Conversion hangups

[mikeyali1776 0]

I recently bought a Saiga 308-1 and have begun my first conversion. I finally got the trigger group out of the weapon and am I trying to get the trigger guard off by drilling with a dremel tool on the rivets. I'm scared of warping the receiver by putting too much pressure on it. Besides, the spot welds and the rivets don't seem to want to loosen up one bit after I ground the rivet down to the trigger plate. Is there a better way of doing this?

 

Also when I looked at my weapon it seems as if the barrel is leaning a little left from the direction of the reciever. Is this a big deal or is it merely the price of owning a cheap AK? Last question then I'll shut up: can I use a RSA regular trigger along with the stock hammer and have it work? I've read all over the forums here and I can't get any trigger answers except for that $100 trigger they are hawking.

 

Mike

[texlurch 0]

I recently bought a Saiga 308-1 and have begun my first conversion. I finally got the trigger group out of the weapon and am I trying to get the trigger guard off by drilling with a dremel tool on the rivets. I'm scared of warping the receiver by putting too much pressure on it. Besides, the spot welds and the rivets don't seem to want to loosen up one bit after I ground the rivet down to the trigger plate. Is there a better way of doing this?

 

Also when I looked at my weapon it seems as if the barrel is leaning a little left from the direction of the reciever. Is this a big deal or is it merely the price of owning a cheap AK? Last question then I'll shut up: can I use a RSA regular trigger along with the stock hammer and have it work? I've read all over the forums here and I can't get any trigger answers except for that $100 trigger they are hawking.

 

Mike

 

If you have enough compliance parts you can use a G2 trigger. On the rivets, I mill or grind the head off, flush down to the trigger guard, then punch it out. On real stubborn ones, I drill thru with a smaller drill bit and it will usually push out with the bit.

 

So far as the barrel being canted, not much you can do about it, and it is not uncommon on AK's.

[dinzag 31]

I center-punch the rivets & spot weld. This is a key step, don't skip.

 

Then drill through with a 3/32 cobalt drill bit.

 

I then hit the rivets with a 1/4" or 5/32" masonry bit to remove the head & punch through.

 

I use a 3/16" masonry bit on the spot weld after drilling through with the cobalt to open it up. Drill slow with it (cobalt) & keep it from turning blue/purple. If it's sharp, it will go right through. Like in 10 - 15 seconds. Use WD-40 or a cutting fluid to help.

[mikeyali1776 0]

All right. Here's the deal: I pretty much have the conversion done. I didn't have any strange pistol grip nut so I just used a regular one pressed against a flat washer at an angle. It seems to work all right.

 

I find myself with but 3 issues. The first is that the safety will no longer engage. I guess I will just weld a piece onto the safety bar or something to make it work. The second is that the bolt will go in, but it takes a lot more force to push down the hammer to fit the bolt in. Finally, I have an extra spring that I assume goes to the bolt catch. I am stupid and do not remember how to put the spring in to make it work on the bolt catch.

 

Many thanks for all the info on the forum guys. I am not a highly knowledgeable gunsmith. I'm just a college kid that needed to set his Saiga up right because I can't afford an M1A. Pictures coming soon.

 

Mike

[greatmoose 4]

The safety problem is relatively common with G2 fcg's. There's a sticky at the top of this forum. I swapped my G2 for an RSA and the problem went away.

[doug01 3]

Does the new hammer match the old one in shape? You may have to grind more off of it. Or do like someone else here did and make a mag floor plate and use the original hammer.

[Vermiform 26]

Finally, I have an extra spring that I assume goes to the bolt catch. I am stupid and do not remember how to put the spring in to make it work on the bolt catch.

 

If you mean the spring for the bolt hold open (BHO), there used to be a cad diagram here that showed you, but the person that posted it used photobucket for image hosting and the picture is now gone. IF ANYONE HAS THIS, I WOULD LIKE TO SEE IT MYSELF, PLEASE UPLOAD IT.

 

Most people don't use the bolt hold open because after the conversion, it is in an awkward position next to the trigger. Some people cut a notch in the safety lever and use that as a BHO.

 

Safety BHO Notch

Edited October 28, 2006 by Vermiform