff is, but it seems that it was inconsistantly loaded to me. Some times I'd shoot a 5 round pack and it would be consistently high, and then my group would move down. I dunno, I bet it was just me, anticipating the re

Yeah, you'd have to add the latch and cut the hole for it. It's way forward on the receiver. I'm pretty sure that the latch is part of that folding stock kit. I don't know, but I think there might also be another latch at the rear. If you look at it, there's a round piece that indexes with a round cutout on the stock. I think there might be a pin that pops out of that, and holds the stock in place. It's probably not enough to retain the stock in the folded position though. I could be really wrong though, since I've never seen one of these up close in person. I actually wish tha

Really? I thought the whole point of sabots was that they had stablizing fins or something....? What would the be point of putting fins on something if it's already spinning. If the sabot sits inside a cup, does the rifling grab that plastic or something? I would think it would just tear it up. Is this the reason people were looking for paradox chokes? I've got an 19" Saiga 12 with the threaded barrel. I'm pretty sure it's open/no choke. I should be safe for sabots and just about anything else, right??

I've never bought from these guys, but they offer the folder that you see on the actual Saiga 12's. http://tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/akbstparts.html It would be a real project, because it would require a couple of additional holes in the reciever as well as the removal of the rear trunion.

So, kman0066, about how long did it take you to complete the project? Did you paint it as well? Since you kept the rear pin, you had to cut a notch in your buttstock, right? houtexgunner, what is the black engine paint that is usually used? (color/manufacturer) I just hit the bare metal on mine with some random flat black paint I had laying around, but it's wearing off a bit. So I might want to strip that stuff off and try something else. The original paint seems super tough to me. You said something about baking....? Would you heat the gun in the oven, paint it, then heat it again?

Hey, Bvamp. What's wrong with Sabots??? Do they damage the barrel or something? I've only shot rifled slugs, but I know that Jimtanker was wanting to shoot sabots....

Cesiumsponge, I don't think it was illegal to use preban mags in post ban weapons. You could choose 2 evil features, and one was the ability to accept a detachable magazine, which I would think included all capacities. I just think it was illegal for them to manufacture mags with a capacity higher then 10 for civilians, and it was illegal to use or own Hi-cap post ban(LEO) mags. Using Hi-caps in imported Sporting purposes firearms was, and still is illegal. That's why one of the companies out there imported single stack AK's and converted them over to double stacks with the correct num