JBONE

its set at 500 meters in the pic, just did that to raise it up so you could see it. JBONE

its welded on, though I still have to smooth it out and piant. I had to modify the site base cause it was to long. JBONE

Like this one, not done yet but it will work JBONE

I used a dremel cut off wheel to cut the tang, and then cleaned it up on my bench grinder. It is supposed to be flush with the rear of the reciever. The adapter slides underneath the rear trunion and the pistol grip nut hold it on the bottom, a screw hold it in the other stock hole that you dont hack off. The pistol grip is the SAW grip from Tapco. JBONE

Ak-105 built by ASD Firearms Mfg in Arizona. Gun is built on a pre 89 import Chinese reciever and is in 7.62x39. This one is ready to go, and brand new, test fired only. was $2300 sale price $1525!!! plus $15 shipping to the lower 48 That my friends is a good deal. This is the only one available at this price. Gun is a registered SBR so NFA rules do apply. thanks Jason rpk545@yahoo.com

Well here it is, just wanted to share, the new "tangless" adapter from ACE is one fine piece of engineering. Now I just need a front sight, and one of those nifty flash hiders, oh and some 8 round mags that dont cost $100+ Dollars JBONE

Pic sent to your email. thanks JBONE

Hey buddy check your email for a trade offer. JBONE

I agree, I would have interest in that configuration to. Any chance Tony? JBONE Oh never mind I see you have already filed the form 2's. It would still be cool to have one with the gas system moved back already but a long hider perm installed so I could SBS at my liesure. JBONE

yes the trigger guard is riveted on, the FCG is held in with axis pins. Have fun!! JBONE

Cheaper than Dirt has them for $1.97. aluminum excellent condition. I just bought 5. JBONE

You dont use rivits for the FCG, you use standard AKM axis pins. JBONE

basically the same. You will see what to do as soon as you pull the bottom trigger plate off. Its pretty self explanatory. You have to take the factory trigger parts out first though. JBONE

Yep your right, pressed in like an AKM. Remove barrel pin and either press it out or bang it out with a BRASS rod. JBONE

I used a regular punch for the barrel pin, they came out rather easily. Then I used a brass rod and carefuly whacked out the barrel. I would have pressed it out but I couldnt figure out how to get it in my press at the right angle. The brass is soft and it wont hurt the chamber area, just dont miss and whack the reciever. Once the barrel starts to move, the gas tube will just fall off, you will see. Let me know i you run into a jam JBONE

Yes you have to knock out the barrel pin and bang the barrel out. Its just pushed up against the gas block. I just had mine COMPLETLY apart. You can try knocking out the pins on the gas block and driving it foward but its hard to get a clean whack at it. Much easier after the barrel is out. It is pretty tight but it will come off. You dont even have to take the barrel all the way out, just move it enough to relive tension on the gas tube. I wish I woulda took a pic while I was doing it. Very interested in what you are trying to do also keep us updated. JBONE

just grind the weld down with a dremel wheel then put a thin bladed screwdriver under the trigger and give it a couple whacks should pop right off. JBONE

Correct me if Im wrong, but if you dont convert it to pistol grip configuration, then it is not considered non sporting, thus no US parts are nessessary. Correct? JBONE

Well the thing is I fired about 150 rounds after the pistol grip and FCG change and it worked 100%. I am going to pull it apart tommorow, I bet the gas hole is plugged. Everything moves freely, even when the hammer is cocked. The piston is installed. Its gotta be gas. I truley appreciate all the help from you guys. I will let you know what I come up with tommorow. JBONE

My gun worked flawless before conversion. Now after cutting the barrel down to 18" it wont eject on either gas setting. On "1" it wont cycle the bolt at all, have to manually eject it. On "2" it starts to eject but then gets slammed into the ass end of the barrel leaving the bolt halfway back. Hmmm, I think, needs more gas than "2" can offer. So I turned the adjustment screw further out back to the "1" setting, same dead head into the barrel. I then turned the gas plug all the way out and turned it back until it clicked in, thinking this is the most gas you could get out of it. Same thing, dea

GOB's method sounds good. I used a bandsaw, cut it short of my 18" line and then used a BIG flat file to bring it down. Still needs to be crowned, I am waiting for the full chock crowning tool to arrive from Brownells. JBONE

Cutting a 22" down to 18" will NOT make it cylinder bore. I cut mine down Exactly to 18" and my 12 cylinder crowning tool will not fit in the barrel. It still holds a VERY tight pattern, although it may not be "FULL" it is damn close. Just my experince. JBONE

Pointer, it is a standard AKM buttstock, made in the US of coarse. They are available from K-VAR and TAPCO just to name a few. I just happened to have it laying around from another AK build. Some filing may be required to fit the S12 but not muck. JBONE

here is a preliminary pic of the sights. The front is not attached permantly, yet. JBONE

I used a standard AKM rear sight assembly, only its been cut down to fit atop the rear gas block. Actually enough of the ramp remains it does elevate all the way like it should. I also had to modify the spring underneath by shortening it and welding it to the block. Works perfectly. I will use a standard AKM front assembly modified to fit the 12 G barrel, unless of coarse those real elevated front sites show up sometime here. I will post pics as I go through different stages of this project. JBONE